Builds 1977 Freeborn Red FJ40 Patina Build (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter Will Van
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Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #102
I also picked up this super-clean 1983 Toyota Hilux 4x4 short bed. I found it in Grand Junction, CO and should take delivery early next week. Separate build thread inbound.
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navydivedoc
SILVER Star
Great looking truck. Congrats!
joseywales
Renaissance Redneck
I’ve had a ‘77 40 in the red, as well as a ‘76 in both the green, and mustard color and a ‘74 in red. I’ve also had numerous BJ60s. A turbo 3B in a 60 with soa and 35s is like a sports car compared to a stock 3B on stock tires. That said, I’d stay the course with the injected 2F at this point. The sound of the six is damn cool,
and you already have it. I’m a huge diesel fan, but if you do ever get in the swap mode, staying Toyota is a big plus. There are quite a few sources for JDM parts here in western Canada. You may not have to go to Oz or Japan for everything.
Great 40, and congrats on the ‘83 Lux too.
and you already have it. I’m a huge diesel fan, but if you do ever get in the swap mode, staying Toyota is a big plus. There are quite a few sources for JDM parts here in western Canada. You may not have to go to Oz or Japan for everything.
Great 40, and congrats on the ‘83 Lux too.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #105
Thanks!
Yeah, I'm going to finish the Holley Sniper 2F install. The Hilux blew my diesel budget anyway!
I'm also not sure which Toyota diesel I would want to swap into the 40 anyway - 12HT, 1HZ, 1HD-T, or 1HD-FT. They all have their advantages. 12HT is probably the most plug-and-play. I don't see any huge advantage of a (turbo) 3B compared to the other Toyota diesels. Maybe availability?
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #106
Success!
I pre-drilled the Welch fitting until it almost broke through to the other side. Then vacuumed all the shavings. Then I used a punch and hammer to make a hole in the Welch fitting. After I had a pilot hole, I threaded in a machine screw. Once the machine screw was several threads deep, I pulled the whole assembly with a slide hammer attached to the head of the machine screw. Easy.
Still undecided on weather I want to drill/tap for 1/2” NPT, or just use another Welch fitting and install it correctly.
I pre-drilled the Welch fitting until it almost broke through to the other side. Then vacuumed all the shavings. Then I used a punch and hammer to make a hole in the Welch fitting. After I had a pilot hole, I threaded in a machine screw. Once the machine screw was several threads deep, I pulled the whole assembly with a slide hammer attached to the head of the machine screw. Easy.
Still undecided on weather I want to drill/tap for 1/2” NPT, or just use another Welch fitting and install it correctly.
joseywales
Renaissance Redneck
The 3B actually came in NA spec 40s, so to me that is a plus. I’d do a 1HD-FT if it were easy, but I’d bet it’s about as complex as it gets unless you go D4D.
And the white wheels with OME and BFG Muds was definitely the correct decision.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #108
Yessir, the 3B did actually come in the 40 series. But it requires an input shaft change on the H55F. And the 12HT does not. So at that point you’re already at a better and more powerful engine. If you’re going to swap the input shaft anyway, it just makes sense to go ahead and upgrade to the HZ or HD series.
And I agree that the 1HD-FT is more complex, but it’s still a mechanical fuel pump. It’s basically just a 24-valve 1HD-T.
I wouldn’t go for the FTE though. Electronically controlled diesels is where I draw the line.
Thanks about the wheels/tires! I’m really pleased with how it turned out!
12HT will be mint!
Well if that's an option then hells yes!!!
How did that work out for you
I have a HJ61 in the shop at the moment that came from them. The guy who bought it got maybe 1000 miles out of it before it blew up and I would say his dealings with them were less than impressive. Happy to put you in contact with him if you want to talk direct.
Now I am bias as I am not a fan of the 2F and I put a 3B's with Turbo in every land cruiser I own. I have a 40 here getting a 12HT at the moment and have worked on 1HZ and 1HDT and always come back to the 3B. There is just something about that little tough 4 Cylinder and the way it works and fits in a 40 that puts a smile on my face.
I have been getting the 3B and H55 Combo's from Canada and apart from the 60 series top plate of the H55 they are a sweet fit and certainly don't cause any value drops to the truck.
I think it comes down to what you want the truck to do and what you want from it. The 3B is certainly no power house but with a Turbo on it at 9 PSI it will never have any issues that I have see and has more low down torque than the 13BT
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #114
How did that work out for you
I have a HJ61 in the shop at the moment that came from them. The guy who bought it got maybe 1000 miles out of it before it blew up and I would say his dealings with them were less than impressive. Happy to put you in contact with him if you want to talk direct.
Now I am bias as I am not a fan of the 2F and I put a 3B's with Turbo in every land cruiser I own. I have a 40 here getting a 12HT at the moment and have worked on 1HZ and 1HDT and always come back to the 3B. There is just something about that little tough 4 Cylinder and the way it works and fits in a 40 that puts a smile on my face.
I have been getting the 3B and H55 Combo's from Canada and apart from the 60 series top plate of the H55 they are a sweet fit and certainly don't cause any value drops to the truck.
I think it comes down to what you want the truck to do and what you want from it. The 3B is certainly no power house but with a Turbo on it at 9 PSI it will never have any issues that I have see and has more low down torque than the 13BT
I’m going 1HZ using Crushers kit. Availability and simplicity were the deciding factors. They still manufacture the 1HZ and they turbo easily.
mudandrock
Back 40 Imports
Will, I’ve got a turbo kit all put together when you’re ready. Mud members get a $100 discount!
Toyota Diesel Hilux Trucks, Land Cruisers and Parts
back40imports.com
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #116
Will, I’ve got a turbo kit all put together when you’re ready. Mud members get a $100 discount!
Toyota Diesel Hilux Trucks, Land Cruisers and Parts
Yessir, that looks like a very nice kit!
I'm debating which exhaust manifold and turbo I want to use. Obviously a CT-26 turbo bolts directly to the 1HD-T exhaust manifold.
But they also make an adapter flange for the stock 1HZ manifold to run a T25 or T3 turbine inlet. The T25/T3 flange would open up a world of turbo options, and the adapter is inexpensive. Plus, I know I want to run a front mount intercooler, so I wouldn't use the crossover intake pipe.
mudandrock
Back 40 Imports
Just go easy on the boost, 8-10 psi is what the stock turbos push from factory. Being married to your gauges kinda gets old after awhile.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #118
My goal is 200 rwhp and 300 rwtq.
I've read quite a bit about turning up the boost on a 1HZ-Turbo. The problem is heat from turbine back-pressure and weak OEM 1HZ pistons that were never designed for turbo.
Engine Australia is about to release their custom High-Performance 1HZ turbo piston. The High Performance pistons are upgraded with thicker crowns that are oil-gallery-cooled, re-designed under-crown, relocated rings, and 33mm (1HD-T) gudgeon pins.
I'm hoping this will alleviate some of the reliability problems with boosting over 10psi.
I spoke with Engine Australia and the High Performance pistons will be available Spring 2020. I pulled this from their Facebook page from several months ago:
TOYOTA 1HZ AND 1HD-T PISTON DESIGN AND MANUFACTURE
Most small and medium size diesel engines use pistons manufactured by gravity die casting. Toyota started having some of its diesel pistons manufacturing by ART using the squeeze casting process in the early 1980s. Both gravity die cast and squeeze cast pistons were made from the same grade aluminium alloy – AC8A/336 or similar. The gravity-die cast pistons have Alfin/Ni-Resist top ring inserts, while the squeeze cast pistons use a 6% density alumina preform, both to reduce top ring groove wear. With the advent of high pressure common fuel rail engines, most O.E. pistons are made from a different grade alloy. Toyota stopped using squeeze cast pistons since the 1KD-FTE engines, meaning the 1HZ, 1HZ-T and 1HD-T/FT/FTE engines from Toyota (O.E.) are squeeze cast pistons. By the very nature of this casting process, squeeze cast pistons are a stronger piston than a gravity-die cast piston and it is physically impossible for the alumina preform to separate from the casting as it is 94% impregnated with the piston alloy. All Toyota squeeze cast pistons are manufactured by ART Pistons, meaning that if you buy a piston for these engines from Toyota, in the Toyota box, it is squeeze cast. If you buy pistons for these engines in the ART box, these are ART aftermarket pistons and they are gravity-die cast and most do not even have Alfin/Ni-Resist inserts. Almost all aftermarket pistons are gravity die cast. One Taiwanese piston manufacturer tried a very primitive squeeze cast 1HZ piston for a few years, but it was commercially unviable.
There are two designs of both the 1HZ and 1HD-T pistons – an early and a late version. All these four design pistons have been known to fail when the engines are ‘performanced’, and more of the later version pistons of both engines. These engines cannot be ‘performanced’ to the same extent as the Nissan TD42Ti engine, even though they are similar capacity and design engines – except the Toyota engines are OHC. The Nissan TD42Ti almost never break pistons, whether O.E or aftermarket - and both are gravity-die cast. The Toyota 1HZ and 1HD-T occasionally break pistons when ‘performanced’ – not so often with O.E. squeeze cast, but more frequent with aftermarket gravity-die cast. TD42T and 1HZ pistons made in the same factory, same piston alloy, same Alfin/Ni-Resist inserts, same heat treatment, machined in the same machine centres, same tolerances etc. – the 1HZ/1HD-T pistons occasionally fail, while TD42T/Ti almost never. Why?
Piston design! The Nissan piston has crown oil gallery cooling, the crown is thicker, and the rings are located further down the piston. The Toyota 1HZ pistons only fail if the engine has experienced an abnormal fuelling/combustion condition or it has been turbocharged and has excess boost and/or has experienced an abnormal fuelling/combustion condition. For both the 1HZ-T and 1HD-T engines, if the turbocharger boost is limited to 16 psi, the AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) is at 20:1 and post turbocharger EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) never exceeds 500°C, the 1HZ/T and 1HD-T will usually not break pistons. It is important that there is little or no back-pressure in the exhaust manifold. Many of the turbochargers being fitted or modified are creating significant exhaust manifold back-pressure, which causes increased combustion chamber temperatures and pressures. These engines benefit greatly from a good inter-cooler and an external, thermostatically controlled, oil cooler. When these pistons fail, they always have a significant loss of piston crown hardness (an indication of excess combustion chamber temperature – do not confuse this with engine overheating) and often have extreme crown and ring land carbon deposits.
At Engine Australia, we have designed an oil gallery cooled, thicker crown, re-designed under-crown and relocated rings version of the 1HZ-T piston that is in testing. Assuming it goes into production, it will have an anodised and ceramic coated crown, and Moly-Teflon coated skirts - as do all our performance pistons. This piston has the 33 mm gudgeon pin, the longer compression height and uses the shorter and stronger 1HD-T conrod. If successful we will carry the design on to the 1HD-T piston. We will advise more on this as we progress the testing.
FJBen
SILVER Star
That will scream in a 40 series.
From all I've read, you will need 20+psi boost, upgraded turbo, upgraded pump 11mm and an intercooler to get into that territory.
Those upgraded pistons sound pretty promising, but you also might be the guinea pig
I"m at 11psi on mine, feels pretty good but I will probably go up to 15 and call it good with a stock CT26.
