Builds 1977 FJ40 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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The header bar above the door can be pushed forward a bit because of the slots on the B pillar end.

The door also looks too high which could help some. The body mount underneath the B pillar may be too high relative to that underneath the A pillar. Especially if the body has been repaired and/or beat up over the years. Don’t be afraid to shim body mounts or thin them out of it resolves the issue.

It’s hard to see from the pictures what’s happening in the bigger picture. Sometimes it’s very hard to see without being there in person.

@bikersmurf, thanks again for the reply. The slot in the header bar goes up/down, not in/out, so I can't move it towards the windshield, which I think is what I need. Instead, the header is drawing the windshield closer to the door, which is causing the issue. I think I need to spend some more time adjusting the door.

I've been checking dimensions between each side, and so far I've found no smoking gun. For example, the dimension between the cowl and door striker on each side is within and eight of an inch. If you or anyone else has any suggestions on where to take measurements, I'll do it.

I believe (but I'm not certain) that the drivers side rocker panel and tub have been replaced at some point. That may or may not be contributing to my issue. I'll have to upload a picture later, but the gap between the door and rocker gets narrower from front to back. I'll post a picture later.
 
@bikersmurf, thanks again for the reply. The slot in the header bar goes up/down, not in/out, so I can't move it towards the windshield, which I think is what I need. Instead, the header is drawing the windshield closer to the door, which is causing the issue. I think I need to spend some more time adjusting the door.

I've been checking dimensions between each side, and so far I've found no smoking gun. For example, the dimension between the cowl and door striker on each side is within and eight of an inch. If you or anyone else has any suggestions on where to take measurements, I'll do it.

I believe (but I'm not certain) that the drivers side rocker panel and tub have been replaced at some point. That may or may not be contributing to my issue. I'll have to upload a picture later, but the gap between the door and rocker gets narrower from front to back. I'll post a picture later.

I did find one dimensional difference side to side. I measured from the cowl above the top hinge to the side. Drivers side measured 35.25" and the passenger side measured 35". The driver side tapered from 35" to 35.25"

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Here's a picture showing the entire driver door.

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With the top header installed over the driver door, you can see where the slotted hole in the header is in relation to the hold in the side.

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I really want to get the hard top installed. I'm tempted to put it on and see what happens, but I think the driver side door will be an issue.

Thanks to everyone who's helped out so far. It's greatly appreciated. I know I'll have many more questions.
 
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Looking at this picture, it appears that the angle between the door sill and B pillar is greater than 90 degrees. If the front end of the sill were higher, the door wouldn’t rub the door sill. Raised enough, the door could be tilted rearward increasing the clearance to the windshield... toss the idea around.
 
I borrowed a six foot level from work and put it along each side. You can see the driver side is much lower than the passenger side.

Driver Side

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Passenger Side

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Obviously something is happening on the driver side. The roof wouldn't even contact the header over the driver door. If you look closely in this picture, you can see a gap.

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Cut the rocker panel/B-pillar/rear quarter seam and pull the door opening to the right dimensions and weld it back. It’s easy to mess while the quarter and the rocker panel is cut off, I had to straighten mine after first welding.

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Cut the rocker panel/B-pillar/rear quarter seam and pull the door opening to the right dimensions and weld it back. It’s easy to mess while the quarter and the rocker panel is cut off, I had to straighten mine after first welding.

View attachment 2044562

I keep coming back to this, but I want to exhaust all other possibilities before I start cutting metal. Plus, I'd have to hire someone to do the work.
 
Why cant you slot the bolt hole on the piece tha goes above the door to allow the windshield to move forward a bit?

I've considered that as well. The hole is off by 3/8" to 1/2". Wouldn't this also throw off the roof mounting holes between the roof and header?
 
Yes it will and you may need to ream more holes. If you go this route test fit everything loose, and get all bolts started before tightening them down. That is basically what I had to do. You may be able to get some body flex by loosening the rear driver side body mounts.
 
Why cant you slot the bolt hole on the piece tha goes above the door to allow the windshield to move forward a bit?
Tub is bent, why to cheat yourself and ruin the other parts by grinding bolt holes? The difference is still there and caps uneven.

It’s not so hard thing to fix this right, but will need some paint after that.
 
Thanks to everyone for their input. I'm pretty sure the B pillar is out of whack, but it could be the cowl. I want to do some more checking first. I wasn't planning on having to do bodywork at this point, but I'd like to do it right. My biggest fear is figuring out what it should be and making sure everything fits after the bodywork is done (doors, side panels, roof, etc.).
 
I'm starting the wonder if I have the curse of an aftermarket tub. Still haven't convinced myself it's the B pillar. I also noticed there are no nuts in the quarters for the lower ambulance door hinge. The opening at the tailgate isn't very square either. I'm frustrated:bang:

I've reached out to the previous owner to see if he could give me any history on the vehicles bodywork. I don't think he did any bodywork, but he won't return my messages:mad: I'm not trying to hold the guy liable or anything, just looking for some clues that may give me a direction.
 
I'm starting the wonder if I have the curse of an aftermarket tub. Still haven't convinced myself it's the B pillar.
Aftermarket tub or not, doesn’t matter. It can’t be the cowl and the other side of the door opening is the B-pillar. And the door is already hanging, but there is still a big cap above.
 
Looking at the headers above the doors there are 3 tapped holes on the inside vertical face. They are in the cover piece that attaches to the bolted on header. Does anyone know what those are for?
 
@Tlb and I installed the roof tonight. Surprisingly, it went very well. I followed some direction that I found here on the forum and we had it on in a few hours. There are four bolts or so that I couldn't get in. I think with a little more effort, I could get all of them in. I'm not too worried since I plan on taking the top off during the winter so I can repair and paint it.
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We're still having trouble with the door alignment, but we ended up moving the angle bracket up one bolt space.

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This did help a little, but the door still drags across it when closing.
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@Tlb is friends with a retired body man. He restored his 1948 Ford F1. He's going to look at the door alignment/B pillar issue for me.

Brian
 

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