Builds Chicago builds a 40 (2 Viewers)

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fyresq

Thanks for the pics and info. I'd forgotten about your build so I clicked on your link and enjoyed refreshing my memory about your build.

chicago

I'm enjoying your build. Keep the info and pics coming. Inspiration for what I hope to eventually be able to do.

Don
 
Also, I checked at the local wrecking yard for a harness...all they had was 5.7 and 6.0 harnesses...
Anyone know if either one of those will work with the 5.3?
Summit also has a harness for 600.00. Not TOO BAD if it will save me some time. Its a painless harness. Still unsure as to WHAT to do with that.

UOTE]

Nope, completely different motors/harness. You will need either a stock 4.8/5.3/6.0 harness or custom harness.

Jack
 
Also, I checked at the local wrecking yard for a harness...all they had was 5.7 and 6.0 harnesses...
Anyone know if either one of those will work with the 5.3?
Summit also has a harness for 600.00. Not TOO BAD if it will save me some time. Its a painless harness. Still unsure as to WHAT to do with that.

UOTE]

Nope, completely different motors/harness. You will need either a stock 4.8/5.3/6.0 harness or custom harness.

Jack

That's what I thought...

Thanks Jack!
 
More body work!
Donno an easy way to fill in the holes.
If anyone has an idea. I could just weld em in, but it will be a BEOTCH!
Thought about just doing a backing plate and plug welding em in then grinding off the excess...
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get a chunk of brass (or aluminium can work too) and hold it on the back side of the holes and then fill them with weld. Don't know how much fun it will be vertically. I haven't done alot of it but have done some. I have a big old chunk of thrust bearing out of a ships diesel engine that i use.
 
AAAAAAH...right!
Because the metals wont fuse! nice idea gents!
May have to try it on one to see how it works.

Thanks!
 
I'll bring you a piece of copper clad fiberglass. We buy it by the pound at work to make prototype printed circuit boards. I have some stuff that is on a type of fiberglass we don't use any more.
 
I'll bring you a piece of copper clad fiberglass. We buy it by the pound at work to make prototype printed circuit boards. I have some stuff that is on a type of fiberglass we don't use any more.

Right on!
Thanks rusty!
Will the fiberglass make a mess when subjected to that kind of heat?
 
I tried the flattened copper pipe trick to no avail. The copper melted and made a mess, more trouble than it was worth. My Readywelder may just have had too much heat input and you may have better luck. I would try to get the thickest piece of copper you can get your hands on.
 
I use the flat copper for sheetmetal work and don't ever get it hot enough to melt the copper, the added benefit is you can shape it for corners, etc.

If you are welding hot enough to melt copper on sheetmetal work you have to expect that you are warping the metal
 
ready welded = hammer method of welding. They are not sheetmetal tools ;)
 
Yeah, you're right, probably should have kept my mouth shut. ready welder = only welder I can afford so I work with what I have.
 
Right on!
Thanks rusty!
Will the fiberglass make a mess when subjected to that kind of heat?
Thanks to paranoia about lead (<rant>the electronics industry uses less than 0.1% of the lead consumed world wide each year, auto and appliances use pretty much all the rest, yet we have to remove all lead from our products while the auto and appliance industry are exempt. This resulted in a major re-tooling of all of our processes which in turn led to higher production cost for consumer electronics. Thank you paranoia.:rolleyes: </rant.>) we now use fiberglass with a "glass" temperature around 185 C or 345 F I typically run PCB's through the oven at those temps for 4 minutes. I doubt you will get them hot enough for it to be a problem, it will smell funky but it won't make a mess.
 
I use the flat copper for sheetmetal work and don't ever get it hot enough to melt the copper, the added benefit is you can shape it for corners, etc.

If you are welding hot enough to melt copper on sheetmetal work you have to expect that you are warping the metal

Ever do it on a vertical surface?
Everything at this point is spot welds anyway, so it SHOULD be pretty easy to control the gravity effects, but Im just curious.
 
Yeah, you're right, probably should have kept my mouth shut. ready welder = only welder I can afford so I work with what I have.

I hear ya there brotha!
When I did my SOA on my 62, I did it with a 110v lincoln AGAINST everyone's advice...Worked out pretty good, but not quite the "right" tool for the job.

Do what you gotta do.
 
Thanks to paranoia about lead (<rant>the electronics industry uses less than 0.1% of the lead consumed world wide each year, auto and appliances use pretty much all the rest, yet we have to remove all lead from our products while the auto and appliance industry are exempt. This resulted in a major re-tooling of all of our processes which in turn led to higher production cost for consumer electronics. Thank you paranoia.:rolleyes: </rant.>) we now use fiberglass with a "glass" temperature around 185 C or 345 F I typically run PCB's through the oven at those temps for 4 minutes. I doubt you will get them hot enough for it to be a problem, it will smell funky but it won't make a mess.

SWEET!
Im in!
Ill give it a go with that stuff.
However, I may get antsy and pick up that copper pipe cap contraption I have in mind.
Are you off for turkey day?
 
SWEET!
Im in!
Ill give it a go with that stuff.
However, I may get antsy and pick up that copper pipe cap contraption I have in mind.
Are you off for turkey day?
I'm off all week. I was in the use it or lose it position with my vacation time. Some times you just gotta do what you gotta do.:grinpimp:

BTW I also have some 6" x 6" X 1/4" pieces of aluminum They might also work as a backing.
 

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