pb4ugo
SILVER Star
The numbers are OK. I'm surprised how #3 looks like compared to the others. I would suggest doing a wet compression test too, so you can isolate where the problem might be.
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Green Bean
SILVER Star
Fuel tank works.
I used the seafoam spray, after driving around a while with a vacuum leak and getting a bunch of carbon built up inside just about everything. It helped...
The spray, pull the air filter and spray down into the carburetor while it's running, giving it a little throttle to keep it running while spraying continuously. Then shut it off, leaving some spray in the engine sit for 10 to 15 minutes. And start it back up...
I had a sticky layer of black carbon all over, even inside the carburetor, it removed some of it. And was having issues with the throttle sticking, had added an extra spring to try and fix that a couple days earlier and after the seafoam it doesn't stick anymore. I haven't checked or replaced my plugs yet, was considering a second treatment before replacing (before and after might be interesting...).
1oz per gallon of gas in the tank, maybe, continually over years might help eventually, but spraying a whole can (the spray version) down the carburetor is much more direct and instant.
The spray, pull the air filter and spray down into the carburetor while it's running, giving it a little throttle to keep it running while spraying continuously. Then shut it off, leaving some spray in the engine sit for 10 to 15 minutes. And start it back up...
I had a sticky layer of black carbon all over, even inside the carburetor, it removed some of it. And was having issues with the throttle sticking, had added an extra spring to try and fix that a couple days earlier and after the seafoam it doesn't stick anymore. I haven't checked or replaced my plugs yet, was considering a second treatment before replacing (before and after might be interesting...).
1oz per gallon of gas in the tank, maybe, continually over years might help eventually, but spraying a whole can (the spray version) down the carburetor is much more direct and instant.
- Thread starter
- #24
Updated compression test Dry & Wet. Numbers are all less than 10%. Still smoking - grey smoke. Next will be doing a valve adjustment but I'm thinking valve seals may be shot? Numbers are indicating the rings are good (I think). Also found a little leak in the head - right where the "plug" is. does not look like it was repaired correctly. I will be attempting to clean that out, drill, tap and put in a set screw of some type. Alot of searches on the forums (especially the FAQ's) have really pointed me in the right direction - I hope. Any thoughts or insight would be greatly appreciated.
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- #25
So I started Lil Red up today to see if my galley plug fix worked (all good) and decided to try out my new borescope i bought. Removed one of the plugs and scoped the cylinder (motor was still warm but off for a couple minutes). At this time I observed oil running down the cylinder wall. Would that be indicative of worn rings or worn valve seals? Compression tests are noted in an earlier post and appear to be decent. Hooked up vacuum gauge and vacuum held pretty steady between 16 and 17. Any thoughts?
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- #28
Been a while since I posted. Lil Red is running with an engine rebuild by Hauser Machine out of Garner, NC (had to give them a shout out - did a great job). Been driving her a few times a week and she is a runner. The weather is still nice down here so the top will stay off for a while. BUT decided to tackle rotted rear sill today. Dirty job but it’s all out. Hopefully start some other metal work (lower rear quarters and still deciding if we want to fix the rear wheel arches or just put the flares back on). This thing is too fun to drive - don’t like it resting too long.
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- #29
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- #31
cold weather gives me more time in the garage. installed the tach on the column (small sunpro supertach II). also started fabbing up the rear fender flares using some marine grade corecell. hopefully this week the flares will be fiberglassed up and then installed utilizing some stainless hardware and some 5200. completely experimental and probably not gonna be liked by many BUT oh well. (wheelwells are completetly hacked up from the old black flares.) yes, i do have the wheelwell arch panels to weld in and replace. just thought i would try something different as a simple solution to cover up the hacked wheelwells & provide more wheel / tire clearance. the corecell is 3/4" thick so that may provide some protection from road debris kicking up on the panels if running slightly wider tires.
Those look fantastic. I need to get a set of those.
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- #34
I actually have another set that I cut and routed out, just haven’t fiberglassed and gel coated them. I have to wait till I finish the shed before I can finish the next pair, the wife did not appreciate the smell of resin and gelcoat lingering in the garage for a week. Once I’m done, I may put them up for sale to see if someone would like to try something different for flares.
I will buy them without question. Just message me.
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- #36
Will do
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- #37
moving along with Lil Red. got the rear rattle canned up and the flares painted and installed. perhaps in the future the "real paint & body work" will be done but for now, got to get her back on the road.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I’m digging the flares and they don’t look half bad color matched too. Good job.
- Thread starter
- #39
Thank you, I appreciate that. It's not everyone's cup of tea, but I don't really care as I am a coffee drinker (sorry, I had too). And doing things yourself is actually quite satisfying.
Those ended up perfect.
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