Rock sliders (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Matty c
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Hornd
SILVER Star
Me.
100 x 50 x 6mm 316 rhs, and 40mm sch 40 316 pipe as side bars.
Probably overkill, but I have a non-ferrous shop, so stainless it is. I've painted them with black hammerite to make them look like not worth stealing - so far it has worked.
Two trolley jacks are handy for lifting the sliders up to the frame connection members, or a fork hoist is good also.
100 x 50 x 6mm 316 rhs, and 40mm sch 40 316 pipe as side bars.
Probably overkill, but I have a non-ferrous shop, so stainless it is. I've painted them with black hammerite to make them look like not worth stealing - so far it has worked.
Two trolley jacks are handy for lifting the sliders up to the frame connection members, or a fork hoist is good also.
They’re 2” .120 wall . They’re a bit wide but it keeps the body out of the rocks
- Thread starter
- #6
How is everyone attaching them to the frame?
I've considered welding brackets on but do not want the frame to warp or possibly crack, I've also considered rivnuts but don't really want to drill the frame, and finally making brackets that slide up the frame and bolt above the frame!
I've considered welding brackets on but do not want the frame to warp or possibly crack, I've also considered rivnuts but don't really want to drill the frame, and finally making brackets that slide up the frame and bolt above the frame!
I used the weld-it-yourself 67" Trail Gear sliders referenced in post #2. Simple and easy design, you pick the mounting angle and width as you see fit. Plenty strong for real world use without the excessive overbuilt-ness (read: excessive weight) of many other sliders out there. Welded directly to frame with fish plates and gussets. Took a colossal impact in my 3rd gen 4runner (which was subsequently totaled by rollover), cut them off and still have them in the garage. Haven't gotten around to fitting them up to the 80 yet, but 67" is the perfect size.
@Matty c
I built a set. I attached mine with a u - bolt around the frame, 3 attachment points on each side. You can also use the existing threaded holes in the frame instead of U bolts for the slider mount that will go under the catalytic converter.
Honestly though sliders are one of those projects where you will not save very much $$$ building them your own if you do it right.
I had to spend a little over $100.00 just to get a local trailer shop to bend me some custom u - bolts.
Personally I wouldn't build sliders from scratch again, if I was worried about saving $$$$ than I would be patient and find a used set.
I built a set. I attached mine with a u - bolt around the frame, 3 attachment points on each side. You can also use the existing threaded holes in the frame instead of U bolts for the slider mount that will go under the catalytic converter.
Honestly though sliders are one of those projects where you will not save very much $$$ building them your own if you do it right.
I had to spend a little over $100.00 just to get a local trailer shop to bend me some custom u - bolts.
Personally I wouldn't build sliders from scratch again, if I was worried about saving $$$$ than I would be patient and find a used set.
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I've built a set with a friend for his truck before anything was available for FJ80. I'd never do it again unless you really like the fab work and have the time. So many good options out there that just bolt on in a couple hours. (I'm assuming you're asking about FZJ80).
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
I have used the 67" TrailGear sliders on both of my 80s. Both sets were welded to the frame using the frame plates that came with the sliders. Lots of abuse and never any bending or cracks in the frame. They've gotta be the best bang for the buck slider options if you can do some welding. You'll need to make your own front leg for the sliders since the ones in the kit are too short for the front-most leg.
IMG_3103 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
IMG_3276 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
IMG_3103 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
IMG_3276 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
I did. They attach using metal techs bolt on frame brackets. I added small receiver tubes so I can slide in removable steps for the kid to climb in and out. The steps currently have rainbow tape on them per kid’s request.
I wouldn’t do it again either. Building them myself sounded good financially at first but I made too many changes (expensive) along the way and took way too long.
I wouldn’t do it again either. Building them myself sounded good financially at first but I made too many changes (expensive) along the way and took way too long.
Last edited:
I used the tapped holes, but fabbed up hangers as well.
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Made mine 20+ years ago and a few for locals, many moons ago when 80's were new and nothing was 'off the shelf'.
I recycled the aluminium 'step' parts from original ARB steps. Has worked well to aid getting in/out of the vehicle, especially when kids were kids. The step parts can be removed if necessary.
cheers,
george.
I recycled the aluminium 'step' parts from original ARB steps. Has worked well to aid getting in/out of the vehicle, especially when kids were kids. The step parts can be removed if necessary.
cheers,
george.
Weld them on with a fish plate. Don’t overthink it
From my experience you're better off paying the extra for ones specifically made for an 80
Sliders are kind of a consumable. No matter what you buy you’ll bend them eventually. Outside of convenience, I don’t see the point of buying ones that bolt on.
I built a dozen or so sets about 10 years ago for our local club. I agree with everything everyone said so far - they are hard to build and not really worth the effort over buying. I thought they would get easier once I built a few sets but they actually seemed to get harder. If you want to bolt them on making a u bracket to go around the frame is probable the simplest route.
I made brackets by bending one piece of 1/4 x 2" flat stock into an L and then welding another straight piece on the bottom of the L using a block of wood the same width as the frame for a spacer. For the front passenger side you can bolt a plate to the captured nuts in the frame.
I made brackets by bending one piece of 1/4 x 2" flat stock into an L and then welding another straight piece on the bottom of the L using a block of wood the same width as the frame for a spacer. For the front passenger side you can bolt a plate to the captured nuts in the frame.
Have you found any significant downsides to having them that wide?
They look crazy with stock wheels
. Other than that I’m happy with them. The width saved the car on the last moab trip. I they’re full of dents and I did bend them though on cliffhanger. I hit them HARD but I attribute that to having an 18” frame height, not really the width.
Best bang for buck and quality would be XO fab.
Weld them together and call it a day.
Weld them together and call it a day.
