Builds 1977 FJ40 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[jim land]

have you check if the top of the quarters panel is parallel left to right , look like the driver side is lower in the rear , it could be cause by a crooked frame .



To check your frame , lift the 40 and put it on jackstands under the frame (not the axles) use some plywood of different thickness under the jackstands to make it sit level , then compare front and rear bumper for levelness.

 

[brianrb100]

have you check if the top of the quarters panel is parallel left to right , look like the driver side is lower in the rear , it could be cause by a crooked frame .



To check your frame , lift the 40 and put it on jackstands under the frame (not the axles) use some plywood of different thickness under the jackstands to make it sit level , then compare front and rear bumper for levelness.

View attachment 2054248

Jim,

Thanks for your reply. At some point I would like to check this. I'm not sure the above picture is a good indication. This is when it was first delivered and the top and sides were not full bolted to the tub. I check the gap recently and it seems very consistent. I'll have to look again.

 

[brianrb100]

@Tlb and I have made some progress. Here is what we've accomplished since I last posted:

1) The roof is on, but not perfectly. The driver door is closing, but only slightly rubbing on the header.
2) Installed the rear step I got from CityRacer.
3) Went for a 10 mile drive, which is probably the furthest it's gone in a while.
4) Replaced the bypass hose since the old one started leaking after the above drive.
5) Removed the Grant wheel that was on and installed the original steering wheel.

One thing we have noticed is the gas pedal is very stiff. Both of us are having trouble getting used to it. Anyone else have this problem?

Brian

 

[Tlb]

I have a question regarding starting the fj40. Every once in a while when we go to start the truck we get nothing to the starter. If we rock in back and fourth while in gear it will start.

 

[brianrb100]

I'm reconnecting my alternator. Attached is a picture before I disconnected it. Per the schematic, the WL wire should be connected to B, but in my photo it wasn't, and the capacitor was. Can I have both the capacitor and WL on B.

 

[1Fine40]

One quick question and observation...are you sure that all of the body mounts have been used and installed correctly? If those were off, it could cause the body to twist more than a little bit and misalign stuff. If you already thecked that, then maybe the PO's body shop just welded stuff on crooked....hope not!!

Good luck!

 

[Cromagnon]

@Tlb and I have made some progress. Here is what we've accomplished since I last posted:

1) The roof is on, but not perfectly. The driver door is closing, but only slightly rubbing on the header.
2) Installed the rear step I got from CityRacer.
3) Went for a 10 mile drive, which is probably the furthest it's gone in a while.
4) Replaced the bypass hose since the old one started leaking after the above drive.
5) Removed the Grant wheel that was on and installed the original steering wheel.

One thing we have noticed is the gas pedal is very stiff. Both of us are having trouble getting used to it. Anyone else have this problem?

Brian

Send a pic of the accelerator pedal linkage. The return spring could be stronger / shorter than OEM causing it to be stiff or there could be something interfering with the linkage.

 

[Cromagnon]

I have a question regarding starting the fj40. Every once in a while when we go to start the truck we get nothing to the starter. If we rock in back and fourth while in gear it will start.

Sounds like this could be a intermittant ignition switch, failing solenoid or a burned spot on the commutator in the starter. I don't think rocking the vehicle in gear is really curing anything since the starter isn't engaged to the flywheel (at least it shouldn't be.)

 

[Cromagnon]

I'm reconnecting my alternator. Attached is a picture before I disconnected it. Per the schematic, the WL wire should be connected to B, but in my photo it wasn't, and the capacitor was. Can I have both the capacitor and WL on B.

View attachment 2192745

The capacitor is for RFI suppression. When presented with an AC signal it acts as a short with a path to ground. When presented with a DC signal it acts as an open and the current goes to the battery. The WL should be on the B terminal with the capacitor. Please disconnect the battery before changing these connections.

 

[brianrb100]

The capacitor is for RFI suppression. When presented with an AC signal it acts as a short with a path to ground. When presented with a DC signal it acts as an open and the current goes to the battery. The WL should be on the B terminal with the capacitor. Please disconnect the battery before changing these connections.

Thanks for all your replies. I will upload a picture of the pedal later. As far as the alternator, I'm going to move the WL onto the B terminal. The battery is disconnected.

Brian

 

[Cromagnon]

Thanks for all your replies. I will upload a picture of the pedal later. As far as the alternator, I'm going to move the WL onto the B terminal. The battery is disconnected.

Brian

I forgot one thing... O H

 

[brianrb100]

I forgot one thing... O H

I O?

 

[brianrb100]

Send a pic of the accelerator pedal linkage. The return spring could be stronger / shorter than OEM causing it to be stiff or there could be something interfering with the linkage.

 

[Cromagnon]

View attachment 2194138

This looks grossly normal. What about the other side?

 

[brianrb100]

This looks grossly normal. What about the other side?

 

[Cromagnon]

View attachment 2194187

That doesn't look normal. The linkage has been replaced with a cable. Can you get a pic of the whole assembly please? Show the carb linkage too. Thanks.

 

[Cromagnon]

Scroll through this thread to see what OEM looks like. But we can probably find a working solution with what you have.

 

[brianrb100]

That doesn't look normal. The linkage has been replaced with a cable. Can you get a pic of the whole assembly please? Show the carb linkage too. Thanks.

The previous owner installed an AFI unit.

 

[Cromagnon]

We all love our POs ... I always wonder what has been said about me, can't be good. Anyway check for any binding or kinking in the cable. It may need some lube, just use something that will dry and not attract dirt and dust or gum up. I like Boeshield and a cable lube injector for bicycle cables. Then check the throttle body to see if it is stiff. At the same time check the return spring and see if it requires superman to pull it open.

 

[brianrb100]

We finally figured out our alternator/battery charging problem. When I first took possession, my dad noticed a bare wire leading to the alternator. At the time we taped it up. Dad decided to unwrap it and inspect it further, and in doing so we found another wire leading to the alternator was broken. After replacing the fuse, everything seems good. Finally something went right!

We've moved on to checking some electrical issues and here is where we're stumped. First, my dash lights are not working. All I have is the right turn signal indicator. We took the gauge cluster out and checked the grounds and continuity and everything was good. We replaced the bulbs and reinstalled them and replaced the fuse. After this I got left and right turn signal indicators only, no dash or high beam. I also got running lights and taillights. I decided to replace all the bulbs in the cluster with LED's. When I did that, I'm back to only the right indicator. I then turned the headlight switch and as soon as I did, i blew a fuse. If I keep the switch turned fully clockwise, I'm ok. As soon as I turn it, the fuse blows. Do you think it's the headlight switch? How can I check it?