Builds 1969 FJ40 Father / Son Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter royal cake
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Back in town Shane.
1. As others have suggested, bump up the timing and turn down the idle speed. Try to get RPM under 800.
2. Use a flashlight to look past the choke butterfly into the primary. You should not see gas dribbling out of the emulsifier. If you do, the idle mixture screw will be non-responsive.
3. You can still break in an engine with a non-responsive idle circuit. You just have to keep the rpm up higher to where the engine rpm matches what the primary is putting out. 1300+ should carry it if you’ve got a good hot spark.
4. If you haven’t already done so, pull plugs to see/smell if that is the case.
5. Check your dipstick (smell) to see how much (if any) gas is getting past the rings because they’re not seated yet.
6. Idle vacuum of 17” plus at an idle under 800 RPM is the goal. Ruling out vacuum leaks for the moment, you’re just not going to see 17” until the rings seat.
As always, I don’t mind if those who find this information useful hit the like button.
1. As others have suggested, bump up the timing and turn down the idle speed. Try to get RPM under 800.
2. Use a flashlight to look past the choke butterfly into the primary. You should not see gas dribbling out of the emulsifier. If you do, the idle mixture screw will be non-responsive.
3. You can still break in an engine with a non-responsive idle circuit. You just have to keep the rpm up higher to where the engine rpm matches what the primary is putting out. 1300+ should carry it if you’ve got a good hot spark.
4. If you haven’t already done so, pull plugs to see/smell if that is the case.
5. Check your dipstick (smell) to see how much (if any) gas is getting past the rings because they’re not seated yet.
6. Idle vacuum of 17” plus at an idle under 800 RPM is the goal. Ruling out vacuum leaks for the moment, you’re just not going to see 17” until the rings seat.
As always, I don’t mind if those who find this information useful hit the like button.
Last edited:
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As far as your temp guage, where does the needle sit cold, key on?
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- #324
Gonna try that today Mark, I’ll let you know. Jack who did my cluster noted there is a calibration wheel on the gauge so if it comes down to that being it I can adjust that.
- Thread starter
- #325
Turn key on and no movement for 10 seconds, then it only gets to here with cold engine. Seems like a calibration issue? I can try adjusting it.
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Yup. Needle should be on C when cold.
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- #327
Mark I missed this post.Back in town Shane.
1. As others have suggested, bump up the timing and turn down the idle speed. Try to get RPM under 800.
2. Use a flashlight to look past the choke butterfly into the primary. You should not see gas dribbling out of the emulsifier. If you do, the idle mixture screw will be non-responsive.
3. You can still break in an engine with a non-responsive idle circuit. You just have to keep the rpm up higher to where the engine rpm matches what the primary is put out. 1300+ should carry it if you’ve got a good hot spark.
4. If you haven’t already done so, pull plugs to see/smell if that is the case.
5. Check your dipstick (smell) to see how much (if any) gas is getting past the rings because they’re not seated yet.
6. Idle vacuum of 17” plus at an idle under 800 RPM is the goal. Ruling out vacuum leaks for the moment, you’re just not going to see 17” until the rings seat.
As always, I don’t mind if those who find this useful hit the like button.
I’ve got it idling nice now and I’ll proceed with those checks. It seems to be right around 15/16 inches vacuum. Thanks for the info!
Now that I have a handle on my temp I’m good to let it run.
- Thread starter
- #328
Back in town Shane.
1. As others have suggested, bump up the timing and turn down the idle speed. Try to get RPM under 800.
2. Use a flashlight to look past the choke butterfly into the primary. You should not see gas dribbling out of the emulsifier. If you do, the idle mixture screw will be non-responsive.
3. You can still break in an engine with a non-responsive idle circuit. You just have to keep the rpm up higher to where the engine rpm matches what the primary is put out. 1300+ should carry it if you’ve got a good hot spark.
4. If you haven’t already done so, pull plugs to see/smell if that is the case.
5. Check your dipstick (smell) to see how much (if any) gas is getting past the rings because they’re not seated yet.
6. Idle vacuum of 17” plus at an idle under 800 RPM is the goal. Ruling out vacuum leaks for the moment, you’re just not going to see 17” until the rings seat.
As always, I don’t mind if those who find this useful hit the like button.
did what you said and advanced, turned down the idle. Let it run for a while varying RPMs 1300-2000 or so. Kept an eye on temperature at the sender and it was a steady 190F after it heated up.
Looks like I’m hovering around 17” now on vacuum. No gas smell in the oil; I haven’t pulled the plugs yet to take a look at them.
I feel like the idle could be smoother but I haven’t messed with carb mixture or timing anymore.
I’m going to call it good enough to put the hood on and know I have to fine tune things.
Thanks!
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You need a valve adjustment NOW.
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- #330
Sound? What were you hearing?
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Sound, and the flicker on the needle. And do not be surprised if you have to do it again sooner than later. All part of the fun of breaking in a rebuild.
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- #332
Will do! Thanks Mark.
- Thread starter
- #333
Weekend update:
I got the valves adjusted; warmed up the motor and checked them all before adjusting. Most were pretty tight, like exhaust closer to 0.009”than 0.014”.
I fired it back up but I’m still not tuned up correctly, so I decided to move on and save that for another day.
I got the hood on and made a support rod. By the way 3/8 rod is a good fit. I don’t have a good solution for landing place for it though. Maybe a bracket over the thermostat housing? Hood could line up better but I don’t have the energy to mess with it at the moment.
I got the brakes bled and found a few fittings that needed to be tightened. Hopefully that was the extent of it. Note to self, unhook the battery when working on the truck. I shorted from the positive cable in the started to a brake line…
Also got the clutch adjusted per the FSM so fingers crossed that works well.
I got the valves adjusted; warmed up the motor and checked them all before adjusting. Most were pretty tight, like exhaust closer to 0.009”than 0.014”.
I fired it back up but I’m still not tuned up correctly, so I decided to move on and save that for another day.
I got the hood on and made a support rod. By the way 3/8 rod is a good fit. I don’t have a good solution for landing place for it though. Maybe a bracket over the thermostat housing? Hood could line up better but I don’t have the energy to mess with it at the moment.
I got the brakes bled and found a few fittings that needed to be tightened. Hopefully that was the extent of it. Note to self, unhook the battery when working on the truck. I shorted from the positive cable in the started to a brake line…
Also got the clutch adjusted per the FSM so fingers crossed that works well.
- Thread starter
- #334
Going to try out this support rod cup. Turned a piece of aluminum on the lathe and swapped out the thermostat housing bolt with a socket head cap screw, slightly longer to make up for the thickness.
I put it in the closer bolt to not have a big moment arm on the housing.
Also verified the tranny spins and front drive shaft all working. Very tempting to just take the top on and drove it around
Also got the air cleaner on and just need to find a hose clamp at the carb interface.
Also found the box of parts with hood and door hardware and it had my hood spear! It was good day - now I can take a few parts for chrome.
I put it in the closer bolt to not have a big moment arm on the housing.
Also verified the tranny spins and front drive shaft all working. Very tempting to just take the top on and drove it around
Also got the air cleaner on and just need to find a hose clamp at the carb interface.
Also found the box of parts with hood and door hardware and it had my hood spear! It was good day - now I can take a few parts for chrome.
- Thread starter
- #335
Catching up here with a couple odds and ends. I did some calibration of my temp and fuel gauges with senders on the bench. I think it worked pretty well; fuel gauge works now and haven’t tried the temp gauge yet in the truck.
Keeping the water at a constant temp in the Pyrex would be nice, maybe a hot plate.
Also, the LED bulb from West Marine worked well for my high beam indicator. I can see through the lens now
Keeping the water at a constant temp in the Pyrex would be nice, maybe a hot plate.
Also, the LED bulb from West Marine worked well for my high beam indicator. I can see through the lens now
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- #336
And today was the windshield. Man this tested my patience. I thought I was prepared but it took me hours…
The rope method worked well until the last 9 inches or so when I wasn’t paying attention and it pulled out. I eventually got it and now just waiting for the tool to put the lock cord in.
The rope method worked well until the last 9 inches or so when I wasn’t paying attention and it pulled out. I eventually got it and now just waiting for the tool to put the lock cord in.
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- #337
Churning along. Got the lock strip installed and I have to say that tool is fantastic.
Dropped off the underside plates and some other items to be sandblasted and powder coated, and some parts to chrome.
Also got my valve cover vent line made from two Gates hoses and a coupler which seemed to work out pretty well.
And long story short, when I was adjusting valves I noticed the last rocker had a lot of play and saw that there was no spring. I got that part from the outfit that did my engine and got it installed, but yikes, that wasn’t good.
Next up is that crusty connector on my wiper motor.
Dropped off the underside plates and some other items to be sandblasted and powder coated, and some parts to chrome.
Also got my valve cover vent line made from two Gates hoses and a coupler which seemed to work out pretty well.
And long story short, when I was adjusting valves I noticed the last rocker had a lot of play and saw that there was no spring. I got that part from the outfit that did my engine and got it installed, but yikes, that wasn’t good.
Next up is that crusty connector on my wiper motor.
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- #338
Windshield is in place! It fit very well to the lower weatherstripping. I’m not even looking at how the top fits yet, I’m just basking in the current progress and will deal with that later. Haha
- Thread starter
- #339
there was also a broken wire on the wiper motors assembly so got that soldered up. Now I need to figure out how to bench test it.
Maybe this thread will help.
