Motor mounts (1 Viewer)

[abuck99]

So I learned some things on the way, I'll break it down in steps.

1. Remove all skids
2. Loosen transfer case mount bolts as much as possible, do not remove them. Yes, even if you are not replacing the transfer case mount.
3. Pick which side you want to do first, one at a time. Driver side is more difficult than passenger side because there is less room, so I recommend you do driver side first.
4. Support oil pan with 2x4's under a jack. You will need to be able to move it up and down.
5. Remove mount bolts. Don't worry the engine will not drop there is a pin holding the engine/mount on the frame even after removing the bolt.
6. Lift/tilt engine with jack under oil pan (you only need 1~2 inches
7. Lift/Slide out engine mount & replace new one.
8. Finger tighten bolt and move to passenger side and repeat
9. Tighten all bolts and transfer case bolt.
10. Done

Got into this project today. Pretty straight forward job but I had a learning moment and made one process error today- not following your directions closely enough.

I actually loosened up both mounts and then lifted engine as opposed to your suggestion to do one side at a time. The driver side came out first, then had to raise the motor a little higher to slide the passenger side mount out, and in doing that the fan blade came in contact with the radiator shroud and cracked it. I was keeping an eye on hoses and wires from underneath but didnt predict the fan would contact the shroud. Not a proud wrenching moment to say the least.

The old mounts were cracked along the bonding surface but still functional- maybe not optimally.

Probably something to inspect at 90k intervals. Im at 186k on these.

 

[Rolocado]

Got into this project today. Pretty straight forward job but I had a learning moment and made one process error today- not following your directions closely enough.

I actually loosened up both mounts and then lifted engine as opposed to your suggestion to do one side at a time. The driver side came out first, then had to raise the motor a little higher to slide the passenger side mount out, and in doing that the fan blade came in contact with the radiator shroud and cracked it. I was keeping an eye on hoses and wires from underneath but didnt predict the fan would contact the shroud. Not a proud wrenching moment to say the least.

The old mounts were cracked along the bonding surface but still functional- maybe not optimally.

Probably something to inspect at 90k intervals. Im at 186k on these.

View attachment 1688553
View attachment 1688554

Feel any difference driving?

 

[abuck99]

Feel any difference driving?

Too soon to say, I did a quick test drive out on the hwy for about 5-6miles. I wouldn’t say I noticed a remarkable difference during that short drive. I need to put on some more miles to know for sure.

Based on the visual condition of the mounts, they looked ready for replacement.

UPDATE 5/4/17: Driven about 300 miles since install and I have noticed the overall engine "feel" is more solid, less vibes. It adds to all of the other suspension and bushing replacement/upgrades I have done in the past 18 months. Truck drives great and no driveline noises. Feels pretty close to a new vehicle. Only things left are steering rack & lower control arm bushes. I suppose I will go after the steering rack bushings next- but that is a massively unfun job.

 

[SmoothLC]

What are the part numbers for the three engine mounts?

I assume this is the tranny mount: part # 12371-50081

 

[2001LC]

2 needed Front Mount - Toyota (12361-50121) | Toyota Parts

I think same PN # in all years of the 2UZ, but check with your VIN as may be difference.
PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

 

[ScubaJon]

Just make sure to check amazon where its 20-40 bucks over 109

2 needed Front Mount - Toyota (12361-50121) | Toyota Parts

I think same PN # in all years of the 2UZ, but check with your VIN as may be difference.
PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

 

[Rolocado]

Engine & Trans Mounting for 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser | Toyota Of Colorado Springs
Way cheaper. Let us know if you notice any difference

 

[RootMeanSqr]

Engine & Trans Mounting for 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser | Toyota Of Colorado Springs
Way cheaper. Let us know if you notice any difference

The McGeorge link provided by @2001LC is actually cheaper, perhaps you were looking at the price of the brackets?

 

[Rolocado]

The McGeorge link provided by @2001LC is actually cheaper, perhaps you were looking at the price of the brackets?

#3 on diagram. McGeorge might be cheaper but I don’t have to pay shipping in CO. Try your local dealers parts website

 

[Rolocado]

2000 LX with 223k. Starting to separate and hard as a rock, definitely time to get new ones

 

[2001LC]

Look fairly good right!

Tried putting some torque/twist on them to simulate lift.

Not gone totally, but starting to separating.

Anyone have a set that has separated?

 

[ranma21]

This is a normal wear and tear item, rubber will deteriorate over time. Always a good idea to replace them after 150k mark.

 

[abuck99]

My mounts looked like this at 186k miles.

Hint of advice on swapping them out and back in. Disconnect and replace one side at a time. I made the mistake of disconnecting both sides first, then raising the motor which required lifting the motor higher than necessary to remove the mount. This caused the fan blades to run up into the radiator fan shroud. Thankfully no significant damage but could have been easily avoided if I paid closer attention to directions.

 

[Rolocado]

New mounts completely eliminated the painful drone I had when stopped in D

 

[SmoothLC]

193K+ and replaced mine last week.

Didn't look too bad - not separated at all.

 

[TXLX007]

Did you re-adjust your spare tire?

 

[TXLX007]

Well the new mounts DEFINITIVELY helped, I can't "feel" it anymore and the truck is noticeably more quiet over all. But I can still "hear" the rumbling every now and then. I have an eerie feeling the rough idle may be due to low voltage or a sign of the battery going out. I have a new alternator but my battery is rather old. I'm going to try that next.

any holes in the exhaust?

 

[scwill]

I have talked to some of you guys on this but i wanted to share what im experiencing on this thread and hopefully get to the bottom. I have a cabin drone at stop while in drive, it happens at 600 rpms, above this it dissapears. What i have done is the following already: spark plugs, cleaned MAF, Cleaned Throttle Body, air filter, fuel filter, oil change, disconnected batt for 30 min, removed engine cover.
I dont have the weight thing on my frame.
My next attempt will be engine mounts and trans mount unless yall think that isnt the right path to take.
Are yall getting to the motor mounts from the bottom of the truck? Is it as easy as un bolting the 2 bolts and raising the engine and replacing? When i look up the motor mounts online it calls for 3 pieces, front mount (12361-50121), front mount bracket (12311-50090), Stabilizer (12381-50100). Im assuming i only need to buy 2 (12361-50121) as the other pieces wont need replacement. Plus buy (12371-50180) the one piece trans mount.
Thanks,Casey

 

[Rolocado]

Loosen the trans mount too. And make sure not to hit the wiring harness on the firewall. You have to lift it quite a ways.

 

[AlabamaLX]

Just fixed the vibration in mine.

I found the TSB on Exhaust Boom at Idle posted by another member (Attached).

After going through everything listed, mine was motor & transmission mounts. Installed (2) 12361-50210, and (1) 12371-50180. It runs smoother than it has in years. Silky smooth at idle, and at 75 MPH.

Used SLEE SliderSteps, instead of the (2) OEM cross member dampers listed in the TSB.