trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Thanks, let me know, the test tone doesn't bug me as much as the crooked transfer case knob. Let me know how easy/hard it is to do this.
Motor mounts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SWUtah
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Thanks, let me know, the test tone doesn't bug me as much as the crooked transfer case knob. Let me know how easy/hard it is to do this.
ranma21
Supporting Vendor
Not too expensive if you remember a new cruiser runs for $60k back then and not a cheap vehicle. You are driving one of the most reliable vehicle made, so she deserve a little love Try the motor mounts of a Bimmer or Benz then you know cruiser mounts are cheap and last much longer.
Has anyone replaced their rear engine mounts, and do you recall the part number?
I've looked up the parts and can find the part number for the 2 front, but Cannot find the rear mount part numbers.
Left/right front
12361-50121
I've looked up the parts and can find the part number for the 2 front, but Cannot find the rear mount part numbers.
Left/right front
12361-50121
any instructions on how to replace these 3 mounts? I need to get this done asap. Thank you.
Have not personally changed the motor mounts yet, only the transmission mount so far.
My suggested procedure:
1. Support the engine with a floor jack, right at the junction of the engine and transmission bell housing
2. Unbolt the engine mounts, p/n 90119-10773 in the diagram above, 2x each side
3. Jack up engine a few inches and remove the motor mounts from engine itself
4. Install new motor mounts to engine block
5. Lower engine and reinstall fasteners removed in step 2
The transmission mount is really straight forward:
1. Unbolt transmission cross-member, 8x (if I remember right) bolts, 2x nuts for the transmission mount
2. Remove mount from transmission, 4x nuts
3. Reinstall in reverse order with new mount
My suggested procedure:
1. Support the engine with a floor jack, right at the junction of the engine and transmission bell housing
2. Unbolt the engine mounts, p/n 90119-10773 in the diagram above, 2x each side
3. Jack up engine a few inches and remove the motor mounts from engine itself
4. Install new motor mounts to engine block
5. Lower engine and reinstall fasteners removed in step 2
The transmission mount is really straight forward:
1. Unbolt transmission cross-member, 8x (if I remember right) bolts, 2x nuts for the transmission mount
2. Remove mount from transmission, 4x nuts
3. Reinstall in reverse order with new mount
Thank you. On the transmission mount, does the transmission need support when the cross member is removed, I would think so. Just making sure I have everything available when ready to get this done.
Why don't you get someone (that you really, really TRUST) to sit in the driver's seat and reproduce the situation where you get the vibration, and carefully look and see what the engine is doing?
Well the new mounts DEFINITIVELY helped, I can't "feel" it anymore and the truck is noticeably more quiet over all. But I can still "hear" the rumbling every now and then. I have an eerie feeling the rough idle may be due to low voltage or a sign of the battery going out. I have a new alternator but my battery is rather old. I'm going to try that next.
Is there an easy way to tell which mount may be bad? I have a similar vibration issue to what you've all described and it's felt like a motor mount being bad. I've diagnosed it on past cars by opening the hood, one foot on the brake, other on the gas and have someone looking from the other side to see where it is moving from. Haven't tried that one this one yet.
Others may have better or different insight wrt to determining if motor mounts are bad. What I have done in the past with other vehicles is:
Pop the hood
Have someone (you trust
) start the truck, put in neutral, keep one foot firmly on brake and rev engine with other footIf the motor rises on one side or both, mounts are bad/tired.
I have always replaced both as a preventative maintenance.
Rough idle can also be a sign of a failing coil pack. It might be going, but not throw a code yet. Techstream will pick it up.
Savric- What was your process for changing the motor mounts? Remove the mounting nut on both sides, lift from oil pan, remove and replace one side at a time? I've already replaced the T-case mount but does that need to be loosened to raise the engine in order to get the mounts out?
So I learned some things on the way, I'll break it down in steps.
1. Remove all skids
2. Loosen transfer case mount bolts as much as possible, do not remove them. Yes, even if you are not replacing the transfer case mount.
3. Pick which side you want to do first, one at a time. Driver side is more difficult than passenger side because there is less room, so I recommend you do driver side first.
4. Support oil pan with 2x4's under a jack. You will need to be able to move it up and down.
5. Remove mount bolts. Don't worry the engine will not drop there is a pin holding the engine/mount on the frame even after removing the bolt.
6. Lift/tilt engine with jack under oil pan (you only need 1~2 inches
7. Lift/Slide out engine mount & replace new one.
8. Finger tighten bolt and move to passenger side and repeat
9. Tighten all bolts and transfer case bolt.
10. Done
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Just watch that you don't hit the three wire blocks on top of bell housing on fire wall. You've about 3".
Not sure what those marks are. Maybe some factory identification proof stamping and possibly the shore hardness or durometer of the rubber. From the brief search I did on motor mounts in general, that the average rubber durometer is around 40-50 on the hardness scale. The A may be shore scale A, and the 4 may represent 40 as it relates to hardness- but that is pure speculation.
Thanks, is my speculation as well. Was hopeful the symbol to left gave clue as to manufacture, but probably world standard symbol. With engine mounts we can get OEM.
But as you know we can't get the rack mounting bushing. The rubber rack mount bushing I did find have no markings. I'd really like to find OEM manufacture.
But as you know we can't get the rack mounting bushing. The rubber rack mount bushing I did find have no markings. I'd really like to find OEM manufacture.
