Build 1977 Freeborn Red FJ40 Patina Build

[Will Van]

That will scream in a 40 series.
From all I've read, you will need 20+psi boost, upgraded turbo, upgraded pump 11mm and an intercooler to get into that territory.
Those upgraded pistons sound pretty promising, but you also might be the guinea pig

I’m at 11psi on mine, feels pretty good but I will probably go up to 15 and call it good with a stock CT26.

The stock 1HZ makes 130 hp and 200 lb-ft of torque. How much power and torque are you making at the wheels at 10psi?

 

[FJBen]

The stock 1HZ makes 130 hp and 200 lb-ft of torque. How much power and torque are you making at the wheels at 10psi?

Thats 130HP crank, to the wheels you are looking 90ish hp. Are you talking 200 to the crank?

The 13BT makes 120HP crank @ 7psi I believe was Toyota's official output. someone on here dyno'd there 13BT ~12psi in an FJ40 and got 98 wheel hp seems about right. I'd believe mine is similar.

They are 2 difference engines, displacement and the 13BT is Direct Injected so not an apples to apples comparison, but it will take a few mods to get the 1HZ to 200 rwhp.

 

[Will Van]

Need a little help on my 2F reseal. The previous owner over-tightened the cam/crank gear oiler and it was preventing the timing backing plate from sealing to the front of the block. I backed it out and cleaned up the threads when I resealed the backing plate. But now it's time to reinstall. Obviously I don't want to over-torque it and run the back of the oiler in to the front face of the block. So I just used blue medium-strength thread-locker and engaged it several threads. Is this sufficient to keep the oiler in place?

 

[Will Van]

Thats 130HP crank, to the wheels you are looking 90ish hp. Are you talking 200 to the crank?

The 13BT makes 120HP crank @ 7psi I believe was Toyota's official output. someone on here dyno'd there 13BT ~12psi in an FJ40 and got 98 wheel hp seems about right. I'd believe mine is similar.

They are 2 difference engines, displacement and the 13BT is Direct Injected so not an apples to apples comparison, but it will take a few mods to get the 1HZ to 200 rwhp.

Correct, the 1HZ makes 130hp and 200 lb-ft of torque at the crank. Perhaps 200 rwhp and 300 rwtq is ambitious. I'm basically trying to add 100 hp and 100 tq with a turbo. But that may be too much anyway for the 40 series chassis.

And it actually may make more sense to bite the bullet on a 1HD-T. How difficult is it to service the injectors and pump in the USA? Can you get parts for the 1HD-T?

 

[FJBen]

Correct, the 1HZ makes 130hp and 200 lb-ft of torque at the crank. Perhaps 200 rwhp and 300 rwtq is ambitious. I'm basically trying to add 100 hp and 100 tq with a turbo. But that may be too much anyway for the 40 series chassis.

And it actually may make more sense to bite the bullet on a 1HD-T. How difficult is it to service the injectors and pump in the USA? Can you get parts for the 1HD-T?

200 rwhp is a little ambitious but doable. I think a 1HZ-T would be great for an FJ40. Slap a turbo on, intercool, roll 10-12psi and that will be scooting right along and net you decent fuel mileage. I would worry about the 40 series and power. People put big blocks, 400hp LS. I had a built fuel injected 350 in a 40 and could sling my 37's around like nothing.

I think the 1HZ may still be the best option for a Toyota diesel. It has the best parts availability by far and is pretty reliable even when mildly built. Easier to to source. A 1HZ-T would be plenty in a 40. A 1HD-T while Direct Injection will be a more powerful motor stock vs. stock 1HD-T's are getting much harder to find as they weren't around that long, which means who knows the mileage/usage on them. I don't know off the top of my head parts availability on the 1HD-T, but definitely not as good as the 1HZ.

Some perspective: My BJ74 is pretty similar in size/etc to an FJ40. An FJ40 weighs ~3800lbs with a hard top stock, . My BJ74 on 33's and bumpers is 4600lbs. My 0-60 is 17 seconds on 9 psi, slightly above factory psi. Thats 33's, shifting a clunky granny gear H55F and 120HP. My bet is an FJ40 with a 1HZ-turbo would be plenty quick and powerful enough.


As for injectors/pump, the can all be rebuilt easily by people here in the US. I like and use Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Portland. Welcome to DFISPDX.com Lots of mud people use them, they are reasonable, fast and very knowledgeable.

 

[Will Van]

As for injectors/pump, the can all be rebuilt easily by people here in the US. I like and use Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Portland. Welcome to DFISPDX.com Lots of mud people use them, they are reasonable, fast and very knowledgeable.

They can rebuild injectors and pump on a 1HD-T? Or just a 1HZ injectors and pump?

 

[FJBen]

They can rebuild injectors and pump on a 1HD-T? Or just a 1HZ injectors and pump?

Both, nothing special in the 1HD-T pumps. They are for all intents/purposes a Bosch VE pump. You can also swap the 1HD-T for a 1HD-FT for a little more performance.

 

[Will Van]

Both, nothing special in the 1HD-T pumps. They are for all intents/purposes a Bosch VE pump. You can also swap the 1HD-T for a 1HD-FT for a little more performance.

Excellent intel. Thank you!

 

[Will Van]

Anybody know the specs on this OEM alternator bracket bolt?

M10 x 1.25?

 

[Will Van]

I got the 2F back in the truck.

 

[Will Van]

I got the 5-speed mounted.

 

[Will Van]

I finally got a chance to work on the Land Cruiser this weekend.

I think I mentioned earlier in the thread that I am converting to an H55F 5-speed and twin-stick split case from Georg at Valley Hybrids. I was dreading trying to get the trans cover, twin-sticks, and shifters all mounted.

I was able to bend the twin-sticks in a vice to get them to work in the OEM t-case hole. This was a major PITA. It took about a million tries of: pull the pivot point off the trans, bend the stick(s) a little, reinstall, make a mark, repeat. I was able to get the t-case sticks pointed to the driver, and they shift into all positions without touching the trans tunnel. It may take a bit more tweaking once I bolt the trans tunnel in place, but I've got some room to play with on the threads of the shifter linkages.

Then I used a 5" arbor saw to cut a hole in the trans tunnel for the H55F top plate. It cleared like a charm.

My next project is to figure out the shifter boots/rings for the H55F top plate and twin sticks. I'd like to use the old shift rings with different boots, but haven't figured it out yet. I think I can make the supplied twin-stick boot work with the OEM shift ring. For the H55F, I know some people just convert to the 60 series cover plate. I may weld closed the old 4-speed shift hole, so then I could use an aftermarket universal shift boot/ring. Suggestions welcome.

 

[Will Van]

I carved out an hour this morning to work on the Cruiser. I was going to have a custom leather boot made for the twin-sticks, but I decided, "What the hell? I have a rubber boot that came with the kit. Maybe I can make that work for zero dollars."

Here is the result. I think it turned out well. Everything shifts without interference. I just trimmed the rubber boot that came with Georg's kit to work with the OEM trim rings.

I still need to create a solution for the H55F transmission shifter hole/boot. The original 4-speed trim ring and boot is too small. But I think I have a solution that will work well. Plus, I need to go ahead and modify the driveshafts.


Stay tuned.

 

[Honger]

I carved out an hour this morning to work on the Cruiser. I was going to have a custom leather boot made for the twin-sticks, but I decided, "What the hell? I have a rubber boot that came with the kit. Maybe I can make that work for zero dollars."

Here is the result. I think it turned out well. Everything shifts without interference. I just trimmed the rubber boot that came with Georg's kit to work with the OEM trim rings.

I still need to create a solution for the H55F transmission shifter hole/boot. The original 4-speed trim ring and boot is too small. But I think I have a solution that will work well. Plus, time to go ahead and modify the driveshafts.


Stay tuned.

Nice and clean!

 

[Will Van]

Also, just for fun-sies, here is a theoretical exercise.

I have the H55F 5-speed transmission...

Toyota Split Case with 4:1 low gears...

...and 4.56 diff gears (with ARB lockers).

How much torque do you think the 2F makes at idle at the wheels? 50 ft-lbs?

H55F 1st Gear = 4.8423:1
Split Case Low Range = 4.0:1
Diff Gears = 4.56:1

Final Drive = 88:1

88 x 50 ft-lbs = 4,400 lb-ft of torque to the wheels at idle!!!

Do you think 50 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels at idle is an overestimation? How much torque do you think the truck makes to the wheels at idle? Obviously I'm picking up a little bit of overdrive with the 33" BFG mud terrains. And there has to be some drivetrain loss.

 

[pb4ugo]

I don't know about torq, but I can tell ya, at low crawl I'm at 84.6 to 1, 350sbc, 4 wheel disc brakes, and 35" boggers, at idle I can't stall or stop it.

 

[Will Van]

I don't know about torq, but I can tell ya, at low crawl I'm at 84.6 to 1, 350sbc, and 4 wheel disc brakes, at idle I can't stall or stop it.

Haha! A 350 SBC is a different animal! Cool setup though!!!

 

[Will Van]

For reference, here is a YouTube video of a 40 series with a 4:1 Orion case and 4.88 diff gears. He still has the H42 trans and 37" tires, so final drive will actually be a little higher than my setup. Plus, he has the original F engine.



H42 1st Gear = 3.555:1
Orion Low T-Case = 4.0:1
Diff Gears = 4.88:1

Final Drive = 69:1

My truck is going to CRAWL!

 

[chubbybunny]

Which washers/size did you end up using for the headers/intake? Am dealing with the same issue now, and will send mine off to machine shop to create larger surface area on my intake bolt head surfaces.

 

[Will Van]

Which washers/size did you end up using for the headers/intake? Am dealing with the same issue now, and will send mine off to machine shop to create larger surface area on my intake bolt head surfaces.

I used these bolts and washers. I believe I had to reuse some of the old OEM bolts because ARP didn't have them in the correct size/thread pitch.

1. ARP 200-8752 (washers)
2. ARP 663-1002 (M10 x 1.25 bolts 25 mm long)