Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"

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You could try to make this kit work.

 
I had a hole in my top about in the same place. antennae or light wiring was my guess. Welded a plug in and ground it smooth.

Those gutters are repairable. Better than having no top for sure.

The hole in the compound curve part of the top is gonna be tough.

Wonder if you could use your top for a fiberglass mold. For that matter, you could use mine for a mold if you wanted to deal with the shipping and everything. I'm not interested in selling mine, but it will never go back on the truck. I can't fit in it with the top and doors on.
 
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Those gutters are repairable. Better than having no top for sure.

Wonder if you could use your top for a fiberglass mold.
Gutter build getting there, a lot of cleanup/grinding still. Thought about fiberglass, but I’ll see what I can make of the metal remnant. Have sand bag and shaping mallet in hand. Probably be a 10-footer at best.
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Nope, 18-ga steel sheet metal, China freight break press, dewalt and Dremel cutoff wheels and grinding disks, and Lincoln electric mig welder. And some guessing and inventing. Couple of swear words. No injuries or virus infestation, so far. Hard part is next, fitting what’s left of the dome onto the gutter with replacement flange and front corners. Bang bang bang. Ok, maybe this’ll be a 20-ft’r.

CCOT probably would have been easier, and faster.
 
Nice work!
How do you like the HF break/press?, does it have the roll also?
Been thinking of getting one of those.
 
This is the one I have 36 in. Metal Brake with Stand

It works good with pieces in the teens of inches in length and shorter, 18ga and even 16ga. But the 30 inch 18ga pieces I was bending for the drip rail were tough and a challenge to get sufficient clamping in the middle of the pieces. So I was able to get a start but then “finish” in my vice with a rubber mallet (not metal or hard, it will dent the metal). Maybe the roll one (x2 cost) has better uniform clamping. So this is with new mild steel. The old John Deere steel I bent for the fixes on the cab bent much easier, even some that was heavier - 14ga. Not sure why, the old stuff just had surface rust, but maybe it was less annealed???

One thing I figured out (but towards the end of the build 😞) was to bend flanges wider than needed (needed is around 0.4” for the outside drip rail) if possible, then trim them to size after bending. That helps with the clamping, not a perfect solution, but better than trying to clamp narrow pieces.
 
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The curved sections are built pieces, not bent/rolled. That takes a serious bead roller. So a flat piece cut to shape of bend, then two pieces bent to curve for inner/outer lips, tack welded to flat piece. Then lots of grinding, and given the size and access, the Dremel with grinder disks is the tool. Yawn tech over.
 
Filled a few dash holes. Had the volt meter for a while otherwise I’d prefer one with a red needle.
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Capt Booger Welds
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Welding from inside with copper backing on outside, will get the four new straight flange sections in, then good corners, then bad corners, then bad spots on top. That’s the plan. We’ll see, not a lot of great metal left.
 
No pictures but all of the cruisers survived a 6.5 earthquake 75 miles from us at 5:53pm today.
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Yeah. I was online with guys all around the country. The guy from California immediately said “you‘re having an earthquake“ from the bouncing zoom screen, lol. We rocked and rolled for 20+ seconds, no damage though (yet) thank goodness.
 
Yeah. I was online with guys all around the country. The guy from California immediately said “you‘re having an earthquake“ from the bouncing zoom screen, lol. We rocked and rolled for 20+ seconds, no damage though (yet) thank goodness.
we just had one here in SLC two weeks ago, along with a few hundred after shocks...
 
Yeah you guys have been rockin‘ a lot lately. I guess it keeps our minds off of viruses. “We don’t need no stinking virus”
 

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