1969 FJ40 Brake Questions

[69 FJ40]

It looks like the adapter part # is wwmcspcr and was $45. The master is part# 260-7563 and was $146. This was a year ago.
I was wrong about the routing. I just went over the firewall and down to the frame then back to the rear.
The straight thru fitting that's next to the starter on the top of the frame got moved forward and replaced the T or 3 way brake fitting that supplies the right front brake. This way you don't have to try and come up with a 9mm plug.
The front circuit ends here.

This is why it is important to save the 9mm fittings. You can flare it on to a new line so it goes to the left front brake from your master.

Here you can see where the rear line comes off the front of the master thru the proportioning valve then up and over the firewall and down to the frame, then back to the rear axle. You can flare in the proportioning valve when you go with discs in the rear later.

Thank you fireflyr this helps a lot. I will research the p/n's and the pics are great. Appreciate it.

 

[69 FJ40]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/464213-my-single-circuit-brake-upgrade.html Since I did this I have to say I love it. I am still running drums all the way around and its working out Perfect ! In fact Georg ( orangeFJ45 ) at Valley Hybrids is now selling the complete adapter with the extension for the brake rod so it bolts right up. I picked up a core master and bought a reman from Napa auto parts also you can do search for the 10mm fittings that adapt to the 9mm lines. If your still running a 1barrell clearence should nit be a problem Good Luck with your project

landcrusher909 I posted your diy link in my original post. It definitely helps. Glad you are happy with the upgrade, I will be running drums all 4 corners too. I called mark on Friday but I will try george too. Still running the 1bbl so this should work. Thanks again.

 

[fireflyr]

Johann,
Here's the picture I promised. I don't think you'll have clearance problems with that carb.

Pat

 

[fireflyr]

In your PM you had asked about the difference in the stock pushrod and the one that came with the Wildwood master:



If I could have found the end fitting to fit the new rod I would have installed that. I may end up making one but the old one works fine with a little material taken off.

 

[69 FJ40]

Pat,
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your time all the info and pics you have provided. This is very helpful. By the way nice cruiser!

Cheers,
Johann

 

[Cruiserkritta]

If there was just a like button I just would have clicked on that! I agree totally!

 

[69fj4069]

I am not sure if this helps. But I saw a nova in the junkyard last week with 4 wheel drums and a dual circuit master with no booster that is fairly small. I am running disks on the front of my 69 with a non boosted dual circuit corvette master.

 

[69 FJ40]

Time to do this swap

So it took me a couple of months, but I believe I have most of the components needed to do this swap and have a few questions:

Thanks to Mark A, I got the adapter and the MC. See attached pic.

What do I do with the fittings the arrows are pointing to? I know I am utilizing the ones with the yellow tabs.
Also is it necessary to bench bleed the MC?
How many feet of brake line do I need for the new line?
Am I missing any other components needed?

 

[69 FJ40]

As for the new brake line and connection I am making for the rear brakes. Do I just remove the line and plug the connection where the arrow is pointing to in this pic? What size and where can I find this fitting?

 

[69 FJ40]

Once I remove the line in the previous pic. I would be attaching the new brake line for the rear brakes where the arrow pointing in this pic? I am trying to figure this out before I start this project. As always I appreciate the help and feedback from everyone. Please let me know if I am missing anything or any steps I need to complete and hopefully another would find this info helpful for when they do this. Thank you in advance.

 

[69 FJ40]

BUMP..to the top. Would like some help here. Thanks

 

[cruisertom]

I did the mini truck swap on my 68. You will need to flare one line with a newer fitting for the rear drums. I used the stock minitruck master and vacuum booster with a custom adapter that spaced the vacuum booster off the firewall to clear the firewall rib. The found some metric all thread to extend the pedal to master cylinder push rod. If you go the mini truck route you will need to grind the knuckle ball to get the bigger birfs to fit and address the tie rod length and taper issue. I solved that with the starter bushing in the steering arm mod. Then could reuse my stock tierod and steering system. You could also go hysteer to address the steering arm issue but can get expensive. Also used IFS calipers and early FJ60 vented rotors. Stopped really well and except for the custom booster/firewall adapter it was all factory easily sourced parts. Plus I did not need a proportioning valve.

 

[cruisertom]

As for your question I don't remember but it looks like your front circuit line will go from the master to the front brakes, then the rear circuit will hook up to the rear line and basically not use the fitting anymore that ties the front line and back lines together. That fitting is where you split the circuits if I remember correctly.

 

[65swb45]

Johann, the pieces you have pointed to in the first pic are the bleeder screws for the master cylinder. You don't need to add anything to them or replace them. Just use them to help bleed the master cylinder.

As for the junction, that is where I separate the front from the back as well. I never really took the time to research whether or not there was a specific fitting to use as a 'cap' for the junction, as it was just too easy to modify one of the old 9mm fittings with the welder to use as a cap.

Best

Mark A.

 

[69 FJ40]

Johann, the pieces you have pointed to in the first pic are the bleeder screws for the master cylinder. You don't need to add anything to them or replace them. Just use them to help bleed the master cylinder.

As for the junction, that is where I separate the front from the back as well. I never really took the time to research whether or not there was a specific fitting to use as a 'cap' for the junction, as it was just too easy to modify one of the old 9mm fittings with the welder to use as a cap.

Best

Mark A.

Thanks Mark, this is what I figured, but I wanted to be sure. Is bleeding the master cylinder required?

Did you just weld up the hole in the 9MM fitting to make it work?

Thanks again,

Johann

 

[brew8]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/443392-depth-rear-disc-brake-conversion.html

Here is Riggers conversion, might give you some good ideas

 

[69 FJ40]

I am trying to remove the hard lines and the flare nut keeps spinning in the fitting it won't come loose! What am I doing wrong here? Looking for some guidance or tips on how to remove this darn thing. Thank you.

 

[zags]

Everyone trys to scare people into discs and dual masters around here.
If you are competent working on brakes you can make the stock system work dang good.
Flame suit on.

That said...if your not dialed on working on brakes...have someone who is do the work!

Well said!

 

[zags]

I am trying to remove the hard lines and the flare nut keeps spinning in the fitting it won't come loose! What am I doing wrong here? Looking for some guidance or tips on how to remove this darn thing. Thank you.

It was over-tightened, now the end of the fitting has expanded, trapping it in the hole. You will need to pull on the fitting while turning it counter clockwise. You may be able to get the wrench to bind on the fitting so you can use it to pull on and turn the fitting at the same time. Or may need to grab it with vice grips. Once you get it out, you can lightly grind or file the expanded end of the fitting to get it to fit in to the new hole.

 

[69 FJ40]

It was over-tightened, now the end of the fitting has expanded, trapping it in the hole. You will need to pull on the fitting while turning it counter clockwise. You may be able to get the wrench to bind on the fitting so you can use it to pull on and turn the fitting at the same time. Or may need to grab it with vice grips. Once you get it out, you can lightly grind or file the expanded end of the fitting to get it to fit in to the new hole.

Zags, thank you. I believe they were overtightened. I was able to get the flare nuts out and they looked expanded, which was trapping them in the T. I hope I didn't strip the inside of the T-fitting, pulling these out!