Builds 1977 FJ40 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[onemanarmy]

Most likely a bad ground. Many 40 owners have run a dedicated ground wire from the signals to a good body/chasis ground.

 

[thebigredrocker]

good info from coolerman

Be aware that the flasher is a CURRENT driven device. That means that it MUST have at least 1.3 amps of current flowing through it BEFORE it will flash. What this means to the end user is that at least TWO bulbs must be lit before there is enough current to cause the flasher to flash. That is why the Hazards almost always work as it turns on all four bulbs. The turn signal only flashes two bulbs.

So...
If your battery is low (below 12.5 volts)
Your harness has bad grounds at the lights (high resistance)
Your bulb sockets are corroded (high resistance)
Your bulbs are the wrong type (not enough current flow)
Your turn signal switch is dirty (high resistance)
Your connections between any of these are dirty (high resistance)
Your flasher relay is defective (very possible if OEM) CityRacer sells an NEW OEM replacement or you can order one of my LED flasher kits (you do not have to use LED bulbs if you don't want to. It will flash normal bulbs also)
Your flasher relay works but has dirty relay contacts (high resistance)

If any, all, or some of the above apply...Your turn signals will NOT flash!

These high resistances add up quickly. If there were no resistances in the turn signal circuit you would have battery voltage (+12.7 volts) AT THE LIGHTS! The voltage readings posted above show a lot of resistance in the circuit. Just think about the path the current must take to reach the rear turn bulb. The key switch contacts, the fuse block fuse contacts, the turn/hazard switch contacts, the flasher contacts and all the bullet connectors and wire it must pass through, then finally the bulb sockets contacts, and last the ground connection. If you would clean everyone of these areas properly, you should see that voltage go up.

Another thing about voltage: Incandescent bulbs are rated at battery voltage for their rated lumen output. The lower the voltage at the bulb, the dimmer the light. A bulb rated at 13.2 volts will be how much dimmer at 10 volts? This is why the headlight relay harnesses were invented: to get the voltage at the head lights as high as possible for the brightest lights.

OEM colors for turn signals
Green = Park
Green/Orange (early) or Green/Black (later) = LEFT Turn
Green/Yellow = Right Turn
Green/Blue = Turn switch to flasher (L) to bulbs
Green/White or Green/Red Flasher (B) +12V

 

[Tlb]

Thanks for the reply. That is a big help. Any idea on the ammeter reading?

 

[emac]

My ammeter always reads to the left side of the center line....looks like it is negative but no electrical problems.

 

[Tlb]

Thanks

 

[Tlb]

Just checked the battery with my multimeter. With engine off the meter read 12.12 volts. With engine running it read 11.75 volts. Sounds like alternator is not charging battery. My multimeter has pin type probes not the clamp on type so not sure how accurate.

 

[Tlb]

Does anyone have any suggestions on mounting or aligning the door top bows? Seen to be having problems lining bolts up especially the bolt that attaches to the windshield frame.

 

[brianrb100]

@Tlb and I have been trying to get the hard top mounted properly. It's slow going and we've run into a few issue, the biggest of which is the alignment of the drivers side door. @Tlb will post some pictures later, but when the door closes, it strikes the clip angle that holds the top door header to the windshield. When I tighten all the bolts down, it draws the windshield closer to the door and causes an interference. The door hinges needed addressed, so we replaced them with new pins and bushings. The door is better, but that didn't fix the problem. We loosened all six bolts on the hinges, but couldn't move the door in the direction we needed. The passenger door is almost perfect.

In reading past postings about door alignment, I've come across several instances where it's suggested the body mounts should be replaced. This was on my list, do to the fact that there are only two mounts on the rear instead of four (both on the drivers side). To me, this is a potential red flag that needs corrected one way or another. I've noticed one other mount that has a loose bolt, and at least one other with no bolt at all. I have a complete set of mounts, so I think I should go ahead and replace them before I go any further with the top installation. What do you guys think? Do you guys have any suggestions on the best way to go about replacing the body mounts? Honestly, I'm a little afraid to do this, but I think it must be done.

Brian

 

[brianrb100]

Passenger Side

Driver Side

 

[emac]

Just my experience. If the top was on properly before and nothing else significantly changed, then I would loosen everything back up including the window frame two dash knobs and go from there. If the body was off then losen the body mount bolts. The two dash knobs have a spacer to limit them and the dash may come into play as well.

How does the door striker line up? If the door is correct, then the top is off.

 

[brianrb100]

Just my experience. If the top was on properly before and nothing else significantly changed, then I would loosen everything back up including the window frame two dash knobs and go from there. If the body was off then losen the body mount bolts. The two dash knobs have a spacer to limit them and the dash may come into play as well.

How does the door striker line up? If the door is correct, then the top is off.

To my knowledge, the previous owner never had the top on, and I think he got the vehicle in pieces when he bought it. At some time, I believe the rear sill was replaced, and possibly the rocker panels, but I'm not certain.

Before we started making adjustments, the door striker was shimmed about 1/4". The door had been rubbing the rocker, but the new hinges helped alleviate that a little.

We did loosen the window frame, but when I tighten everything, it draws the wind frame towards the driver and towards the door, making the problem worse if that makes sense.

 

[emac]

This may help:

Builds - Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore

pace has slowed since the truck is running but did manage to get some work done on the hard top. also had a custom pulley machined for the a/c compressor so we could run a factory sized belt. hard top sides finished up with new Toyota seals for the corner windows and spector sliding...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[emac]

To my knowledge, the previous owner never had the top on, and I think he got the vehicle in pieces when he bought it. At some time, I believe the rear sill was replaced, and possibly the rocker panels, but I'm not certain.

Before we started making adjustments, the door striker was shimmed about 1/4". The door had been rubbing the rocker, but the new hinges helped alleviate that a little.

We did loosen the window frame, but when I tighten everything, it draws the wind frame towards the driver and towards the door, making the problem worse if that makes sense.

Doesnt the part that runs above the door to the winshield frame have a little adjustment? Its been a while, but I recall it being two parts and I think some of the holes are elongated.....but I could be wrong.

 

[brianrb100]

Doesnt the part that runs above the door to the winshield frame have a little adjustment? Its been a while, but I recall it being two parts and I think some of the holes are elongated.....but I could be wrong.

I read another post where someone mentioned some adjustment, but I don't see how. That certainly would help.

 

[emac]

Before you start making real changes to metal, try to figure out exactly which part is off. Is it the door or is it the top? I replaced a lot of metal on my rig and had a very hard time getting things to line up. Looking back I really think some of my issues were from over tightening the rear tub body mounts. If they would have been loose, then I think the top would have gone together better. But mine was a complete resto. I feel your pain, take your time and sometimes its best to walk away for a day or two!

 

[brianrb100]

I'll get some additional pictures tonight, but I think the B pillar may be a little off and that's why I have to pull the windshield back to make the connection to the door header. When I move the windshield, it get the interference with the door (see pic above).

I think I'll replace the body mounts, if for nothing else but to eliminate that as a potential cause of misalignment. It needs done anyway, since as I said above, I'm missing body mounts across the back sill. My plan would be to replace all mounts and not tighten them until I get the top on and doors aligned. The problem I'm facing is the logistics of replacing the body mounts. I'm not sure how to go about doing it.

 

[brianrb100]

I've read the instructions for the Energy Suspension body mounts I have and understand the procedure. The only part I'm not clear on is do you raise the body locally at each mount, or raise the body at one point and change an entire side?

 

[brianrb100]

Anyone? I've been looking at the body this afternoon and still can't decide how to jack up each side.

 

[brianrb100]

@Tlb and I were able to get the body mounts replaced. Right now, all bolts are in and only finger tight.

We jacked the body up for the side mounts, and lifted the body to replace the ones at the rear sill. The only problem is on the inside one on the drivers side, I can't get the top mount and bolt plate on. The support that's inside the sill channel is in the wrong place and there is not enough clearance to get the other pieces on. I think I'm going to make a polyurethane donut and put a nut on that. My guess is that sill is aftermarket.

I was missing two body mounts (passenger rear sill), and two others had no bolts at all. Even if this doesn't fix my alignment issues, it's still something that needed done.

 

[bikersmurf]

The header bar above the door can be pushed forward a bit because of the slots on the B pillar end.

The door also looks too high which could help some. The body mount underneath the B pillar may be too high relative to that underneath the A pillar. Especially if the body has been repaired and/or beat up over the years. Don’t be afraid to shim body mounts or thin them out of it resolves the issue.

It’s hard to see from the pictures what’s happening in the bigger picture. Sometimes it’s very hard to see without being there in person.