A 200 is meant to have 37’s (4 Viewers)

[hoser]

285/70r17 is not a spec but rather a size. Just like a pair of jeans 34Wx36L is a size. 285mm is about 11.2" width... and that is the section width, measured at the widest part of sidewall. Mount that same tire on 8" wheel vs 9" wheel and the width will measure different... probably around 11.5"

 

[linuxgod]

No clue on how they measure, if there's an industry standard, etc. All I know is that no tire meets it's sidewall measurement once mounted, inflated and under a load.

You're correct. As @hoser points out, the actual way the measurements are created though is at max PSI and at the optimal rim width. Very few of us run at max PSI so your tires will always measure smaller.

 

[TeCKis300]

Tire Size vs. True Size

There's been some side discussions on manufacturers size vs true tire size. Let's discuss this as it's been a point of confusion. A lot of people seem to be measuring their tires and complaining that they are coming up short, e.g. my 35" tires are only 33.5". Why is that? Are the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[AnyMal]

The only real measure is how much larger your OD is to your last set!
Go big or go home! Anyone want a gently used set of 33s? LOL

 

[toofrigginswt]

Thanks to this thread and @MTKID ’s build thread, I was able to stuff 37s in. There’s definitely a wealth of knowledge here. Currently I’m on stock AHC with just a sensor lift. No body lift. Trimmed the front fender up about 1.5 inches but it looks like I need to go up another half inch or so. I had the pinch weld flattened and BMC for my 34s on zero offset already. With the 37s, the front driver still rubs the body mount on reverse. I’m adding in spc uca hoping to move the wheel forward properly.

I will also tackle the rear this week. Also have longer bumpstops coming in. This will definitely be a work in progress but I do see light at the end of the tunnel lol.

I wanted to share my progress with you guys and thank you guys for all of the tips!

 

[nwfl4runner]

Nice, does the 0 offset help you clear the frame on full lock? I was hitting there before swapping to tundra arms, but am on RW

 

[toofrigginswt]

Nice, does the 0 offset help you clear the frame on full lock? I was hitting there before swapping to tundra arms, but am on RW

Yes it clears the frame and everything on the inside except the body mount. This is the first time the 0 offset sort of worked in my favor. Lol. Driver side body mount seems to be hitting more than the passenger but that could have been just my uneven bmc work lol.

 

[toofrigginswt]

Nice, does the 0 offset help you clear the frame on full lock? I was hitting there before swapping to tundra arms, but am on RW

Also, should I start considering switching to Tundra arms?

 

[TeCKis300]

Thanks to this thread and @MTKID ’s build thread, I was able to stuff 37s in. There’s definitely a wealth of knowledge here. Currently I’m on stock AHC with just a sensor lift. No body lift. Trimmed the front fender up about 1.5 inches but it looks like I need to go up another half inch or so. I had the pinch weld flattened and BMC for my 34s on zero offset already. With the 37s, the front driver still rubs the body mount on reverse. I’m adding in spc uca hoping to move the wheel forward properly.

I will also tackle the rear this week. Also have longer bumpstops coming in. This will definitely be a work in progress but I do see light at the end of the tunnel lol.

I wanted to share my progress with you guys and thank you guys for all of the tips!

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Looks great! Any work on the rear axle? When stuffing, you might find that the tire is going to get up on the rear of the wheel well, liner and possibly bumper skin.

 

[toofrigginswt]

Looks great! Any work on the rear axle? When stuffing, you might find that the tire is going to get up on the rear of the wheel well, liner and possibly bumper skin.

I will probably tackle the rear tomorrow. So far I only removed the mud flaps and trimmed the bottom bumper skin about an inch over. I will most likely have to roll or fold the inside of the rear metal fender in so that the tire can tuck.

Looking at the pictures of the rear pinch weld that @nwfl4runner posted, I’m also assuming that I will need to cut that as well. I’ll know more when I take off the bumper I guess.

Hoping with the addition of longer bump stops, it won’t hit the top. Luckily I live very close to a 4x4 park so I can go there to carefully be reckless lol.

 

[tbisaacs]

I will probably tackle the rear tomorrow. So far I only removed the mud flaps and trimmed the bottom bumper skin about an inch over. I will most likely have to roll or fold the inside of the rear metal fender in so that the tire can tuck.

Looking at the pictures of the rear pinch weld that @nwfl4runner posted, I’m also assuming that I will need to cut that as well. I’ll know more when I take off the bumper I guess.

Hoping with the addition of longer bump stops, it won’t hit the top. Luckily I live very close to a 4x4 park so I can go there to carefully be reckless lol.

View attachment 3316519

Have you re-geared?

 

[nwfl4runner]

Yes it clears the frame and everything on the inside except the body mount. This is the first time the 0 offset sort of worked in my favor. Lol. Driver side body mount seems to be hitting more than the passenger but that could have been just my uneven bmc work lol.

Awsome

I will probably tackle the rear tomorrow. So far I only removed the mud flaps and trimmed the bottom bumper skin about an inch over. I will most likely have to roll or fold the inside of the rear metal fender in so that the tire can tuck.

Looking at the pictures of the rear pinch weld that @nwfl4runner posted, I’m also assuming that I will need to cut that as well. I’ll know more when I take off the bumper I guess.

Hoping with the addition of longer bump stops, it won’t hit the top. Luckily I live very close to a 4x4 park so I can go there to carefully be reckless lol.

View attachment 3316519

yup definitely need to cut that pinch area back. With the bumper skin off you’ll be amazed how much up travel is really there in the rear

 

[nwfl4runner]

Also, should I start considering switching to Tundra arms?

Honestly I only did the swap because my wheels/37s were hitting the frame/sway bar. The wider stance is nice at times but I feel like AHC doesn’t like the tundra shock angle as much. Plus mud freaking everywhere because the tires poke like crazy

 

[MTKID]

Also, should I start considering switching to Tundra arms?

I don’t think I’d recommend a Tundra swap. I think that’s going to put the wheel/tire too far out with zero offset wheels. They’re already out far enough to provide plenty of stability.

 

[toofrigginswt]

Have you re-geared?

Not yet. I know I’ll need to. Right now it feels sluggish upon take off for sure. The list of things to do just keeps growing. Lol. I want to save up for some lockers and regear at the same time.

Honestly I only did the swap because my wheels/37s were hitting the frame/sway bar. The wider stance is nice at times but I feel like AHC doesn’t like the tundra shock angle as much. Plus mud freaking everywhere because the tires poke like crazy

Understood.

I don’t think I’d recommend a Tundra swap. I think that’s going to put the wheel/tire too far out with zero offset wheels. They’re already out far enough to provide plenty of stability.

Yes coach!

 

[TeCKis300]

Honestly I only did the swap because my wheels/37s were hitting the frame/sway bar. The wider stance is nice at times but I feel like AHC doesn’t like the tundra shock angle as much. Plus mud freaking everywhere because the tires poke like crazy

Can you share more about what you mean regarding the tundra shock angles? Does it lean the AHC shock over more?

I also wonder how well the steering and traction control programming works with the long arms.

 

[MTKID]

Can you share more about what you mean regarding the tundra shock angles? Does it lean the AHC shock over more?

I also wonder how well the steering and traction control programming works with the long arms.

I’ll comment on the traction control since mine acts like it is slipping and traction control kicks in at slow speeds around tight corners/right angle turns. I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this yet. And I assumed it had to do with my tire size but since you mentioned the Tundra swap possibly causing this, I figured I’d mention it. Doesn’t happen every time, and never during spirited driving around pass switchbacks where I do push it a bit, just around town at relatively slow speeds turning a corner.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Can you share more about what you mean regarding the tundra shock angles? Does it lean the AHC shock over more?

I also wonder how well the steering and traction control programming works with the long arms.

Yeah I think the mount is about 1” further out towards the wheel. I feel like it impacted control somewhat. I honestly feel like a slightly stiffer spring up front might help. Though, as always, I’m looking to get zero static lift…

 

[linuxgod]

Im a bit jealous of you LX guys. I so want to go 37s. I’d even spend time trying to find a solution for the LC KDSS. It’s the fender trimming that I can’t bring myself to consider yet.

 

[TeCKis300]

Im a bit jealous of you LX guys. I so want to go 37s. I’d even spend time trying to find a solution for the LC KDSS. It’s the fender trimming that I can’t bring myself to consider yet.

I think this thread started with some notable LCs on 37s.

Fender trimming is where my mental block is. I think a body lift with some careful offset choices and tweaks could maybe see this work without more drastic fender mods.