Builds 1968 FJ40 Wheeler Build (5 Viewers)

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My Dad and I are currently neck deep in a frame off, nut and bolt resto mod of a 1972 FJ40 that we rescued off of a hillside in WV.

Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off


It is currently at the painters and I have had a chance to think about the next project plan for a few minutes.

In October of 2015, after replacing the parking brake backing plate bolts with OEM replacements, we decided that the '72 was going to be to nice to wheel properly.

Upon the possibility of a move @reevesci mentioned selling his 40 build;

'68 build-- aka -- TANK

I casually mentioned this to my dad and before we could come to our senses, he was on his way to WY with the trailer.

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@reevesci had completed 2F/H42/split case, power steering and front disc conversions from a late FJ60. Also, he installed 36x17 Super Swampers on 80 rims, large diameter spring/shackle hangers and a 4" rough country lift.

As it sits now:

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Plan of attack (probably this coming fall) is to use as many of the parts that we have on hand to make a capable wheeler that is streetable:

>SOA on full width 60 axles front and rear

>FJ60 stock height rear springs
>Flipped and outboarded 40 stock springs in front
>Detroit locker in rear
>4.11 gears
>Trollhole FST
>Family cage tied into frame
>Trail Tailor rear tire carrier and cooler basket
>Trail Taylor front winch bumper
>Tube front fenders, sliders and half doors

Being in OH, we are not experienced offroaders. I equate this to buying my first small tractor in that ill build what i think we need now but will need to tweek as we get some seat time.

Our goal is to attend some of the Landcruiser events in Moab, PA and the South. We have a Miller 211 welder, air tools and Mud to help.

I have enjoyed reading through all the Hardcore build threads and thanks in advance for the answers and opinions.

Please feel free to let your opinions fly as that is why this build will be in Hardcore.

Might think to get new 60 rear springs for the back. I first went with used springs, big waste of time and money.

I depacked them, blasted them, slipped plated them, POR the outside and all for noting. They were shot. Found out when under my rug. My ass sagged terrible. As well as I had bad "cruiser lean".

I talked to cruiser outfitters and Curt said he had the same issue. When his shop does SOA to 40's the shop uses new 60 rear springs with 2 inch lift. At least that is what he told me.


Therefore I bought rear fj60 springs from him with the 2 in lift. I also got an A and B spring to counter the "cruiser lean".

In the front I ran used stock 60 springs that I had. This combo worked nice for me.

Here is my thread: SOA Fj40 Questions - 55 Springs - "Measure twice cut once"
 
Tank has emerged from storage. I am focusing on getting the steering conversion squared away and have been accumulating parts to get it fired up. The build will be slow as I’ve got the kids home from school and I am selling extra parts to fund other parts purchases.

So far I’ve ordered a plastic fan, DOM, 4plus 23mm TRE inserts, Valley Hybrids Saginaw Pump kit, Summit Racing Steering column, radiator hoses and a Speedway 12 circuit mini harness.

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Change of plans. My dad smoked the F in his ‘69. The 2F that I was going to use is going into his truck.

I found a 2000 5.3 to use. I’ll be mirroring @A10Driver s build and using the AA bellhousing to the split case and H42.

The Bellhousing showed up today and I am planning on using LSX innovations adjustable mounts.


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You will love the LS and it will be fine with 4:11 gears. I have the 6.0 and a th350 with Atlas and 4:11 with 37's and dont have any issues at all wheeling
 
This looks like progress. Now my interest is piqued.
Title sez wheeler build, but tranny/transfer/axles look stock? What's the plan to slow down those monster meats?
Hey Jim, hope you are doing well.

Front axle has a 60 disc conversion. I’ll either do rear discs or rear 60 drums. Plan as of now is get drivetrain in place and then mess around with gearing. Probably low range gears in split case or regear in diffs.

“Wheeler” will be a loose term. right now it means that i don’t have to stress about anyone just looking at it wrong like i do with the ‘72.

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I meant slow down the gearing, but you have a good point about brakes as well.
Big tires have more leverage, making brakes seem less effective. Using 60 front knuckles, V6mintruck calipers and good pads will bring front brake effectiveness back in line with stock. The 81-later rear drums are pretty effective & include a good P-brake. If using an e-80 rear axle & T-case mounted P-brake, the common GM disc swap would be a good upgrade.

The gearing department is mo' money. Since you have a dummy H55 already, the easy button is a new H55 for a little lower 1st gear, and rebuild the 38mm T-case with the 4:1 low range gears. Oh, and 4.88 axle gears & Harrop E-lockers.
That's only 7000 US dollars.
 
Edit: with the power of EFI V8, the axles don't need regeared to 4.88. was curious, so punched numbers into gear calculator and H55 with 4.11 yields a little over 2000rpm at 65mph. And you can always drop to 4th for pulling a trailer up an interstate grade. The V8 will run all day at 2600rpm.
 
I’ve been messing around with engine placement for the past few weeks.

It’s about 12 3/4” from the front of the AA motor mounts to the rear of the shock tower. 10 1/2” from the front of the harmonic balancer to the front cross member and it’s at about 3.5* of an angle at the intake. I still need to install steering column and build the tranny crossmember.

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What headers do you have on your LS the ones i initially bought are so close and they are rear exit they will not clear the ears of the TH350 transmission I am running.

thanks in advance for the info...
 
What headers do you have on your LS the ones i initially bought are so close and they are rear exit they will not clear the ears of the TH350 transmission I am running.

thanks in advance for the info...
Sanderson. @A10Driver posted them on his awesome build.
 
A big clutch fan trying to cool a V8 rolling on 36" tires draws 5hp. At 785watts/HP, it would take 3.9KW (300A @12V) to match that.
It's inefficient to use electricity to move air when there is a 250hp fan directly behind the radiator.
 

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