ERNRAM
SILVER Star
Builds 1977 Freeborn Red FJ40 Patina Build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Will Van
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Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #82
The problem I am currently trying to solve is that the OEM washers are not large enough in diameter. The fasteners on the 2F head clamp both the exhaust manifold flange and the intake manifold flange at the same time. Because the aftermarket exhaust header flange is a slightly different dimension than the OEM exhaust manifold, the washers are not large enough to grab both the exhaust flange and the intake flange.
This photo should be illustrative.
You can see that the M12 bolt/washer (circled in red) is getting full purchase on the intake manifold flange, but almost no purchase on the exhaust manifold flange. And the M10 bolt (circled in blue) is getting almost no purchase on the exhaust flange at all. Unfortunately if you shift the intake/exhaust around to try to gain purchase at this particular location, there is no purchase at other fastener locations.
I have already ordered oversized washers from ARP. Hopefully they are large enough to gain good purchase on both the intake/exhaust flanges (at all locations) without additional machining. Otherwise I'll have to take the whole setup back to my machinist for more work.
All of this is to say that the Nord-Lock washers are badass, but I don't think they would solve the particular problem that I'm working on now.
Thanks!
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You can always do hand-made custom washers. I do it every now and then. For the one in the red circle I’d start with a nice thick fender washer. Grind it down to the size & shape you need. If you can’t find a good size washer to start with, cut some slugs with a hole saw. Maybe an 1-1/4 hole saw into some 3/32” or 1/8” plate. Stainless would be nice. Drill out the 1/4” pilot hole for the M10 stud then start shaping. Put the slug in some vise grips and take it to a bench grinder. Making templates out of thin cardboard can help if you can’t just eyeball it. It can be time consuming and I wouldn’t want to pay machinists time for it, but it can be done with some time and minimal tools. McMaster-Carr is a good source for washers when you need all the dimensions like OD, ID and thickness.
ERNRAM
SILVER Star
Large diameter Nordlock M10 washerThe problem I am currently trying to solve is that the OEM washers are not large enough in diameter. The fasteners on the 2F head clamp both the exhaust manifold flange and the intake manifold flange at the same time. Because the aftermarket exhaust header flange is a slightly different dimension than the OEM exhaust manifold, the washers are not large enough to grab both the exhaust flange and the intake flange.
This photo should be illustrative.
You can see that the M12 bolt/washer (circled in red) is getting full purchase on the intake manifold flange, but almost no purchase on the exhaust manifold flange. And the M10 bolt (circled in blue) is getting almost no purchase on the exhaust flange at all. Unfortunately if you shift the intake/exhaust around to try to gain purchase at this particular location, there is no purchase at other fastener locations.
I have already ordered oversized washers from ARP. Hopefully they are large enough to gain good purchase on both the intake/exhaust flanges (at all locations) without additional machining. Otherwise I'll have to take the whole setup back to my machinist for more work.
All of this is to say that the Nord-Lock washers are badass, but I don't think they would solve the particular problem that I'm working on now.
Thanks!
ERNRAM
SILVER Star
New Factory FJ60 exhaust studs and nuts.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #88
Well, my mockup head from Classic Cruisers was delivered yesterday. This morning I dropped off the head, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, and all the fasteners to my machinist. He is going to enlarge the reliefs on the intake and exhaust flanges so the washers will fully seat.
Plus, I'm going to have him drill and tap the intake manifold vacuum ports to convert them to NPT. And remove the steel "Tri-Mil" label tacked onto the exhaust manifold so that I can have it ceramic coated.
In the meantime I'm pulling the motor for reseal, grinding the OEM bell-housing to accommodate the H55, and getting other random projects ironed out (plumbing air lines for lockers, upgrading wiring, powder-coat, etc).
I'd like to repaint the motor while I have it out of the truck, but since I'm only resealing (not rebuilding), how should I prep for paint? Just mask everything off and de-grease? Then primer and paint?
Plus, I'm going to have him drill and tap the intake manifold vacuum ports to convert them to NPT. And remove the steel "Tri-Mil" label tacked onto the exhaust manifold so that I can have it ceramic coated.
In the meantime I'm pulling the motor for reseal, grinding the OEM bell-housing to accommodate the H55, and getting other random projects ironed out (plumbing air lines for lockers, upgrading wiring, powder-coat, etc).
I'd like to repaint the motor while I have it out of the truck, but since I'm only resealing (not rebuilding), how should I prep for paint? Just mask everything off and de-grease? Then primer and paint?
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FJBen
SILVER Star
Nice work.
Awhile ago, I pulled an engine to redo a few seals on it. I completely degreased the engine, cleaned it, primed then painted with engine enamel. Seemed to hold up pretty good. If you have access to a Hotsy or hot pressure washer, those work fantastic for cleaning up stuff, obviously don't pressure wash into dizzy and things like that.
One engine I used engine clear coat, the other I didn't. I much prefer to NOT use clear coat, unless someone has a better brand they liked. POR15 and Eastman get good reviews for engine enamel.
Awhile ago, I pulled an engine to redo a few seals on it. I completely degreased the engine, cleaned it, primed then painted with engine enamel. Seemed to hold up pretty good. If you have access to a Hotsy or hot pressure washer, those work fantastic for cleaning up stuff, obviously don't pressure wash into dizzy and things like that.
One engine I used engine clear coat, the other I didn't. I much prefer to NOT use clear coat, unless someone has a better brand they liked. POR15 and Eastman get good reviews for engine enamel.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #90
I was able to wrench on the Cruiser yesterday afternoon and today. Mostly just cleaning up the garage and organizing parts. Plus some small mockup and layout stuff. I figured out the routing for the ARB locker airlines and installed the solenoids on the ARB locker manifold. I realized I need a few more fittings and lines to run to the rear bumper air tank, so I placed a quick order with @NLXTACY at Wits' End.
I was also able to fill both diffs with gear oil, and mockup the interior locker switch-panel and gauge. I'm not crazy about how the right side of the panel abuts the glove box door, but I guess that's how the OEM ash tray was.
More work tomorrow on routing the air lines from the lockers to the manifold. Then try to reposition the vehicle and pull the motor for reseal.
I was also able to fill both diffs with gear oil, and mockup the interior locker switch-panel and gauge. I'm not crazy about how the right side of the panel abuts the glove box door, but I guess that's how the OEM ash tray was.
More work tomorrow on routing the air lines from the lockers to the manifold. Then try to reposition the vehicle and pull the motor for reseal.
navydivedoc
SILVER Star
Nice work. I think the panel looks good.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #93
Ok, so I'm still waiting on my engine stand from Summit so that I can pull the 2F and reseal it. But while I was waiting I started researching Toyota diesel engines. Right now I'm vacillating between putting the 2F back in, or swapping to diesel while I have the motor out. I'm looking at the 12HT and the 3B (w/ an aftermarket turbo kit from @Diesel42).
What do you guys think? Both diesels have advantages and disadvantages.
The 12HT is more powerful and refined. Plus, if you can find 2H motor mounts, it should drop right in to the existing engine mounts on my '77 frame. And it would mate right up to my new H55F transmission without swapping the input shaft.
The downside is that the motors are hard to find. And finding replacement parts for them is difficult because they all come from Australia or Japan.
The 3B has several advantages in that they are much more common. And since they were available in North America you can get replacement parts for them. Plus, with an aftermarket turbo, they make plenty of power.
The downside is I would have to swap my input shaft on my H55F, fabricate some engine mounts, and buy a turbo kit.
What do you guys think? Do you prefer the 12HT or the 3B (turbo'd)? Why?
Which is more reliable? The 12HT or the turbo'd 3B?
What do you guys think? Both diesels have advantages and disadvantages.
The 12HT is more powerful and refined. Plus, if you can find 2H motor mounts, it should drop right in to the existing engine mounts on my '77 frame. And it would mate right up to my new H55F transmission without swapping the input shaft.
The downside is that the motors are hard to find. And finding replacement parts for them is difficult because they all come from Australia or Japan.
The 3B has several advantages in that they are much more common. And since they were available in North America you can get replacement parts for them. Plus, with an aftermarket turbo, they make plenty of power.
The downside is I would have to swap my input shaft on my H55F, fabricate some engine mounts, and buy a turbo kit.
What do you guys think? Do you prefer the 12HT or the 3B (turbo'd)? Why?
Which is more reliable? The 12HT or the turbo'd 3B?
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FJBen
SILVER Star
I kinda replied on the for sale thread.
More reliable given same maintenance. 12HT. Direct Injected, turbo'd from factory, more available power stock and easier to turn up, (which you will want to do...trust me)
The 3B wasn't intended to be turbo'd, is indirect injected, pre-cup issues, less power to begin with.
I have a 13BT (factory turbo'd 3B, basically 2 cylinder less 12HT) and I rebuilt it this year. (Previous Owner blew cooling hose, then head gasket overheating) I didn't run into a situation on the rebuild (300K miles) that I couldn't find a part for that I NEEDED or couldn't make. However, if I needed a head, or cam or crank or block, it had to be used out of australia or Japan. Getting parts from Australia isn't hard at all, at least wasn't for me although I didn't order and "big ticket" used parts. The machine shop had to make 2 freeze plugs, although I may have not ordered them and thats pretty minor. Crank and cam were in excellent shape along with block and only needed polished and the cam a slight grind.
Without knowing 100%, the 12HT will probably be very similar although full rebuilds and aftermarket parts are available from Australia from a few sources along with OEM. Lots of vendors here on mud have lines on parts for both engines, and many online places: partsouq.com amayama.com etc can get you parts in a few days from overseas cheaply.
I was happy with my BJ74 and 13BT stock. I've since turned the boost from 7psi(oem) to 11psi now and still have the desire to turn the fuel up and boost up to 15. It feels great for a few weeks, then you are like, I could use some more power
Of course there are other options for Toyota diesel that come with pros/cons and $$$.
As I put in the other thread, the 12HT sounds awesome.
More reliable given same maintenance. 12HT. Direct Injected, turbo'd from factory, more available power stock and easier to turn up, (which you will want to do...trust me)
The 3B wasn't intended to be turbo'd, is indirect injected, pre-cup issues, less power to begin with.
I have a 13BT (factory turbo'd 3B, basically 2 cylinder less 12HT) and I rebuilt it this year. (Previous Owner blew cooling hose, then head gasket overheating) I didn't run into a situation on the rebuild (300K miles) that I couldn't find a part for that I NEEDED or couldn't make. However, if I needed a head, or cam or crank or block, it had to be used out of australia or Japan. Getting parts from Australia isn't hard at all, at least wasn't for me although I didn't order and "big ticket" used parts. The machine shop had to make 2 freeze plugs, although I may have not ordered them and thats pretty minor. Crank and cam were in excellent shape along with block and only needed polished and the cam a slight grind.
Without knowing 100%, the 12HT will probably be very similar although full rebuilds and aftermarket parts are available from Australia from a few sources along with OEM. Lots of vendors here on mud have lines on parts for both engines, and many online places: partsouq.com amayama.com etc can get you parts in a few days from overseas cheaply.
I was happy with my BJ74 and 13BT stock. I've since turned the boost from 7psi(oem) to 11psi now and still have the desire to turn the fuel up and boost up to 15. It feels great for a few weeks, then you are like, I could use some more power
Of course there are other options for Toyota diesel that come with pros/cons and $$$.
As I put in the other thread, the 12HT sounds awesome.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #95
I kinda replied on the for sale thread.
More reliable given same maintenance. 12HT. Direct Injected, turbo'd from factory, more available power stock and easier to turn up, (which you will want to do...trust me)
The 3B wasn't intended to be turbo'd, is indirect injected, pre-cup issues, less power to begin with.
I have a 13BT (factory turbo'd 3B, basically 2 cylinder less 12HT) and I rebuilt it this year. (Previous Owner blew cooling hose, then head gasket overheating) I didn't run into a situation on the rebuild (300K miles) that I couldn't find a part for that I NEEDED or couldn't make. However, if I needed a head, or cam or crank or block, it had to be used out of australia or Japan. Getting parts from Australia isn't hard at all, at least wasn't for me although I didn't order and "big ticket" used parts. The machine shop had to make 2 freeze plugs, although I may have not ordered them and thats pretty minor. Crank and cam were in excellent shape along with block and only needed polished and the cam a slight grind.
Without knowing 100%, the 12HT will probably be very similar although full rebuilds and aftermarket parts are available from Australia from a few sources along with OEM. Lots of vendors here on mud have lines on parts for both engines, and many online places: partsouq.com amayama.com etc can get you parts in a few days from overseas cheaply.
I was happy with my BJ74 and 13BT stock. I've since turned the boost from 7psi(oem) to 11psi now and still have the desire to turn the fuel up and boost up to 15. It feels great for a few weeks, then you are like, I could use some more power
Of course there are other options for Toyota diesel that come with pros/cons and $$$.
As I put in the other thread, the 12HT sounds awesome.
Yeah, I'm leaning toward the 12HT just so I don't have to swap the input shaft on my H55F.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #96
Anybody have any experience with these guys? They are about to start selling 12HT HJ61 half cuts.
Engines – Yota Imports
Engines – Yota Imports
Contact @joekatana he can hook you up
I'd just fuel inject the fresh sealed 2F. That coupled with the H55 will give you years of reliable service. What is your need for the diesel?
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #99
I probably will just put the 2F back in. No one has a 12HT currently available now anyway. Plus, I'm already 99% of the way there on the 2F with the Holley Sniper setup.
I think I'll put the 2F back in and continue to drive/enjoy the truck. Meanwhile try to find a 12HT and all the components (bell housing, engine mounts, 12 volt starter, 12 volt alternator, etc). Once I get all the parts gathered, I could probably do the swap in a long weekend!
I want a diesel for a variety of reasons - simple/reliable, more torque and power, better fuel economy, better range, novelty/cool-factor.
My ultimate goal has always been a 5-speed diesel Toyota Land Cruiser. First with my 80 series, and now with the 40. The method to get there has evolved over time (6BT, 4BT, R2.8, OM617, 3B , 12HT, etc.), but it's always been the plan.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #100
Ok, making some progress today (unrelated to a diesel swap). My engine stand finally came in! I was able to carve out some time this afternoon and put it together. The engine stand is rated for 1,250 lbs, and the lifting strap is rated to 1,250 lbs for "vertical" lifts, but rated to 2,500 lbs in the "basket" configuration I have on the motor.
Is this safe with plenty of margin for error? I read that the 2F motor weighs around 780 lbs, so I figured I have plenty of headroom.
Also, I was planning on pulling the bell housing from the motor, and attaching the engine to the stand via the bell housing bolts. Anybody know what size/length they are?
Is this safe with plenty of margin for error? I read that the 2F motor weighs around 780 lbs, so I figured I have plenty of headroom.
Also, I was planning on pulling the bell housing from the motor, and attaching the engine to the stand via the bell housing bolts. Anybody know what size/length they are?
