new coils and plugs
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (20 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Replaced power steering pump and installed Continental K49468 belt, tensioner & idler pulley kit. I had already flushed fluid and cleaned reservoir earlier, hoping it would remedy steering whine noise to no avail.
Was there a reason you replaced the coils? Did you notice a difference after replacing them?
Starting my journey with my new-to-me 2018 LC200….
Ordered a BeatSonic CarPlay adapter
Scheduled an undercoating (Corrosion Free)
Trying to buy Brendan’s hatch light (apparently I need more posts to be able to reply to PMs…stoopid newb!)
Feel free to stop me from any huge mistakes as I don’t want to serve as a horrible warning.
Ordered a BeatSonic CarPlay adapter
Scheduled an undercoating (Corrosion Free)
Trying to buy Brendan’s hatch light (apparently I need more posts to be able to reply to PMs…stoopid newb!)
Feel free to stop me from any huge mistakes as I don’t want to serve as a horrible warning.
Had one bad one. 120k...long story, I posted some pics on another post on what i found...........I does start a bit nicer and has more power. Not sure about mpG yet, have not looked at that yet
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Difficult job?
I'm assuming you cycled the steering rack to purge the air out of there system?
It requires like 15 lock-to-lock cycles if I recall.
My H150F gearbox got today some fresh oil. Last change was like a 130k miles ago.
But it looked pretty decent. Still no big darkening, no debris or metal.
Was reading online that it normally takes 3l of gear oil but in the end I filled something like 3.1-3.2l till it started to flow from the fill plug.
(At least I guess that was the fill plug since it was on the same side and had the same head for the screw. On the other side there is also a plug that is a little bit lower but has a big torx to open………)
/edit so now as I am thinking more and more about it I get more and more worried. Headed over to the 80 series section and asked them since they got the same gearbox in their manual 80s
But it looked pretty decent. Still no big darkening, no debris or metal.
Was reading online that it normally takes 3l of gear oil but in the end I filled something like 3.1-3.2l till it started to flow from the fill plug.
(At least I guess that was the fill plug since it was on the same side and had the same head for the screw. On the other side there is also a plug that is a little bit lower but has a big torx to open………)
/edit so now as I am thinking more and more about it I get more and more worried. Headed over to the 80 series section and asked them since they got the same gearbox in their manual 80s
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I'm jealous of that service pit. I wouldn't sweat much over an extra .1L.
Checked here in Germany on amazon for something like „oil pump car“ and found it. Shortly switched the store and found something similar-> https://a.co/d/7JYJl1o
/edit answer postet two times, cant delete
Yeah I am happy to have it in the garage. Like a year after I moved in this was the next garage that was aviable. Three cars deep (so its with 60sqm 5sqm bigger than my apartment hehe) and my landlord was digging it by hand 25 years ago when he was 18…
A bit too deep with 2m by I don’t want complain.
But still depending on the source (now a few hours later I have a wide range of 2.5-3l for the H150f gearbox) it could be up to a half liter more and that can maybe cause foaming what leads to bad oil performance. - and I want to know.
/update
So yeah also in the 80s section they say it should be the plug on the LH side. Looks like the PO didn’t care much about and switched them. Drained now to the lower level of that screw with the 55 torx.
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Had a great shop install BP51s and SPC UCA's and brought her home today 
These UCA's dont have a lube port like my older ones did but otherwise, same goodness I know and enjoy. Will put a fast 6k miles on em around the holidays, so glad to have it done with a little time to spare.
These UCA's dont have a lube port like my older ones did but otherwise, same goodness I know and enjoy. Will put a fast 6k miles on em around the holidays, so glad to have it done with a little time to spare.
Surprisingly easy job, thanks to the guides and tips. Paid extra attention to clean out the tensioner hex hole of debris because its prone to strip. I also filed down a hex with a round bottom so it had sharp edges for the best contact.
Raising the front up on stands and removing the front passenger wheel gave easy access to remove the PS pump from the wheel well. Also having it raised made it easy to purge the air out of the system by cycling steering wheel
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Got my closeout coopers mounted yesterday afternoon. Shoutout to Bears Tires (I’ve been going there so long it used to be Bears Used Tires). They got me in and out in 30 minutes including the spare.
Initial impressions are great ride, love the clearance, no rubbing on any fender plastics, and just an ever so slightly kiss of the drivers side front tire on the Kdss bar at full full lock. Oh and I saw this drive by me at the stop sign this morning…
Initial impressions are great ride, love the clearance, no rubbing on any fender plastics, and just an ever so slightly kiss of the drivers side front tire on the Kdss bar at full full lock. Oh and I saw this drive by me at the stop sign this morning…
Hi- still pretty happy with the Dakota Lithium solution under hood with Redarc DCDC and 200W solar. I’m using a Victron battery fuel gauge- I didn’t get the Dakota gauge and I don’t believe the BMS in my battery has any output functions.
Oil in tcase and both diffs as well as lubing the propshafts
Our neighborhood apparently has been victim to a theft ring that remains unsolved. We learned today that our neighbors 2020 Toyota Highlander was also stolen about a week later. AirTag your cars and trucks kids.
