Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (1 Viewer)

[middlecalf]

Hey JP @ClemsonCruiser not sure if your watching but question wrt the dual offy carb setup. I’m more familiar with lean running issues for carb setups, but I think I’m dealing with an over rich issue with this dual offy thing. Did you have any issues with yours and if so what did you do to lean it out - a bit, I’d rather be a bit rich than a bit lean. (That’s engine talk, not finance )

 

[middlecalf]

More mileage today, more smoke and oil burning. And a bad acceleration stumble with occasional carb spit. So maybe I’m lean, not rich. I’ll keep messing with carbs, these Carter WA-1’s are somewhat foreign to me.

Cruzin’ in style. I guess I need to start thinking about seat cushions and covers. Driver’s is later model, passenger‘s is original but haven’t found any info on how they were put together.

 

[wngrog]

I have a nice intake, big Window and OEM lines If you want to punt all that

 

[middlecalf]

Well that’s an option for one of the issues I’m dealing with. How many arms and legs will that cost?

But first a general question, related however little it might seem: Are the SD40, or Aisin single barrel et al, carbs vacumetric?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Post up some detailed pics of your seats and some bottom length and width measurements. I can help you figure out which kit to use. Im running non 45 seats in my 45. New foam is awesome compared to stock sink in the chair stuff.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

To compare. I think we have the same drivers seat. You can goto my thread for more detailed pics

 

[middlecalf]

Will do, I’m following your build @tornadoalleycruiser , full of awesomeness to say the least. Thanks for the help.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

If the bottom needs to be clearanced for a different leg position I can assist. Might need an extra piece of fabric to stitch for you

 

[middlecalf]

Here’s what I have - the passenger is original to the ‘63 I believe, the driver is later, it’s like the one in my ‘65. I haven’t found a ‘63 (really ‘62) seat, I think they’re similar to the FJ25 seats from what I’ve been able to find.

Driver’s

I used the SOR kit in my ‘65 that had the foam, covers and screws. It worked and figured that would work for this one if it’s used. I have a metal back for it. I would remove the slider mechanism - not needed for the SWB fixed top, as I would never need to move the seat forward unless a five year old was going to drive it . That looks like it will reduce the seat height by an inch or so. That’s ok, given the passenger seat doesn’t have the springs. I also need to remove and replace the hold down thingys on the front where the tool box clips secure - these are at 9” spacing or so and the early triangle tool boxes use 7” spacing.

Passenger’s

I think this is original. I also have a metal back for it. Not sure what’s used for base for bottom as well as back. If foam, ok for back but bottom needs something firmer? Don’t think those three wiggly spring wires would suffice by themselves. I think the FJ25 seats are similar, and if so then the bottom cushion is attached only along the front so it can be tilted forward for access to fuel tank (why though?).

It would be nice to have these seats the same height (bottoms), that’s the way it is in my ‘65 FJ40. Which means if I use both of these I’ll have to do the driver’s first since it’s taller then match the passenger as best I can.

I forgot measurements. Next trip to the shop. Looking for 7 missing cow/calf pairs, lots of time in the saddle. Giddyup

 

[middlecalf]

Pulling plug wires 1 and 6 doesn’t change idle. Both have spark though. What does that tell me? Are they not getting fuel? @whitey45 ?

 

[whitey45]

Time for a compression check

 

[middlecalf]

Yup, tomorrow. I did one a few weeks ago after an initial drive, everything was 125 to 130. And I forgot to open the throttle, so doesn’t seem bad. We’ll see tomorrow.

 

[whitey45]

Can be vacuum leaks too

 

[middlecalf]

Friday or Saturday’s test when my vacuum tester gets here. But deer opens Saturday.

 

[cult45]

Chiming in from far, far away with the basics in case you missed anything.

1. Comp test, dry then wet. Record results.
2. Valve train adjustment as per FSM.
3. Re-set base timing with a good light. Dizzy isn't off by a tooth?
4. Check plug gaps and heat range.
5. Leads serviceable?
6. Dizzy fully seated with new points and condensor, as well as correct gap?
7. Dizzy cap in good order?
8. Engine has two nice, thick ground straps?
9. All vac lines are sound?
10. Carb-to-intake gaskets are sealing?
11. No exhaust or intake leaks, or blockages?
12. Coil in good order? Coil is correct type? Wired correctly?
13. Fuel tank is clean, lines and filters are clear, pump is clean and clear with no blockages?
14. Fuel line is correct diameter for requirements?
15. Alternator functioning correctly at all rev ranges?
16. Battery in good condition?
17. Carbs: needle and seat isn't stuck? Float height is correct? Carb body isn't full of grit? Gaskets aren't dry and perished? Any internal passages blocked? Are there any other [insert carb knowledge here] issues?
18. Are the valve stem seals dry and perished?

Even though you may be able to mentally tick these things off as done, it may be a good exercise to physically go through these points again just in case.

 

[middlecalf]

Good list @cult45 . Working through most of it, 2nd and third times for some of them.

So at timing on ball, 8-deg. advanced or so, the vacuum off the intake manifold is between 15 and 16 inHg (lol I think those are the units), pretty steady with very slight flicker. The rig is at 3400 ft ASL. When I advance the dizzy to around 20-deg BTDC, the vacuum rises to right around 17, and at 30-deg BTDC the vacuum is slightly over 17. Idle was kept around 650-750 rpm reading from the installed tach, my timing light doesn’t have rpms. At the higher timings, I can now hear a noticeable drop in the idling when I pull #1 spark plug, and a very faint drop when #6 is pulled. #6 had the lowest compression from previous test, 125 psi (carb throttle was not open), the rest 130-135. I drove the rig at all three timings, and the higher timing was pretty good - but not good enough IMO - on level road. As soon as I tried any hills, even minor, the rig bogged and had very little power. No advance pinging of any sort that I could ascertain. Downhill it zooms great with power, even into 3rd gear, and no popping at all at high rpms and no throttle (my favorite lean test).

Thoughts anyone?

 

[middlecalf]

And while I’m waiting for it to snow, I picked up the 6B Boise Co. plates from flea bay. I pay Boise Co. taxes but my mailing address is in Gem Co. I can drive a golf ball from my front yard to the county line, . That’s why I picked up the 1G Gem plates from @Owyhee Jackass. Some of our rigs are licensed in Gem, some in Boise, doesn‘t really matter in Idaho. In 3+ years I never saw either county plates for 1963 - this state allows original manufacture year plates - until recently, now I have to decide if I like 1G or 6B. ‘Course if this rig continues to run like crap I guess I should put on 2C plates (inside Idaho joke).

 

[middlecalf]

Here’s my current seat status. I removed the slider part of the drivers, it sits a little lower. I’m not sure what the base for the passenger should be given it doesn’t have the springs like the drivers.

 

[Michael B]

Paul would this help? It is from a RHD 78’ 45. But I think it could work.

 

[middlecalf]

Hey Michael - interesting, that has the same brackets and tilt locking mechanism as the driver‘s side back. What is the distance between the brackets, inside to inside? That would be a first check. Thanks! Wonder if I can find seat springs?