Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

That's dream livin' right there!
 
Hey why is your carb dirty? You mean the exterior from excessive dust, not the inside right?
 
Good question @cult45! This hasn‘t happened (yet 😂) on the 45 with dual Carter WA-1 carbs, this is on my SBC 40 with a Carter AFB carb. The outside is dirty but the fuel bowl vent is susceptible to letting dirt get sucked into the bowls (there are two on an AFB). The WA-1s don’t have fuel bowl vents. I have two Aisin SD40 carbs on the shelf that someday I might get rebuilt and put on the 45 - or just one on an OEM single carb manifold - and I don’t think they have vents either so this may not be a problem with them.

I’ve looked into disabling the AFB vent but not sure if I’ll vapor lock the bowls. I have a filter on the inlet of the vent but it still lets dirt in - it doesn‘t take much! The AFBs are also documented to be prone to low speed venturi fuel-fouling. I use non-ethanol gas so don’t know why this happens, however, the air filter needs cleaning frequently (K&N filter). I also have to blow the dry grass and junk out of the engine bay (and underside) after running in the hills - to help in avoiding starting a fire 😂 - and that probably doesn’t help with carb junk ingestion.

Since I just got this all back together on the 45 I wanted to check that I was not running overly lean and that downhill load test will indicate that right away. I love the rumble of a well-running motor on open-throttled downhill runs.

Sheez, that was quite the diatribe 😂.
 
Last edited:
Fwiw, k&n filters let alot of dirt in, especially if not well oiled.
@whitey45 as I’m sure you already know this is how they get their claimed horsepower gains. There’s a lab test somewhere (I saw several years ago) that compared a K&N filter vs a stock paper filter vs another aftermarket filter. Both the K&N and AF filter let a significant amount of particulate thru where the paper stock filter stopped more of the particulates.
 
I’d be replacing a paper element every couple of weeks during the summer. I use Spectre’s on the SBC.
 
I‘m still thinking of putting mine back in service, that’s why I put the mounting bracket back on after pulling the head so I wouldn’t have to untorque those head bolts at a later date and possibly compromise the head gasket. My unit is modified to accommodate the offenhauser dual carb setup. Curious as to other‘s experience as well but a valid comparison to my situation would require continuous use in a very dusty environment with moderate incline and lean angles, not a mall or Saturday morning coffee runner on suburban streets.
 
Sweet. Simplicity! 😆
 
The oil bath filters do work well, it's almost like they were engineered from the factory to complement the use of the landcruiser for the day. Who would of thought. Which is probably worse conditions than most people drive a cruiser in anymore, not all but most. Clean, easy, simple designs work well. Both my 45s have the factory filters and no issues. My green cruiser got used all the time in dusty gravel roads that's where it was happy.
 
@middlecalf must feel good to get it back on the road? Just the gratification of getting it going again and doing the work.
My new 45 is nice to drive but doesn't have the same feeling as driving my green one that I've done everything to right or wrong I've done the work on it and know the rig and the story behind why things are the way they are. Hard to pick a favorite to drive just depends what I'm doing but have to say my pig is my go to for anything and everywhere. My 40 I love just don't drive as much as I once did when it was the only running rig I owned. Always fun to keep them alive and going. Great project on your end very nice
 
Yes, feels great! Hoping the rig continues to run adequately so I can use it as i intended but couldn’t last summer.
 
One ..two .three..5 dancing in a field (°!°). .gif
One ..two .three..5 dancing in a field (°!°)..jpeg
 
Last edited:
4wd checkout. A little snow cattin’ ☃️
IMG_4255.JPG
 
Getting close to being done with everything, until I’m not 😂. Cross-post on rear windows install.
Mostly in. Two of sixteen screws still need to be installed (somehow) - the two upper and center ones next to the middle gasket.
View attachment 3180119
View attachment 3180147View attachment 3180150

I was wondering if the original screw holes would line up with the new gasket’s holes. Just how ‘instrumented‘ were these holes drilled originally at the factory install and therefore how much variance would exist between rigs? Twelve of the holes were close enough to each other, just a bit of finagling the gasket and screw to get the screws in the original holes. The lower holes near the inside corner needed to be redrilled (or could use self tapping screws) as the holes were 1/2” off, and I could get my close quarters drill in there to make new holes. As mentioned above, the upper centered holes on each side are not aligned, not sure how far off as it’s difficult to get hands and/or tools in there, and I can’t use any of my drill options. So those screws and holes are unused right now. I installed everything with glass in place. Maybe with glass out and just the gasket installed it would have been easier to install the screws but I’m not sure I’d have gotten the glass back in, esp. the fixed run.

Glass size is critical for fit and slidability of the slider pane. I used templates from @sofj45 and the laminated panes seem to fit pretty well. Stiff sliding right now, so I’ve fluid film’d the runs, we‘ll see how things go as time goes by. Rather than ground in finger grooves, I’ll put these on when they show up. Amazon product ASIN B00E4BHDJM. Hopefully they work.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom