TheLCProject
SILVER Star
Aren't you all assuming he's doing more than just going to the mall?
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (56 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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- 200 series
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Chihuahua is one of my all time fav trails...if you find the cabin about 3/4 way up, check the stream for ice cold Coors Lights
That's a 200 on the video.
What I am saying, is on the LX 570, there is no metal to metal from the body and the bumper, like on my 100 and in the video.
It is metal to plastic.
All of the part circled in yellow is plastic, between the bumper and that is rubber. The plastic can slide over the metal of the bumper, if need be.
I think what we are trying to say is it's unlikely the plastic part is going to slide over the metal part. In reality, the metal part is going to hit the plastic part and then the plastic part is going to pop out of the friction clips that hold the plastic part to the fender and core support. That's best case scenario, and in reality nothing really harmed in this case, just pop the bumper back in, but do you really want to be doing that all the time on the trail?
Worst case, the headlights also have clips under the plastic part so move at the mercy of the plastic part. I personally have seen the headlight tabs get broken when something hits the plastic bumper. In that case it was a Lexus GS and not an LX, but the design is pretty similar. I think there have been stories on MUD as well where people did not allow enough clearance and the tabs on their headlights ended up broken.
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
Got the damaged tint removed and replaced.
sreyes1103
SILVER Star
Added some bricks!
My cut line is looser than yours:
And after two years of wobbles the clips under the headlights are holding on for their lives
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
I get what you're saying but I don't think it's true that the factory bumper cover is attached to the frame. It's attached to the body. The opposite is true for the big aftermarket bumper. It's directly attached to the frame.
And so if that's true, you need to account for the movement of the body relative to the aftermarket, frame-mounted bumper in your interface between the remnant of the factory cover and the aftermarket bumper.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I don't even have an aftermarket bumper and I have that same issue. Forward upper corners of the rear bumper cover too. Been too lazy to pull them off and fix it properly.
Diff Kraken
SILVER Star
I posted this as a wanted ad in MUD classifieds as well, but didn’t get any hits.
Does anyone have a gray center headrest for the third row that I can purchase for my 2008 LC?
It would be very much appreciated.
Update: En route from a kind MUD member. Thank you x1,000 @kevinfoutch . It will be used often and was the only OEM part missing from my truck.
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LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
Sunday: Got the Cruiser (and 4runner) washed/waxed/detailed for Fathers day present to myself.
Tuesday: Came home from work to find we got the first rain in about 4 months here in Vegas. Wash/wax job lasted less than 48 hours. Coincidentally it was the first rain since the last time I washed/waxed the cars in February when the wash lasted less than 24 hours. I think I need to make the water authority a deal to wash my cars every day and Lake Mead will be back to full in no time. Got a cortisone shot in my shoulder after work as well.
Thursday: regained most of my mobility back in my right shoulder.
Today: Changed front and rear diff and transfer case oil for the first time at 45k. Took me 4 hours to do all 3. (Mind you i've never even changed my own motor oil on a single car I've ever owned before so this was a first first for me). Rear diff oil was fairly dark and plenty of fine powder / shavings on the drain magnet. Front diff and xfer case oil looked pretty good to me. Made a giant mess out of the front. Drain plug game out with zero issues, except for me dropping it right as oil was starting to come out and oil burst out untontrolled and overshot the pan making a huge mess on garage floor. Changed 10mm hex head drain plug for the Lexus p/n because it was $8 so why not. Forgot to buy plastic tubing at Harbor Freight while picking up the oil drain pan. Had to rig up a contraption with a piece of PVC pipe and a two rubber funnel nozzles I had laying around the house to refill the front. (The Ravenol filler nozzle bottles worked just great by themselves for the rear and xfer case filling). Was able to route my filling contraption out the front wheel well up over the tire to refill the front dif. Spilled some oil over the tire and dripped down over some of the suspension components and CV boot. Cleaned most of it up, but I presume whatever is left won't be an issue. Any thoughts?
Also, FSM says rear diff should hold like 4.15 To 4.25L of oil. I started to overflow the fill port before finishing the 4th liter going back in. It's about 100 degrees in my garage while doing it so I suppose thermal expansion of the oil could be part of it as I certainly waited for it to completely stop dripping before reinstalling the drain plug. I was on 4 jack stands with the truck level as I could get it so I don't think it was an out of level condition while filling that caused it to overflow seemingly early. I also checked the oil level when I came back to the ground too and was dead right on.
Tomorrow: may need to go get another cortisone shot in shoulder after being under truck for 4 hours.
Tuesday: Came home from work to find we got the first rain in about 4 months here in Vegas. Wash/wax job lasted less than 48 hours. Coincidentally it was the first rain since the last time I washed/waxed the cars in February when the wash lasted less than 24 hours. I think I need to make the water authority a deal to wash my cars every day and Lake Mead will be back to full in no time. Got a cortisone shot in my shoulder after work as well.
Thursday: regained most of my mobility back in my right shoulder.
Today: Changed front and rear diff and transfer case oil for the first time at 45k. Took me 4 hours to do all 3. (Mind you i've never even changed my own motor oil on a single car I've ever owned before so this was a first first for me). Rear diff oil was fairly dark and plenty of fine powder / shavings on the drain magnet. Front diff and xfer case oil looked pretty good to me. Made a giant mess out of the front. Drain plug game out with zero issues, except for me dropping it right as oil was starting to come out and oil burst out untontrolled and overshot the pan making a huge mess on garage floor. Changed 10mm hex head drain plug for the Lexus p/n because it was $8 so why not. Forgot to buy plastic tubing at Harbor Freight while picking up the oil drain pan. Had to rig up a contraption with a piece of PVC pipe and a two rubber funnel nozzles I had laying around the house to refill the front. (The Ravenol filler nozzle bottles worked just great by themselves for the rear and xfer case filling). Was able to route my filling contraption out the front wheel well up over the tire to refill the front dif. Spilled some oil over the tire and dripped down over some of the suspension components and CV boot. Cleaned most of it up, but I presume whatever is left won't be an issue. Any thoughts?
Also, FSM says rear diff should hold like 4.15 To 4.25L of oil. I started to overflow the fill port before finishing the 4th liter going back in. It's about 100 degrees in my garage while doing it so I suppose thermal expansion of the oil could be part of it as I certainly waited for it to completely stop dripping before reinstalling the drain plug. I was on 4 jack stands with the truck level as I could get it so I don't think it was an out of level condition while filling that caused it to overflow seemingly early. I also checked the oil level when I came back to the ground too and was dead right on.
Tomorrow: may need to go get another cortisone shot in shoulder after being under truck for 4 hours.
New rear springs installed yesterday. Went with the medium 220-880# load Ironman coils, which gave me back 1.25” of rake I lost when I added the rear bumper recently
Replacing the latitudes with 60k on them.
prharper
GOLD Star
Finally got around to fixing the Bud Built skid plate.
Used a floor jack on the skid and was able to get a Dremel cutoff disc under the bolt head and cut it off. Removed skid and was able to unscrew the bent bolt with my hand. Glad I used antiseeze on the bolts.
Pressure washed the skids. All kinds of crud on the backside. Notice the rock scars.
Hard to see, but the main weld for the oil drain door was separated.
Considering I have a Fumoto quick drain valve on the oil pan, really glad I wasn't running factory skids.
Will probably replace this skid section later as it's bent in a few places. Thinking stainless steel.
prharper
GOLD Star
Replaced rear brake pads with new OEM pads for the first time at 39k.
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turbo8
Supporting Vendor
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