1964 puzzle from an old Friend

[NKC]

Not doing well at posting today, screwing up my story line!
Any way, got gas, power, and fire extinguishers, and hit the ignition:

And I apologize for the music, didn't seem that loud at the time.
Almost fired, but gas was all over by the carb, figured stuck float. Never messed with a Q Jet before, but, what the heck.

First attempt to get it apart was a real test in patience, getting around linkage to accelerator pump was stumping me, called a friend/mechanic, he told me about the roll pin, then laughed.

I'd managed to get the top off and back on with the dang thing still attached, it was like a Rubik's Cube with all those rods hanging down and the pump spring pushing up. This was the simple carb everyone was talking about? Patience.....
Needle valve was stuck in the bore, cleaned up some stuff and put it back together....lots easier this time! Then..

Going over to my friend's shop this afternoon to really get into this carb. Still, it almost started! and I found a few leak to cure...getting closer!

View attachment 1258610

 

[120mm]

Saturday

Had some time, so I cleaned up the gas tank well and put some rubber strips in. Is the red paint an undercoat, or do you think it's original color?

That is the original color. "Freeborn Red" from what I can tell.

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

It's similar to Freeborn Red but in 1964 it would have been Seminole Red

 

[NKC]

Wow, fantastic! Thanks! Seminole Red, sounds good.

 

[NKC]

 

[NKC]

Rear Axle puzzle

Now that I can go, guess it's time to make it stop. Before I bled the brakes, looked like something had run out of the brakes before so I pulled the drum off. Got the drum retaining screw off after only a little heat and penetrating oil. One cylinder was wet, now to decide on converting to disc or ordering all these parts.

Since the front axle has been changed, I don't know if this is a 1964 axle or not. Searching the forum I find rear diff covers held on with studs, this one has bolts. (Came in handy 'cause the drain plug is rounded off, and I could drain the old oil by removing the bottom bolt.)

Haven't found a way to determine the year, were there years when bolts were used instead of studs maybe? Like to make sure before the parts ordering can begin.

 

[White Stripe]

It's totally worth converting the rear to disc. The dual wheel cylinder setup is a ancient design and a pain in the but. Is the rear axle have the differential in the center or offset?

 

[NKC]

Offset.
I found this thread , sounds like a good way to go:
Rear Disc Brakes...

 

[bikersmurf]

'Seal All' sets up when exposed to gas. It will fix leaks till the metal it's stuck to is gone.

I'd never go back to drums after going to 4 discs.

I'd convert the Dana 70 I've got to discs if it didn't also have an e-brake.

 

[cult45]

Sounds good! Those gauges look mint! What are they?

 

[NKC]

VDO gauges in what looks like a home made panel.

 

[cult45]

Thanks mate!

 

[NKC]

Drained the boxes, didn't do the 'make sure fill hole plug comes out' thing, should have, will from now on....
Drain plug was on transfer case was finger loose

What came out of transmission was ugly stuff

Rear diff drain plug totally rounded off, removed lowest bolt and it all drained out, front diff everything came apart good. I think I'm going to get those new drain and fill plugs with 10mm allen head. Gonna take some work to get the rear drain plug out.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The tranny looks like that because at some point the truck was outside with no top. Rainwater that falls on the shift handle runs down the handle and accumulates inside the trans. Water is heavier than oil, so it goes to the bottom of the trans and is covered by the gear oil, preventing the water from evaporating. As long as the tranny still shifts all the gears (not rusted solid), might as well change the gear oil, drive & change a few more times until drain oil is reasonably clean or tranny burns up.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Since the front axle has been changed, I don't know if this is a 1964 axle or not. Searching the forum I find rear diff covers held on with studs, this one has bolts. (Came in handy 'cause the drain plug is rounded off, and I could drain the old oil by removing the bottom bolt.)
View attachment 1266303
Haven't found a way to determine the year, were there years when bolts were used instead of studs maybe? Like to make sure before the parts ordering can begin.

If the rear cover is off, rotate the ring gear and write down all the numbers stamped on the outer edge of the gear. IIRC, the ratio and date code are encoded there.

Axle prior to mid '65 use M8 fasteners to retain rear cover & diff assembly. 65-later use M10 fasteners.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Did you get any clear water out of your tranny. I found water in my 76 and decided to replace the bearings. A couple were pretty rusty. Surprisingly the gears wear unharmed buy the h2o. Georg told me to run the first batch of tranny oil with a splash of ATF.

 

[NKC]

No clear water, just the nasty stuff in the picture. It did sit out with no gear boot for who knows how long. It was in the desert, so things could have been worse. I'll do the drive and change a time or two, then put GL4 in it. I'm almost to the driving point, pretty excited to see what happens next!

 

[NKC]

Got to thinking, maybe best to change oil in the engine before really driving it. Dipstick oil looked great, no idea about how long it's been there. Looked up the oil filter...the company has been out of business for a while, I'd say it's a good indication of a long oil change interval.

 

[NKC]

IH8brakes

Been trying to get some braking action now it goes, tried my Mityvac but couldn't get anything to come out. A lot of wasted time. And getting the spouse to help bleed the brakes is bad for marital bliss.
Ordered a Motive Power bleeder to keep it a one person job.

It worked, pretty messy, getting the adapter to seal on the M/C was not easy or totally successful, but it allowed me to discover that 5 of the six bleeders were totally plugged with junk. That's why the little Vac didn't work. It was a long few days fiddling around with this stuff, sure glad my new from Ebay reconditioned window A/C came in on Thursday. The old one wasn't getting he job done anymore.

Now I have brakes! Time for a shakedown run up the county line and back, just a few miles really.

Ran poorly, steering not good, wandered badly, radiator cap leaked and I thought it was running hot at the end. Temp gauge ran up about 200 right away then stayed around there. When I stopped is when the leaking overflow began. But.... I had brakes! Though I can tell I've been spoiled by power brakes.
Back home, checked the timing, way way off. Runs much better now, it's really neat.
Radiator cap is old and seals cracking.
Checked online, seems these old TBI engines came with 190 thermostats, and sure enough, this one does too. Hadn't realized until setting the timing it's got a Flex fan on it, completely flattens out right off idle, I'm getting rid of that quick, don't trust 'em to stay together either.
The wandering steering, I can move the stuff around easily by hand, I don't see any slop, but should it be this easy to rotate around?

 

[tlc762]

First- your steering wander issues. What suspension/shackles are on your truck? Have you checked the caster angle- you may need shims to correct for lift/extended shackles. Also check your toe in on the front- it is easy with it up on jackstands- use two leveled strait edges clamped to the lower face of the rotors and measure the lengths about 18" from axle center front and rear-try search for details. Your tie rod ends are a ball and socket joint-there will be rotational movement like you demonstrated in the video (to allow for suspension travel)- there should not be longitudinal movement (in line with the length on the rod to which it is attached).

Second-the front wheel shims on the hub. They may have been added to prevent interference between the wheel and brake caliper and/or the wheel and steering arm. Though the bolt pattern matches the common 4wd chevy pattern (6x5 1/2") there can be issues with fitting clamp on wheels to the front end on a land cruiser due to backspacing and rear side interference with the brake caliper. For example I used stick on wheel weights on the inside of my '74 with '80's chevy rally wheels to avoid clearance issues with the steering arms which lead to different clearance issues once i did the rear disc conversion-%$^^#. The stick on weights hit the monte carlo calipers. Welcome to the madness...
HTH,
Will