Subscribed... Very nice looking solution! You're a little ahead of me, my transmission is still in the box and the t-case is in pieces in a bin.
Build 1977 Freeborn Red FJ40 Patina Build
- Thread starter Will Van
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
Your results should be similar. You have smaller tires and a little steeper crawl ratio. On technical stuff I can let it idle and put 1 foot on the brake and use the clutch to move or stop. If you have to stop, push the clutch and you won't roll back.
- Thread starter
- #144
I have a really steep hill on some lake property we own. I would like to be able to crawl up and down it at idle. I think this setup will work quite well!
- Thread starter
- #145
I purchased a JT Outfitters rear single tube bumper several months ago.
Here it is mounted on another truck.
I'm converting it into an air tank for the ARB compressor.
I finally got it over to the welder/fabricator to cap the ends and weld NPT bungs for the various inlets/outlets and fittings.
I threw some black paint on it to keep it from rusting. Eventually I'll powder-coat it silver to match the front bumper. But I want to confirm that it's air-tight first.
Here it is mounted on the truck.
I mounted Wits' End brass quick couplers w/ brass pacifiers on both the driver's side and passenger's side of the truck. They're nice and protected between the bumper and the body of the truck. Plus, they're not very obvious unless you're looking for them.
I still need to purchase a couple fittings to plumb the air inlet and pressure-gauge in the cab.
Here it is mounted on another truck.
I'm converting it into an air tank for the ARB compressor.
I finally got it over to the welder/fabricator to cap the ends and weld NPT bungs for the various inlets/outlets and fittings.
I threw some black paint on it to keep it from rusting. Eventually I'll powder-coat it silver to match the front bumper. But I want to confirm that it's air-tight first.
Here it is mounted on the truck.
I mounted Wits' End brass quick couplers w/ brass pacifiers on both the driver's side and passenger's side of the truck. They're nice and protected between the bumper and the body of the truck. Plus, they're not very obvious unless you're looking for them.
I still need to purchase a couple fittings to plumb the air inlet and pressure-gauge in the cab.
- Thread starter
- #146
Does anyone make a "4WD" indicator for this light blank?
Similar to this, but "4WD" instead of "EGR".
Also, I need a replacement fastener for the backside. I think something spilled and sat for 10 years on the driver's side dash. The whole area is rusty.
Similar to this, but "4WD" instead of "EGR".
Also, I need a replacement fastener for the backside. I think something spilled and sat for 10 years on the driver's side dash. The whole area is rusty.
I purchased a JT Outfitters rear single tube bumper several months ago.
Here it is mounted on another truck.
I'm converting it into an air tank for the ARB compressor.
I finally got it over to the welder/fabricator to cap the ends and weld NPT bungs for the various inlets/outlets and fittings.
I threw some black paint on it to keep it from rusting. Eventually I'll powder-coat it silver to match the front bumper. But I want to confirm that it's air-tight first.
Here it is mounted on the truck.
I mounted Wits' End brass quick couplers w/ brass pacifiers on both the driver's side and passenger's side of the truck. They're nice and protected between the bumper and the body of the truck. Plus, they're not very obvious unless you're looking for them.
I still need to purchase a couple fittings to plumb the air inlet and pressure-gauge in the cab.
Add a couple venturis to that bumper and you can use it as a JATO bottle for easy on-ramp acceleration!
- Thread starter
- #148
Does anyone make a "4WD" indicator for this light blank?
Similar to this, but "4WD" instead of "EGR".
Also, I need a replacement fastener for the backside. I think something spilled and sat for 10 years on the driver's side dash. The whole area is rusty.
Also, maybe try to find someone local to you with a laser and bribe them with beer to engrave "4WD" to that blank lens. Then, paint the lettering to match?
- Thread starter
- #150
- Thread starter
- #151
Is the 70 series rear axle the same width as the 40? I’m ok with changing the leaf spring perches, but I don’t really want to widen the track.
Also, I’m satisfied with the t-case mounted parking brake. Does that complicate the brakes/hubs on the 70 axle? Will my OEM 40 rear parking drums swap over? Or should I do rear discs?
I used a BJ70 FF axle in mine. Just had to move the perches a little bit. Otherwise the track width is the same as a 40-Series.
- Thread starter
- #153
What about the brakes? Does it swap over?
Which brakes? The rears? They are the brakes from the BJ70.
- Thread starter
- #155
Dakota Digital installed.
Holley Sniper wired up and fuel tank/lines plumbed.
I need to fill the truck with coolant, set up the Dakota Digital, and set up the Sniper before I try to fire it up.
I also need to figure out what to do with the valve cover breather and side cover breather.
Holley Sniper wired up and fuel tank/lines plumbed.
I need to fill the truck with coolant, set up the Dakota Digital, and set up the Sniper before I try to fire it up.
I also need to figure out what to do with the valve cover breather and side cover breather.
- Thread starter
- #156
Can I vent this PCV valve to atmosphere (with a filter)? Or will it spray oil everywhere?
There’s a port on the sniper that you can use.Can I vent this PCV valve to atmosphere (with a filter)? Or will it spray oil everywhere?
Maybe not "everywhere", but it will produce oil vapor that will condense in your engine bay.
- Thread starter
- #159
Well guys, I'm pretty disappointed. Like most people, working on my FJ40 is not my full time job. To save a little bit of time, I hired someone to assemble my braided fuel lines and hose ends. Unfortunately, they did not do a very good job. Last night when I primed the fuel pump, fuel was leaking EVERYWHERE! Most of the junctions for the hose ends were not installed correctly. I tried tightening up all of the connections, but ultimately decided to pull all of the lines and start over from scratch. I'm going to re-plumb it myself.
At least this way I know it will be done correctly.
I also noticed that fuel was leaking from my new tank at the drain plug. After I drain the fuel, I'm going to clean up the threads and install a fresh crush washer. Maybe even add some fuel-safe thread sealant.
I'm not sure how I am going to route the fuel lines this time. I have already contacted @FJ60Cam about his Sniper hardline kit.
It would be nice to get the fuel lines on the passenger side of the truck, away from the exhaust. But that side of the truck is already really cluttered with the ARB compressor, Blue Sea fuse box, wiring, and other miscellaneous items.
At least my valve cover turned out nice.
At least this way I know it will be done correctly.
I also noticed that fuel was leaking from my new tank at the drain plug. After I drain the fuel, I'm going to clean up the threads and install a fresh crush washer. Maybe even add some fuel-safe thread sealant.
I'm not sure how I am going to route the fuel lines this time. I have already contacted @FJ60Cam about his Sniper hardline kit.
It would be nice to get the fuel lines on the passenger side of the truck, away from the exhaust. But that side of the truck is already really cluttered with the ARB compressor, Blue Sea fuse box, wiring, and other miscellaneous items.
At least my valve cover turned out nice.
That looks super clean!