Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (1 Viewer)

[middlecalf]

Compression test history.

 

[wngrog]

That’s great compression. I have the SD40 and lines listed for $700 but would put it on this project for $500 shipped. All the lines from the tank to the fuel pump are OEM and good with fittings

SOLD - SD40 Big Window, glass filter and OE lines

Great Carb. Ran perfectly when pulled. Lines have no cracks. This all came out of a running truck $700 for all. Buyer pays shipping. Prefer to sell as a package. No blue behind the glass but other than that this is the whole deal.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[cult45]

That's great compression! This reference will probably be lost on most but it reminds of that scene in Crimson Tide when the 'Bama is sinking and all hope is lost and the COB is like, 'Approaching hull crush depth. 1825 feet.. and rising!'. Hopefully you have the same triumph 'Zel had.

Interesting the compression is increasing though. Either way it's good news. With comps that healthy it's hard to claim its a valvetrain issue. So it's all carb I'm guessing. Can you bugger the twin setup off and get a single on there just for now? Even the shame of a functioning 2F Aisin for now would be better than your failing twin-carb deal.

 

[middlecalf]

I suspect that as the engine gets used the rings are seating better from a long hibernation so the compression numbers are getting better. Still not sure about oil usage though. Still some smoking, could be gunked up valves or leaking seals, although the steady vacuum reading doesn’t point to that.

@wngrog that’s a fair deal, I’d have to find a manifold. But I want to try a couple of things first. Thanks.

 

[wngrog]

I suspect that as the engine gets used the rings are seating better from a long hibernation so the compression numbers are getting better. Still not sure about oil usage though. Still some smoking, could be gunked up valves or leaking seals, although the steady vacuum reading doesn’t point to that.

@wngrog that’s a fair deal, I’d have to find a manifold. But I want to try a couple of things first. Thanks.

I have a good manifold here too if you decide to. No problem

 

[63cruiser]

Thought about your distributor? Got a refurbished one from @4Cruisers and mine runs much better. The old distributor shaft was worn and caused a wobble that provided inconsistent firing. Not noticeable at idle but under acceleration, it really caused some stumbling. He noted that few distributors he finds nowadays to rebuild are within Toyota spec. He was working on a solution for new bushings and bearings to take the wobble out but not sure he has found a solution yet. Might be worth a try or at least further investigation

 

[Michael B]

Paul it measures 29 1/4” between the arms at the front bolt hole.

 

[whitey45]

I would look at the dist too, have had several f engines run so so, the minute I plop in a gm hei, it’s like night and day.( I bought a cheap hei from ebay( Chinese special under $100) it has been flawless for a couple years now.,,

 

[middlecalf]

Thanks Michael. I’ll check those in a bit.

@63cruiser @whitey45 I have a new non-USA dizzy on it from city racer.

 

[middlecalf]

@Michael B my seat frame measures 30-1/2" outside to outside and 28-1/2" inside to inside. So your back would have to sit on top of the frame and I'd have to weld on a metal flange for it to bolt to. Not sure if that extra height is an issue, it would move the back forward to retain clearance from the back of the cab. My '65 has that type of back and it bolts to the outside of the frame, so it's narrower than this '63 frame. But I didn't have a tape measure when I looked at it. Still don't know what to do about the seat base for support, not sure what was originally there for cushion and support but maybe those three squiggly wires is enough support as long as I don't shuttle a Kardashian. (Oh sure, I brought that up again @wngrog )

I do have metal backs for both seats, so for passenger I figured just a foam back pad would work. But then I'm probably into custom seat covers as that depth would be different than something later stock like yours Michael so SOR's kit wouldn't fit.

 

[Michael B]

Here are a couple of pictures of my 78’ seat bottom. I think this might help.

 

[middlecalf]

Is that the original ‘78 seat? My ‘65 has the springs sitting on a metal base. I guess I need more squigglies on the ‘63. Where’d you get your covers?

 

[Michael B]

That is the original seat for my 78’. Those blue seat covers were from a P.O. I modified and installed 79’ and newer seats during the rebuild. I hand them recovered at a local upholstery shop.

 

[middlecalf]

Gurus - if I have a vacuum leak would I have a vacuum reading of 18 inHg at idle (~650 rpms)?

 

[middlecalf]

Researching my run time issue I came across this person‘s explanation of their problem (non-cruiser) which was a good description of where I’m at right now :
“The car starts up immediately without having to give it any throttle. The idle is stable and it revs cleanly when the car is out of gear with no load. The car can be driven gently and will accelerate very slowly at slight throttle <I’m a little better than this on level ground or downhill>. As soon as I try to give it a little more juice or jab the throttle, it falls on its face, sometimes revving back up for a second before bogging down again.“

He solved his problem with new fuel pump. My pump is new but @cult45 asked a while back if the cruiser pump would keep up with dual carbs. Good question, I’ll have to add fuel pressure and volume to my hunt. JP @ClemsonCruiser did you experience any fuel delivery issues in your dual carb‘d rig?

In addition to this, I’m still working through lean issue tests and rich Issue tests. I have carboned-up plugs, so that points to rich, but no black smoke, just gray smoke probably from oil burning, so might be carbon source. I’ve got rig max’d at 18 inches of vacuum at 650 rpm and ~20 deg BTDC witn a sub-1 point flicker. “Bog” seems to be a problem in the power step or transition from mid step to power step under load.

 

[middlecalf]

 

[whitey45]

Too rich, too much fuel!!! Humor me aand disconnect one carb and run it on one. Yes it will run, leave the other one alone. Go drive it and report back!

 

[middlecalf]

Yes sir! How do I stop idle and low speed fuel from getting past the unhooked (throttle) carb? Or don't worry about that?

 

[whitey45]

Don’t worry!

 

[middlecalf]

I’ll let you know (after I chase a few deer around)