Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"

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Thanks Dan @cruiserdan. Just got the same info from city racer. 👍

I’m assuming the gap and dwell specs are the same for this dizzy as stated in my 1966 F-Engine Repair Manual, 0.016”-0.020” and 38-44 deg, respectively? I ask because checking things the other day my gap was well below this spec (as well as the dwell) and I never checked it out of the box on initial installation 7 years ago 😂. I guess this under-spec could be due to wear. Another interesting thing is when I increased the gap to around 0.018” the dwell went up which is the opposite of what the repair manual says. đŸ€·â€â™‚ïž
 
Point gap, .018 inch.
Dwell angle, 39-43 degrees.

I think of point gap as a starting point. Measured dwell is more precise.
 
So last question @cruiserdan 
 do you think a faulty or failing condenser might be contributing/causing my speed hut electronic tachometer to jump erratically?
 
I don't have enough knowledge to suggest a specific component. I would suspect that anything in the current path could be suspect. Points, condenser, grounds, maybe the tach? Do you have an alternate tach you could substitute?
 
Yeah I’ll do some more testing but order a new condenser just in case. Thanks for the help.
 
I have always done points and condenser at the same time. One without the other is like taking a shower and then putting your dirty shorts back on. :lol:
 
I could go electronic, at some point maybe. My ‘65 SBC 40 with an old 283 has a cheap electronic dizzy, $50 off of ebay 16 years ago, still going strong. I have a second $50 cheap one on the shelf for backup in case the first one dies 😂.
 
@cruiserdan, or anyone, I don’t have any manual or such for these non-USA OEM distributors, do you know if there is a lubrication point or such on these for lubricating the shaft, etc. other than via disassembly? The original distributor has an oil cap per the f-engine repair manual.
 
It’s alive! Bad points, but has new ones now and a condenser and coil. Condenser and coil were both still good, but when I thought the coil was bad I ordered a new, so spare time 😂. Dwell’s at 45 with a gap of 0.018”. I’ll increase that a smidgeon to get the dwell down a smidgeon. The tach no longer bounces around, nice and steady đŸ„ł so an electronic tach is a good tool for indicating ignition issues. Cow Ice Cream truck is back in business.
 
Caution: long diatribe for documentation purposes:

I ordered the Toyota points and condenser from amayama, that was the only place that I found via google that had the Toyota part numbers mentioned above by @cruiserdan. It took a couple of weeks for them to supposedly show up at their warehouse in the UAE per my account info, then after a couple of weeks of saying they were packing them to be shipped I get a notice this morning that the points are N/A (from Toyota I presume) so the order is cancelled. In the meantime, a couple of weeks ago, I ordered third party points (United Motor Products CP003) and condenser (Wells 5H1152) from Rockauto, just to be safe and as backups. Both parts cross referenced to the Toyota part numbers, and the picture that Rockauto has for the United points actually shows “Japan” stamped on the base. They showed up yesterday and are installed and working (previous post). The United Motor Products points box says made in China 😠, and there is no marking of “Japan” or such on the parts. Except for a black contact wire instead of a white wire they look identical to the original ones that came with the Toyota distributor. The Wells condenser is actually the exact same as was in the distributor when purchased new per the markings on the body of the condenser (looks like ND so guessing NipponDenso).

I want to order another set as backup, and I can reorder the Rockauto ones since amayama won’t be sending me anything, but does anyone know who might still have access to ‘Toyota’ ones, if available?
 
Have you called your local dealer?
 
Well that’s too logical 😂. I have called (local is still 30+ miles away) about other old cruiser parts in the past with little success so it’s not an automatic thing for me now. Too easy to push buttons on my ipad.
 

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