How To: Replace your own steering rack (3 Viewers)

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Unfortunately I noticed a couple wet spots on my driveway this weekend. Crawling under the truck it looks like the drivers side is leaking now. Not sure if it is the TREs leaking or the Rack all together but assuming the worst. Got a bottle of AT-205 showing up today that I will throw in the system to see if it will help plug things but gotta make things last a while, don't really have the money to throw a whole new rack in there at the moment.
 
If I buy the "Rack And Pinion Assembly - (44250-60050)" from Toyota, does it come with new bushing?

It will come with the two rack mounted bushings but not the single 'D' bushing. (Early Model shown).
Steering Rack.jpg


You can install the poly Whiteline bushings if you like but I kept the OEM bushings in the rack and only used the Whiteline D bushing.

Of course, you can use the Toyota OEM rubber D bushing as well.

Whiteline Bushings.jpg
 
Unfortunately I noticed a couple wet spots on my driveway this weekend. Crawling under the truck it looks like the drivers side is leaking now. Not sure if it is the TREs leaking or the Rack all together but assuming the worst. Got a bottle of AT-205 showing up today that I will throw in the system to see if it will help plug things but gotta make things last a while, don't really have the money to throw a whole new rack in there at the moment.
I let my rack leaked for 3 years now. And I wheeled my rig fairly hard, Moab, CO, Baja Mexico, and local trails here. And I top off the fluid every couple of months. It is only recently it is making a horrible stretching noise that I decided to replace it.

I read that sometimes those sealant bottles can cause more harm than good. If you're budget-minded like me, just let it leak and top it off with fluid.
 
@gregnash Have you flushed the system out yet?
I noticed both of my boots were wet looking on the lower portion but no drips. That was around 150k. I pulled the reservoir, thoroughly cleaned it, reinstalled, and flushed the system with a some synthetic ATF that was treated with AT-205. I left the treated ATF in there for 5k miles at which time it went from Max Hot to Min Hot on the reservoir. Flushed it again with treated ATF. Then at 160k, I flushed it a third time but with straight synthetic ATF. I’m now at 173k and it’s not touching the Max hot mark but it is closer to the max than the min mark.
Just sharing my results with the AT-205. I’m going to let it go and I’ll assess again at 200k when I do the TB/WP / front end rubber refresh.
 
Thanks for the info guys.
As I have just noticed this I have not really done anything to it yet. I am going to give her a bath tonight and clean that area to see if the leak persists. I do know that I need new outer TREs as the ball joint on the passenger side is loose enough that when I did my axles a number of months ago I had to hold onto the shaft with a pair of channel locks otherwise the shaft and ball would just spin in the socket when trying to get it to torque.

When I first bought the truck a year ago I noticed that the boots were seeping a bit, not really wet but wet enough that grime had clung to the boot. Now this drivers side one is actively leaking, enough so that I have drips on the driveway (like I said). It could be that the boot is worn and needs to be replaced but likely that at the very minimum the TREs (inner and outer) need to be replaced.
 
Just a quick question here for when my rack goes--it's leaking a bit. I've done two PHH's on 80's, did a complete front axle rebuild on my 80 and did the Driver's Side Exhaust Manifold replacement on my 100, in addition to the simple routine maintenance like brakes, radiator replacements, etc. on all of our vehicles. (Tundra, BMW X3, Z06 Corvette, etc.). In your opinion, is the steering rack easier or harder than the exhaust manifold? I did not find the exhaust manifold difficult per say, just tedious. It's not my DD, so it can sit in my garage over several days while I curse at it. Just curious as I always do my own work but it sounds like the rack is pretty brutal. Thanks.
 
Just a quick question here for when my rack goes--it's leaking a bit. I've done two PHH's on 80's, did a complete front axle rebuild on my 80 and did the Driver's Side Exhaust Manifold replacement on my 100, in addition to the simple routine maintenance like brakes, radiator replacements, etc. on all of our vehicles. (Tundra, BMW X3, Z06 Corvette, etc.). In your opinion, is the steering rack easier or harder than the exahust manifold? It's not my DD, so it can sit in my garage over several days while I curse at it. Just curious as I always do my own work but it sounds like the rack is pretty brutal. Thanks.

You are well qualified to perform this job then. It is especially helpful that you can take your time doing it.

It isn't a technical job....but some of the bolts are in tight quarters and working the rack out can be tedious. But if you are patient and read up on it first (like I didn't)....you'll be fine.
 
Okay, thank you. I appreciate your input. I hate paying more in labor than the for the part.

You are well qualified to perform this job then. It is especially helpful that you can take your time doing it.

It isn't a technical job....but some of the bolts are in tight quarters and working the rack out can be tedious. But if you are patient and read up on it first (like I didn't)....you'll be fine.
 
Okay, thank you. I appreciate your input. I hate paying more in labor than the for the part.

You bet.

Plus you know it was done right!

I'm 66 yrs. old and if I can get my old, decrepit azz under there and do it....then surely you can.

DO read up on it first though.
 
After the exhaust manifold I thought back to when I did my first PHH after owning my first 80. I did it two weeks after buying it and did the axle rebuild 4 weeks after buying it. I grew up fast after that. The 2nd PHH on my brother's LX was a piece of cake however--we went the bypass method. On hour and done.
 
You bet.

Plus you know it was done right!

I'm 66 yrs. old and if I can get my old, decrepit azz under there and do it....then surely you can.

DO read up on it first though.
+1 - Flintnapper has some good info on the "while you are in there" maintenance items that are exponentially easier to address with the rack out. You'll save money in the end.
 
Unfortunately I noticed a couple wet spots on my driveway this weekend. Crawling under the truck it looks like the drivers side is leaking now. Not sure if it is the TREs leaking or the Rack all together but assuming the worst. Got a bottle of AT-205 showing up today that I will throw in the system to see if it will help plug things but gotta make things last a while, don't really have the money to throw a whole new rack in there at the moment.

At about 195k (it's in my log) I had AT-205 put in a system. It did stop problem for a while and I even thought it worked. But around 203-205k it started to drip and now I have drips in garage. I will be taking care of whole thing. I will be rebuilding pump as well (and replace hoses). Pump kit is cheap and I don't know what happened to all rubber stuff after AT205. But I did put it in knowing it's not going to last, more as experiment.
 
Just a quick question here for when my rack goes--it's leaking a bit. I've done two PHH's on 80's, did a complete front axle rebuild on my 80 and did the Driver's Side Exhaust Manifold replacement on my 100, in addition to the simple routine maintenance like brakes, radiator replacements, etc. on all of our vehicles. (Tundra, BMW X3, Z06 Corvette, etc.). In your opinion, is the steering rack easier or harder than the exhaust manifold? I did not find the exhaust manifold difficult per say, just tedious. It's not my DD, so it can sit in my garage over several days while I curse at it. Just curious as I always do my own work but it sounds like the rack is pretty brutal. Thanks.
Few tips (assumes LH engine lift method):
1) Spray penetrating oil in advance on: LH engine mounts bolts and Intermediate to input shaft bolt and splines.
2) Turn steering wheel 180 degrees RH, to make loosen bolt of Intermediate to Input shaft bolt easier to remove. Once bolt loosened or out, you can turn wheel back 180 degrees LH to center and lock. Having center for straight forward travel, will aid late during install. New rack has marks for center. Rebuilt, measure that inner TRE extent on each side is equally out.
3) Remove fan should bolts. Lifting engine can break shroud otherwise.
 
Appreciate it. Just had my DS engine mount up to replace exhaust manifold so that's no problem. Have an OEM Mexico-Spec radiator sitting here ready to go in--would be a good time to do the rack too since shroud comes out for both. Hmmmmm.....
 
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+1 - Flintnapper has some good info on the "while you are in there" maintenance items that are exponentially easier to address with the rack out. You'll save money in the end.
@flintknapper can you provide some of these "while you are in there" items? Looking to do my rack and potentially a front end refresh when I do mine.
 
@flintknapper can you provide some of these "while you are in there" items? Looking to do my rack and potentially a front end refresh when I do mine.

Basically its a good time to evaluate all the components of the front end. Consider which ones you'll be removing/disconnecting in order to remove the steering rack and then decide whether or not they need attention too. Be aware, this adds significantly to the time required to complete the job.

IF the hoses and seals on your Oil Cooler (the oil filter screws onto this) are leaking or simply old, this is an item you might want to service AND removing it makes it possible to extract the steering rack without having to loosen the drivers side motor mount and jack up the engine.

In my case....I had plenty of time to work on the vehicle so elected to just refresh the entire front end. I replaced some items that were still serviceable but since I intend to keep the vehicle until I croak, I just went ahead and replaced/reconditioned all the bushings, bearings, brakes, etc....

I'm not advocating everyone do this, since its quite a job. Its just something I chose to do. But the point of it is this: The removal of the steering rack has you down there (front end) anyway so its a good time to clean things up and inspect.

If you are thorough...odds are you'll find other items in need of attention. For me, not a big deal. I'm retired and have the time to do it. I also have other vehicles to drive, but that will not be the case for everyone.....so choose which items you want/need to work on and do those.


As you can see below, you can get pretty deep into it if you do the whole front end.

frt parts ready1.jpg
 
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Basically its a good time to evaluate all the components of the front end. Consider which ones you'll be removing/disconnecting in order to remove the steering rack and then decide whether or not they need attention too. Be aware, this add significantly to the time required to complete the job.

IF the hoses and seals on your Oil Cooler (the oil filter screws onto this) are leaking or simply old, this is an item you might want to service AND removing it makes it possible to extract the steering rack without having to loosen the drivers side motor mount and jack up the engine.

In my case....I had plenty of time to work on the vehicle so elected to just refresh the entire front end. I replaced some items that were still serviceable but since I intend to keep the vehicle until I croak, I just went ahead and replaced/reconditioned all the bushings, bearings, brakes, etc....

I'm not advocating everyone do this, since its quite a job. Its just something I chose to do. But the point of it is this: The removal of the steering rack has you down there (front end) anyway so its a good time to clean things up and inspect.

If you are thorough...odds are you'll find other items in need of attention. For me, not a big deal. I'm retired and have the time to do it. I also have other vehicles to drive, but that will not be the case for everyone.....so choose which items you want/need to work on and do those.


As you can see below, you can get pretty deep into it if do the whole front end.

View attachment 2567618
This here gets the "While You're In There Award" for front end preventative maintenance!!! ;)
 
Basically its a good time to evaluate all the components of the front end. Consider which ones you'll be removing/disconnecting in order to remove the steering rack and then decide whether or not they need attention too. Be aware, this add significantly to the time required to complete the job.

IF the hoses and seals on your Oil Cooler (the oil filter screws onto this) are leaking or simply old, this is an item you might want to service AND removing it makes it possible to extract the steering rack without having to loosen the drivers side motor mount and jack up the engine.

In my case....I had plenty of time to work on the vehicle so elected to just refresh the entire front end. I replaced some items that were still serviceable but since I intend to keep the vehicle until I croak, I just went ahead and replaced/reconditioned all the bushings, bearings, brakes, etc....

I'm not advocating everyone do this, since its quite a job. Its just something I chose to do. But the point of it is this: The removal of the steering rack has you down there (front end) anyway so its a good time to clean things up and inspect.

If you are thorough...odds are you'll find other items in need of attention. For me, not a big deal. I'm retired and have the time to do it. I also have other vehicles to drive, but that will not be the case for everyone.....so choose which items you want/need to work on and do those.


As you can see below, you can get pretty deep into it if do the whole front end.

View attachment 2567618
Exactly what I was looking to do while I'm in there. Thank you so very much!

How much did all of this run you?
 
Exactly what I was looking to do while I'm in there. Thank you so very much!

How much did all of this run you?

Didn't keep track of the parts cost. I did all of the labor (except front end alignment) and have all the tools necessary to accomplish it, so the overall cost was not significant. Time consuming, but worth it to me.
 

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