Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (8 Viewers)

[DangerNoodle]

A little update. Got a gas filler hole in. Stupid po was kind enough to remove it.

The door is a little cattywompus, but it at least fits.

Does anyone know where I can get one of the OEM lock latches for the door? The little piece that bolts above the filler neck.

I put up some plasticz as I am planning on painting the rest of the tub tomorrow, so some more updates to come.

 

[Paul]

Looks good. Tell me about your process of sand blasting or stripping the body, epoxy primer.
Here a shot of my frame ready to paint.
can’t decide on an engine or my plans for the tub.

 

[Paul]

Hey Noodle. What’s the trick for separating my tcase from tranny. Can’t get the friggin off. Looks like only 3 main bolts. Won’t come apart. Help?

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Hey Noodle. What’s the trick for separating my tcase from tranny. Can’t get the friggin off. Looks like only 3 main bolts. Won’t come apart. Help?

Send me some pics of the back of your t case, I think you're missing a couple bolts. There should be 5.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Hey Noodle. What’s the trick for separating my tcase from tranny. Can’t get the friggin off. Looks like only 3 main bolts. Won’t come apart. Help?

Pop off the PTO cover (Big cover on the driver side). You should find 2 bolts hiding in there. I'm assuming you have stock 1 piece case.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Looks good. Tell me about your process of sand blasting or stripping the body, epoxy primer.
Here a shot of my frame ready to paint.
can’t decide on an engine or my plans for the tub.

View attachment 2518839

I used some coarse sanding pads on a grinder and ripped as much paint and body filler off as I could before shipping the tub off to go get blasted. Make sure the guys are experienced, cause they can warp the tub if they do it wrong. It won't be cheap, but it is totally worth it if you are planning on trying to restore or fix rust. I'd strip everything off the frame and blast it, then powder coat it. That's what mine currently is.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Young man is wise for his years.

 

[White Stripe]

A little update. Got a gas filler hole in. Stupid po was kind enough to remove it. View attachment 2518680 View attachment 2518681 View attachment 2518682 The door is a little cattywompus, but it at least fits. View attachment 2518683 Does anyone know where I can get one of the OEM lock latches for the door? The little piece that bolts above the filler neck. I put up some plasticz as I am planning on painting the rest of the tub tomorrow, so some more updates to come. View attachment 2518684 Looks like your tubs top rail has really disintegrated. Was it rusted that bad? The dealer may have those fuel door parts including the lock.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Looks like your tubs top rail has really disintegrated. Was it rusted that bad? The dealer may have those fuel door parts including the lock.

The passenger side is really bad. The PO was nice enough to cover it all up with a large amount of Bondo. It all came off when the tub got blasted. Funny enough, the other side is just about perfect. I'm leaving it alone pretty much. I hate Bondo and I am planning on running the hard top most of the time anyway. This is a wheeling rig, I'll make the body acceptable from 10 feet away. I'd rather have paint that I know will stick instead of filler.

 

[White Stripe]

The passenger side is really bad. The PO was nice enough to cover it all up with a large amount of Bondo. It all came off when the tub got blasted. Funny enough, the other side is just about perfect. I'm leaving it alone pretty much. I hate Bondo and I am planning on running the hard top most of the time anyway. This is a wheeling rig, I'll make the body acceptable from 10 feet away. I'd rather have paint that I know will stick instead of filler.

Gotcha. Just my opinion as something you may want to consider. If the rust on that rail really was that bad, the sandblaster only gets rid of the superficial rust. If you cut off the top rail outer layer, clean out the hidden rust, spray with weld primer, put back together, the rust won't continue to spread. Fairly easy to do now. As far as running the hard top all the time, I've noticed on harder trails it throws off my 40s weight bias front to rear and it doesn't climb as well. You may find yourself feeling the same way. Also my hard top seems to get hammered on harder trails anyway so I prefer to run without it on the harder stuff. But on less difficult trails and on the street I love my hard top.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Gotcha. Just my opinion as something you may want to consider. If the rust on that rail really was that bad, the sandblaster only gets rid of the superficial rust. If you cut off the top rail outer layer, clean out the hidden rust, spray with weld primer, put back together, the rust won't continue to spread. Fairly easy to do now. As far as running the hard top all the time, I've noticed on harder trails it throws off my 40s weight bias front to rear and it doesn't climb as well. You may find yourself feeling the same way. Also my hard top seems to get hammered on harder trails anyway so I prefer to run without it on the harder stuff. But on less difficult trails and on the street I love my hard top.

Good point. I'm about to start painting that, so I may not, but I'll dump some rust converter down there to help stop stuff. I thought that was a single piece rail with just the clamshell up top. Hopefully, the dry air here will slow everything down as well.

 

[White Stripe]

Good point. I'm about to start painting that, so I may not, but I'll dump some rust converter down there to help stop stuff. I thought that was a single piece rail with just the clamshell up top. Hopefully, the dry air here will slow everything down as well.

It will probably slow it. With your fab skills though you could probably cut it out and fix it in like an hour.

 

[Paul]

I will Noodle’s suggestion. I will take a new pics and post. I have a Orion HD tcase to a H42 tranny. Thanks.

 

[pb4ugo]

In my experience, @White Stripe is correct. I learned a long time ago, tops and trail riding don't go well together. When I was building my 40, there was not going to be a full top. I would run a bikini top and maybe soft doors, and I rarely if ever take doors with me, unless the weather is really bad. I hardly ever run trails with the windshield up.

 

[Bripars40]

In my experience, @White Stripe is correct. I learned a long time ago, tops and trail riding don't go well together. When I was building my 40, there was not going to be a full top. I would run a bikini top and maybe soft doors, and I rarely if ever take doors with me, unless the weather is really bad. I hardly ever run trails with the windshield up.

Agreed 100%. I would rather bash the roll cage on a tree or rock than completely destroy the hardtop. Plus it doesn’t take long to remove for a short trip.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I completley agree with the top thing. I only really like the top on to stop getting dusted out as much. I will be pulling tbe top for harder runs, but it will probably live on the cruiser more than not.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Got the rest of the interior prepped and painted today. Barely had enough paint, but everthing got 2 solid coats.

Preheating everything is a big pain, but necessary.

All painted. I'll wait about a week before doing anything, but I can fully start reassembly now.

 

[Paul]

What’s the color?

 

[DangerNoodle]

What’s the color?

Audi Nardo Gray.

 

[Paul]

Thanks rkymtnflyfisher and Noodle. You guys are right. 5 bolts total with 2 of them inside the PTO cover on my tcase. I will pull separate the H42 and Orion tomorrow.