Builds Chicago builds a 40 (5 Viewers)

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Just out of curiosity (on this topic)...
The rear spring hangers...Those can be moved further back as well, correct?
Before I commit to the Atlas, I still might give this a whirl just to see if I MIGHT be able to make this work with a safe DS length. Ive got one set of 60 series springs, and a friend (Rusty:rolleyes:) has another set that he MIGHT be willing to part with for the front. With the tub off and such, it should be easier to move things around under the rig just to get a rough idea either way.

Thanks!

Keith
 
Like I mentioned before, Mount the rear spring hangers on the rear "bumper" hanging vertically.

Front, you can do whatever you want. It won't help the length issue.

You can get at least 11" of movement back in the rear. That's ~ 101 without touching the front.

(try measuring the WB again. 88 sounds short to me. Stock is more like 90" IIRC)
 
Ewheeler found this over on Pirate!
I think he's using 55 springs, but not sure. Seems that his WB is about 107 in....
WBstretch.webp
WBstretch2.webp
 
Exactly,

If you use your 60 springs, it'll move the axle back further than that pic.
 
Ewheeler found this over on Pirate!
I think he's using 55 springs, but not sure. Seems that his WB is about 107 in....

I've seen a few set up like that where the rear shackle hanger is just cut off and placed vertically on the rear cross member with the eye down. It looks a little ghetto fab but also looks like it would work fine.

I used the RuffStuff "way back" hanger and the eye gets close to the back of the crossmember. You would gain another couple of inches if you moved it to the vertical position on the back of the crossmember.

attachment.php


The best way to move the axle way back is a linked set up, but then it gets complicated and expensive.
 
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Mace is correct, flip the 60 springs and re-drill the military wrap leaf and you will gain a bit more wheelbase than what is shown in that pic with the 55 springs. On 37's w/ flipped 60 rears, my departure angle (this is a swag) is around 70-75 degrees. Just got back from Moab and I had no hang ups dropping off any ledges, so don't let those shackle hangers way back there scare ya.
 
I've seen a few set up like that where the rear shackle hanger is just cut off and placed vertically on the rear cross member with the eye down. It looks a little ghetto fab but also looks like it would work fine.

I used the RuffStuff "way back" hanger and the eye gets close to the back of the crossmember. You would gain another couple of inches if you moved it to the vertical position on the back of the crossmember.

I used the way back hanger in the same manner as you did with it flush to the face of the rear cross member, but there is no reason you can't weld it on the cross member. It will look different than the majority of the rigs out there, but in no way do I think it will look ghetto. Different is cool, especially when it allows you to run the auto trans-203-splitcase set-up you have sitting in your garage without dropping a bunch of coin:D I really like the mounts that fj40forlife used in that pic, you should shoot him a PM and find out where he got those.
 
I like what I'm seeing. The pics of the moved rear spring hangers are great, gives me more info for when I can get that far on my 40. I got 55 rear springs front and back on my 40 this fall and like the stretch I've got so far. My plans call for more when I can afford to start the motor/tranny swap.

Don
 
It looks like the leaf spring set up is getting complicated.:lol:

How so? It is only getting complicated because people are making assumptions. it is dirt simple to weld the shackle hanger to the rear xmember, and then make some front spring hangers that weld to the frame itself..

the nice thing about doing it this way is that you have a low ride height..
 
How so? It is only getting complicated because people are making assumptions. it is dirt simple to weld the shackle hanger to the rear xmember, and then make some front spring hangers that weld to the frame itself..

the nice thing about doing it this way is that you have a low ride height..
Don't try to confuse the issue with facts.:lol:
 
How so? It is only getting complicated because people are making assumptions. it is dirt simple to weld the shackle hanger to the rear xmember, and then make some front spring hangers that weld to the frame itself..

the nice thing about doing it this way is that you have a low ride height..

Rusty has been trying to get me to link this rig since its inception.
Ill definitely be going this route to start with. My whole plan was to run this doubler set up.
That way I wont have to dick around with centering the rear axle either and I can stick with components that I know. Additionally, that frees up a LOT of money to buy other stuff for the build!
So reverse the military wrap, line up the holes and drill it?

The only thing that I dont particularly like about running the shackle hanger off the rear bumper/ x member is that it makes building a rear bumper with swingout more difficult, but I can certainly work around that.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, everyone!

Ewheeler! Thanks for bringing that link to my attention so I could visualize what the end product looks like.

SOOOOOPER excited about this!
Cant wait to start!
 
You really gonna carry a 40" tire as a spare?
 
Will Cruiser axles even survive with 40s?
 
You really gonna carry a 40" tire as a spare?

37 in iroks are the plan.
Wont need anything bigger, and yes I will do everything I can to get that mo fo out of the rear of the rig.:hillbilly:
 
37 in iroks are the plan.
Wont need anything bigger, and yes I will do everything I can to get that mo fo out of the rear of the rig.:hillbilly:



i been toying the idea around instead of a swing out make a drop down that doubles as a table. with my 60 it was way crazy because of the 2 differnt doors that open just to get in back, but with a 40 that all open it would pretty easy to work around and then when its time for dinner just drop it down and there you go a table to eat at.
 
Or, leave the spare on a trailer and carry a plug kit, a tube and some heavy gauge fishing string with you...
 
i been toying the idea around instead of a swing out make a drop down that doubles as a table. with my 60 it was way crazy because of the 2 differnt doors that open just to get in back, but with a 40 that all open it would pretty easy to work around and then when its time for dinner just drop it down and there you go a table to eat at.

Ive seen some other guyz do this...
Just doesnt seem all that great of an idea to me. The issue that I have with it, is when loading and un loading. That big ass honkin tire is right in the way of everything. Then accessing things in the tub, youre leaning over it all the time. Not for me.
I built a dual swing and it was actually pretty nice for my 62. one latch and they both open up. You have a tail gate for a dinner table.:hillbilly:
 
Or, leave the spare on a trailer and carry a plug kit, a tube and some heavy gauge fishing string with you...

You dont run a spare amigo?
Id love to NOT run a spare, but I fear side wall slices. That would be a disaster of sorts.

Know anything about the staun inner bead locks?
They are a run flat type of device, right?

K
 

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