i guess it all depends on what you want to have for you level of personel peace of mind.
Builds Chicago builds a 40
- Thread starter chicago
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No, I do not carry a spare around with me.
Swampers are a pretty damn tough tire. And, most of the time I am not too far from the trailer.
Also, if you slice the sidewall bad enough that a plug (or a fistfull of plugs) are not acceptable, then you sew it back together and stuff a tube in there.
Swampers are a pretty damn tough tire. And, most of the time I am not too far from the trailer.
Also, if you slice the sidewall bad enough that a plug (or a fistfull of plugs) are not acceptable, then you sew it back together and stuff a tube in there.
rock on, and it looks like for sure this rig will be not to far from a trailer. i too have pluged the side way with great luck, and your way takes up way less room for sure :*)
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi All:
Interco Super Swamper *bias-ply* tires are a pretty damn tough tire! Not sure I'd say the about the radial 'Swampers!!
Seriously, I carry a spare but a buddy that is running the 37 inch IROK radials has not carried a spare over the last 2 or 3 years without any failures.
So . . . . . YMMV!
Regards,
Alan
Interco Super Swamper *bias-ply* tires are a pretty damn tough tire! Not sure I'd say the about the radial 'Swampers!!
Seriously, I carry a spare but a buddy that is running the 37 inch IROK radials has not carried a spare over the last 2 or 3 years without any failures.
So . . . . . YMMV!
Regards,
Alan
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Not exactly. They seal the bead from the inside. If you sliced a side wall they wouldn't help much since they don't extend much past the bead.
I'm still trying to cut a side wall on my TSL's.
And I'm still carrying around that bald spare.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I'm pretty sure he'll get far enough from the trailer for it to be a problem. Most of the trails around here aren't "in and out". The start and end are usually many miles apart.
I've always hear of using bailing wire but Mono filament sounds like it would work better. I've also heard of duct taping the slice from the inside.
- Thread starter
- #308
Besides...the only trailer that I have access to is Locrawlin...He's NOT always available to come pick my junk up...
I think I stick with a spare to be safe even though its a PITA.
Ive thus far NEVER needed to use my spare, but there will come a day...
Oh wait...we did use it to support the ass end of my rig at the Loon lake dam when I busted the rear axle.
I think I stick with a spare to be safe even though its a PITA.
Ive thus far NEVER needed to use my spare, but there will come a day...
Oh wait...we did use it to support the ass end of my rig at the Loon lake dam when I busted the rear axle.
I think my wheelbase is around 101 with front axle 4-6" foward and rear axle 6" back using 55 rear springs and the ruffstuff perches. My driveshaft length with a 700r4 and d300 is around 21" with my v8 pushed as far foward as I can. (about 2" off the radiator) I may push my axle back a little further yet........tires are 40's, old pic thought it might help give an idea of what 6" looks like vs. 12". I'm all for extending the tub if the doubler is what you are looking to do. Trupster on reno and TRG extended his 40, have you talked to him yet on pros and cons?
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Trupster's rig is fawkin sick. Does he have a build thread? He posted a couple of pictures on Pirate and it is by far one of my favorite 40's out there. I think the body is stretched 18", looks like a 43 or 44 series.
- Thread starter
- #311
I think my wheelbase is around 101 with front axle 4-6" foward and rear axle 6" back using 55 rear springs and the ruffstuff perches. My driveshaft length with a 700r4 and d300 is around 21" with my v8 pushed as far foward as I can. (about 2" off the radiator) I may push my axle back a little further yet........tires are 40's, old pic thought it might help give an idea of what 6" looks like vs. 12". I'm all for extending the tub if the doubler is what you are looking to do. Trupster on reno and TRG extended his 40, have you talked to him yet on pros and cons?
That looks pretty bad ass my man!
Im gonna try and avoid chopping the tub and frame if I can. I really just dont wanna **** with it if I dont have to. So if youre using 55 springs, the theoretically, the 60 series springs flipped should yield an extra 2-3 in back...
Im gonna give it a go with what I have on hand. If I need to run the shackle hanger off the rear, then Ill do it. I really dont see too much of a problem with doing that. Some disagree, but...That is what makes these rigs BETTER then the heeps. Each one is unique and different not to mention custom built when you get into this "level".
Can you get that out of your garage?!
Thanks for posting up!
Ummmm...no I can't get it out of the garage with air in the tires
I'm prepping to tell the wife that the 1200sqft garage just isn't big enough anymore and I need a shop 
Believe it or not, the stance is the same as stock shackles with springover. I don't think I can actually lower it anymore without linking it.I tried to keep the stock look too and as you can see went to the trouble of replacing the rear corners, sill, etc. but after I decided to go to tons and the 40's there's no way around cutting it. I am going to try to keep the classic cruiser rounded corners and am really trying to avoid comp cutting it after going to all the trouble to replace the corners. The wheel well cutout, by the way, is just a temp hack job to get the 40's on. It won't have such a crappy angular look to it. I'm trying to get 1/4" steel radiused to throw on top like the gen right and PSC corners for heeps.
We did the shackle off of the rear crossmember on my buddies Jeep. We never had a problem on the Rubicon, Fordyce or Moab. Has been done many times.
He could get it out of the garage without the soft top, if he lowered the tire pressure.
Jack
chicago
I hope you will forgive me for taking a rabbit trail here, but fyresq's pics and explanation has brought up something I need more info on.
fyresq
What is your measurement from the ground to the bottom of the frame? You have 40" tires (I don't have larger tires yet and will have to take that into consideration). I just finished putting 55 rears on front and back (stock spring hanger locations and 5 3/4" shackles) which gave me about 2" of lift from the stock sagging 40 springs. I want a bit more lift without going to a spring lift, but the extra 6-7" of SOA is more than I want (I plan for the 40 to eventually be my DDer). I jacked up my 40 and put 2x4 blocks between the spring and frame to simulate a SOA lift and didn't like what I saw. I've been pondering about how to do SOA and do it with less than the expected 6-7" of lift beyond what I got from the 55 spring swap. What you did goes right along with what I've been formulating. I plan to use 60 series axles front and rear so I'll be outboarding my front springs which will give me the opportunity to mount the springs higher on the frame. Your pics of how you did your rear springs really helps me visualize everything.
Could you take some pics of your front spring /tie rod/pitman arm setup? It would help me better visualize the frame to tie rod to spring clearances of SOA.
OK chicago, the rabbit is back on the right trail now.
Don
I hope you will forgive me for taking a rabbit trail here, but fyresq's pics and explanation has brought up something I need more info on.
fyresq
What is your measurement from the ground to the bottom of the frame? You have 40" tires (I don't have larger tires yet and will have to take that into consideration). I just finished putting 55 rears on front and back (stock spring hanger locations and 5 3/4" shackles) which gave me about 2" of lift from the stock sagging 40 springs. I want a bit more lift without going to a spring lift, but the extra 6-7" of SOA is more than I want (I plan for the 40 to eventually be my DDer). I jacked up my 40 and put 2x4 blocks between the spring and frame to simulate a SOA lift and didn't like what I saw. I've been pondering about how to do SOA and do it with less than the expected 6-7" of lift beyond what I got from the 55 spring swap. What you did goes right along with what I've been formulating. I plan to use 60 series axles front and rear so I'll be outboarding my front springs which will give me the opportunity to mount the springs higher on the frame. Your pics of how you did your rear springs really helps me visualize everything.
Could you take some pics of your front spring /tie rod/pitman arm setup? It would help me better visualize the frame to tie rod to spring clearances of SOA.
OK chicago, the rabbit is back on the right trail now.
Don
I've always thought of using a johnny joint shackle hanger. Any one out there done this on their rigs? I think it could be cool, not sure if it'd just be a can of worms though. It always seemed cooler than those "revolver shackles" I used to see all the time. I have seen 55 springs lots, don't really recall 60 springs on a 40 though. I'm sure they'll work and be a hell of a lot easier to find, spares, replacements and such.
- Thread starter
- #316
Right...
Seems a lot of the mini truck guyz do this as well.
I might just have to find a way to run a tire carrier with swing out IF it comes to that.
Small price in comparison to a link set up, and the atlas in all actuality. I was planning on going the 2 speed route, but I just didnt like the idea of NO intermediate gear. Seems that Id really miss that on the lighter trails as we discussed.
- Thread starter
- #317
For today, I got the PS rear quarter replaced, the fender well OUT, and the frame for the new fender well set up...sort of.
Also stripped ALL the paint off the PS rear of the tub. Got tires of tack welding, and opted to do something different.
Heading out to pick up a t case from a somewhat local cruiser grave yard. People here check with him FIRST for cruiser parts.
Coming along, slow, but still progress forward.
Also, I checked at the local wrecking yard for a harness...all they had was 5.7 and 6.0 harnesses...
Anyone know if either one of those will work with the 5.3?
Summit also has a harness for 600.00. Not TOO BAD if it will save me some time. Its a painless harness. Still unsure as to WHAT to do with that.
Ill post pics tomorrow of the body work progress.
Also stripped ALL the paint off the PS rear of the tub. Got tires of tack welding, and opted to do something different.
Heading out to pick up a t case from a somewhat local cruiser grave yard. People here check with him FIRST for cruiser parts.
Coming along, slow, but still progress forward.
Also, I checked at the local wrecking yard for a harness...all they had was 5.7 and 6.0 harnesses...
Anyone know if either one of those will work with the 5.3?
Summit also has a harness for 600.00. Not TOO BAD if it will save me some time. Its a painless harness. Still unsure as to WHAT to do with that.
Ill post pics tomorrow of the body work progress.
I'll try to answer the questions in order but my answers may not help
My frame to ground with aired up 40" tires is 24". The sideview pic makes it look taller cause I cut 2" off the rocker.
I run a dana 60 in the front now so pics of the setup may not help but here is an old pic with it SOA on 36's, 4x4 labs histeer
I cut my D60 down to 64.5" to match my stock spring hangers and later ran the shackle hanger into the frame to "lower" it from this
to this
using 6" shackles with the longer 55 springs in the rear keeps it about the same height as using 40 springs with stock shackles.
I don't think my spring over yeilded much more than 5" lift
Sorry Chicago for the double thread jack
- Thread starter
- #319
I'll try to answer the questions in order but my answers may not help
My frame to ground with aired up 40" tires is 24". The sideview pic makes it look taller cause I cut 2" off the rocker.
I run a dana 60 in the front now so pics of the setup may not help but here is an old pic with it SOA on 36's, 4x4 labs histeer
I cut my D60 down to 64.5" to match my stock spring hangers and later ran the shackle hanger into the frame to "lower" it from this
to this
using 6" shackles with the longer 55 springs in the rear keeps it about the same height as using 40 springs with stock shackles.
I don't think my spring over yeilded much more than 5" lift
Sorry Chicago for the double thread jack
Quite alright.
Good info for me as well.
Really though, how much of a difference does running the shackle hanger through the frame make?
Some of em I see end up hitting the frame when the tire is stuffed. Not that anything will happen to it, but...just seems awkward some how.
Hard to see in the pics, but close to 2" of a difference and also turned my pinion angle up a couple degrees which was nice since doing a C&T on a d60 is a PITA. Still had to add 6 or 8 degree shims (can't remember which) to get the pinion angle above 10. That shackle angle a little less than it is now with the weight of the drivetrain on it. I think leaf springs are just a temporary measure unless they end up flexing real well. A rear 4 link will be in order for sure.
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