Bear
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If Rex isn't available............................... !
Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter middlecalf
- Start date
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- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
- Threads
- 89
- Messages
- 3,678
- Location
- Harbour City, the New Southern Wales
- Website
- www.freewayoneentertainment.com
So you must be feeling better abut things then @middlecalf? What's next on the list?
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #783
Always better getting over thresholds. My wife says I have too many thresholds, “borrowing trouble” she calls it. 
1) some pickups, like running boards, rear wire harness and rear lights.
2) get back to running/driving the motor to get past the serious smoking. Hopefully a good cleaning via seafoam and driving will do that.
3) I won’t be using this over the winter, so that will probably be the tub and door repair timeframe. Lots of work in those. And the seats, I’ll use the seat interchangeably from my 40 for test driving.
1) some pickups, like running boards, rear wire harness and rear lights.
2) get back to running/driving the motor to get past the serious smoking. Hopefully a good cleaning via seafoam and driving will do that.
3) I won’t be using this over the winter, so that will probably be the tub and door repair timeframe. Lots of work in those. And the seats, I’ll use the seat interchangeably from my 40 for test driving.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #784
These are on with new covers. Went with the traditional black.
What?
Ok, at least I went with the traditional diamond plate pattern. Every cruiser should have some diamond plate on it.
What? (again
)
At least the floor mats I’m making out of the same material will match.
What?
Ok, at least I went with the traditional diamond plate pattern. Every cruiser should have some diamond plate on it.
What? (again
)At least the floor mats I’m making out of the same material will match.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #785
With the longer replacement front brake lines shorter springs are needed to utilize the same location as stock.
I’d never screw with those damn front drums again. Have you seen if they will stop it yet?
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #787
Yeah they stop, not great right now but I’ll adjust them up after I drive this some and work everything in.
But my driving doesn’t require commuting in heavy fast moving (and stopping) traffic. If it did I would look at at least front disks.
But my driving doesn’t require commuting in heavy fast moving (and stopping) traffic. If it did I would look at at least front disks.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #788
Rear wire harness time. Building a new one as the one I have has several splices in each wire - puzzling why it goes from stock wire colors to generic white or black wires then back to stock in several places. Functional but wall of shame class.
I’m trying to understand how the brake lights get their power. There are two wires at each combination light - a G one that gets its power from the light switch, so turns on both rear lights and the license plate light; and a GO or GY wire that gets its power through the turn signal switch, so turns on that side’s turn light. This is the pic in the body manual:
The GW wire isn’t connected, not sure what it‘s for (On edit: maybe for a center brake only light)
So where do the brake lights get their power? That should be from the brake light switch (Stop Switch) at the brake pedal. That’s one of the GW wires in this body manual pic (the other GW wire splices into R wire at the fuse block, so full time power):
The switched GW wire then goes to the turn signal switch (#6 Stop Switch):
The only thing I can think is that the #6 Stop Switch wire is jumpered to both #3 Rear Left and #4 Rear Right inside the turn signal switch so when brake pedal is pushed power runs from the GW wire into GO and GY wires lighting those lights. If the turn signal is engaged, additional current is sent to the GO or GY wire via the #5 Source of Electricity GL wire and that bulb burns brighter (intermittently from flasher).
Can’t figure out any other way. @Coolerman any better thoughts?
on edit: actually I think the turn signal switch is built to override the brake light for the side the turn signal is employed - so that side only flashes while the other gets a solid brake light.
I’m trying to understand how the brake lights get their power. There are two wires at each combination light - a G one that gets its power from the light switch, so turns on both rear lights and the license plate light; and a GO or GY wire that gets its power through the turn signal switch, so turns on that side’s turn light. This is the pic in the body manual:
The GW wire isn’t connected, not sure what it‘s for (On edit: maybe for a center brake only light)
So where do the brake lights get their power? That should be from the brake light switch (Stop Switch) at the brake pedal. That’s one of the GW wires in this body manual pic (the other GW wire splices into R wire at the fuse block, so full time power):
The switched GW wire then goes to the turn signal switch (#6 Stop Switch):
The only thing I can think is that the #6 Stop Switch wire is jumpered to both #3 Rear Left and #4 Rear Right inside the turn signal switch so when brake pedal is pushed power runs from the GW wire into GO and GY wires lighting those lights. If the turn signal is engaged, additional current is sent to the GO or GY wire via the #5 Source of Electricity GL wire and that bulb burns brighter (intermittently from flasher).
Can’t figure out any other way. @Coolerman any better thoughts?
on edit: actually I think the turn signal switch is built to override the brake light for the side the turn signal is employed - so that side only flashes while the other gets a solid brake light.
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47coeman
Love those 45's
Looks like it turned out nice with a bit of work on your end ———- job getting close for you to use it.
Enjoy, Skip
Enjoy, Skip
Don’t try to figure out why they work, just plug them in right
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #791
I’m building the harness, kind of need to know what’s what to make sure it’s built right, don’t I?
It you have the original as a base just extend it out to fill the gaps.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #793
Pic shows the Toyota replacement lights (both have same wires). G wire is obvious. What plugs into the GW wire? Right now I’m assuming the GO and GY wires. The third party wiring diagram (for this year) doesn’t match either.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #794
Got it. GW is probably for two bulb trailer brake lights. Looks like there’s also suppose to be a dual female plug for G wire for trailer running lights.
The GW wire is for the TRAILER brake light wiring, not the brake lights on the FJ40. Just leave the GW wire unconnected.
The FJ40 brake signal goes from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch where it is split and sent to each brake light. When you activate, say the left turn signal switch, the left side is disconnected from the brake light switch and connected to the flasher causing the brake light on that side to flash. Just like Living in the Past stated!
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middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #795
If you want or need original, don’t get these. If you want something that works, can use existing mounting and wiring harness connections (ground wires and a jumper connection for drivers side needed), is inexpensive, kind of elephant horn in style, made in Japan (and shipped from there), and LOUD, get these.
But if you need instructions, you have to read Japanese.
Name cracks me up, they’re not giga in size, nor frequency (400 and 500 MHz), but pretty giga in loudness. My wife inside the house could hear me honking from inside the shop which is 700ft from the shop.
Don’t have an Apple app for sound pressure level measurement.
But if you need instructions, you have to read Japanese
.Name cracks me up, they’re not giga in size, nor frequency (400 and 500 MHz), but pretty giga in loudness. My wife inside the house could hear me honking from inside the shop which is 700ft from the shop.
Don’t have an Apple app for sound pressure level measurement.
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You are stalling for snow so we don’t get to see this running and driving
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #797
Almost have the rear harness in, then everything that requires crawling in/under the rig to get on will be on. I don't drive on pavement, so once this gets driven it will be dirty, very. And that sucks building on a very dirty rig.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #798
100% on all electrical, but I have to get the fuel tank filled to see how well the fuel gauge is working. It’s one of those early non-linear voltage sending units so the testing is not straight forward. Also, got a new turn signal switch ordered, existing one works but it’s been impossible to find a location on the column that enables both left and right turn signals to function.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #799
I was able to disassemble and repair the switch I have. The shaft that turns the lever that moves the switch from left to right was loose (red circled area in pic posted by @WhiteyFJ40) so I just tapped that down to tighten it up. It now fully engages both directions of switch.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #800
I put about 10 miles on the rig today after I did a SeaFoam upper engine treatment. Lots of smoke still - intermittent in intensity - but the blowing of black oil is minimal now, if not gone. I think there was a fair amount of residual burnt oil from last run in the exhaust train. Struggled with performance, esp. with giving it the gas. Worked on it a bit - idle adjustment mostly - and have somewhat better performance now. A long ways to go. I guess I just keep pushing it to see if the smoking goes away? Another SeaFoam treatment? I’ll pull and clean the plugs before next mosquito smoke treatment run.
Good news is the fuel gauge works!
Good news is the fuel gauge works!
