Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Did you measure the tie rod adjustment before you removed the old rack? It sounds like you just need to adjust it on the passenger side.
How To: Replace your own steering rack (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter ENGINE er
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I did...just got back in from detaching the tie rod and using a string to compare the old one with the new one. The new rack is over an inch shorter than the old one on the passenger side. Now I'm contacting the seller. We'll see what happens. Thanks, anyway.
Hey there, it sounds like the tie rod ends may not be threaded on to the steering rack ends the same amount on both sides. Did you happen to count the number of threads showing at the tie rod ends before disassembling?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Sound like steering wheel, set off center. Center rack, which puts inner TRE's out same distance. New OEM racks have paint on input shaft and its boot, to help align rack dead on. Then center steering wheel/column #2 intermedia u-joint clamp on to input shaft. I like to be with one or two teeth of spline, centered.
Great care must be/have been taken. To not turn steering wheel, when not connected. Free spin it to far, breaks clock spring.
Make sure you the correct outer TRE. We've two different lengths: 98-02 & 03-07 are different.
Great care must be/have been taken. To not turn steering wheel, when not connected. Free spin it to far, breaks clock spring.
Make sure you the correct outer TRE. We've two different lengths: 98-02 & 03-07 are different.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I thought you meant the overall length of the new rack was shorter, with one side being short but not the other. If that's the case then return it and get the correct rack.
2001LC
SILVER Star
He did mean!
But not likely. The rack, is a solid shaft running through housing. Housing mounts to frame. If it mounted, hooked up to intermedia shaft and outer TRE. It's improbable, to have the wrong rack.
Did you count number of threads or turns of outer tie rods before taking it apart?
Did you lock the wheel with a rope or something before taking it apart to make sure it is still at center after install?
I think there is one more catch like marking to make sure rack was centered. Have to look at my own posts to remember
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Centering the rack is the key to great happiness!
Replacing a late model steering rack in an 04 rig. The bolt washers 90105-14121 are not long enough to go through the cross member and the steering rack. I have not been able to find new bolts so I was planning on reusing the old ones and using thread locker. Has anyone been able to source new bolts or know the part number?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Been watching this thread over the years. Now need a rack for a '99 LX470 (44250-60050).
Partsouq is $1133+ shipping and TRDshop.com is $674. Did I miss something? Partsouq is typically cheaper, but not here. Where else (besides my local dealer) should I look? Also, where does one source the 'poly bushings' (or should I just get rubber/OEM)?
Thanks - Steve
Partsouq is $1133+ shipping and TRDshop.com is $674. Did I miss something? Partsouq is typically cheaper, but not here. Where else (besides my local dealer) should I look? Also, where does one source the 'poly bushings' (or should I just get rubber/OEM)?
Thanks - Steve
I got from EB Toyota in Feb 2023. Partsouq is expensive of larger items.
44250-60050 | 1998-2003 Toyota Land Cruiser - Rack And Pinion Assembly | $642.14 | 1 | $642.14 |
I called, and my local dealer essentially matched all the online prices, so that was cool.
About to undergo steering rack replacement, and had just a few questions for point of clarification since this thread was created in 2012.
The steering wheel should be locked before disconnecting the driveshaft splines to keep the clock spring in the wheel from getting damaged?
Is the preferred, easier, and less messy way to just unbolt the driver side engine mount and jack up the engine about an inch? Where is the best jacking point for this? (as opposed to removing the oil filter housing)
When re-installing the rack, I saw you have to align the new rack. Does that mean basically just turning the new rack pinion so that it aligns as closely as possible with how the old rack came out? How can you tell since the boot is on? Or, am I not understanding this correctly, and the new rack needs to be dead center ie; count how many turns to left, how many turns to right and dead center it to the steering shaft with locked wheel?
The steering wheel should be locked before disconnecting the driveshaft splines to keep the clock spring in the wheel from getting damaged?
Is the preferred, easier, and less messy way to just unbolt the driver side engine mount and jack up the engine about an inch? Where is the best jacking point for this? (as opposed to removing the oil filter housing)
When re-installing the rack, I saw you have to align the new rack. Does that mean basically just turning the new rack pinion so that it aligns as closely as possible with how the old rack came out? How can you tell since the boot is on? Or, am I not understanding this correctly, and the new rack needs to be dead center ie; count how many turns to left, how many turns to right and dead center it to the steering shaft with locked wheel?
@100d ua
- It helps to secure the steering wheel straight to prevent damage to the clock spring and to make getting the steering shaft splines lined up with the new rack easier.
- I found that lifting the driver side motor mount enough to stick a piece of 2x4 scrap between the mount and frame worked great. I lifted the motor where the bell housing bolts to the block. I used another long piece of 2x4 to help distribute the load. The motor lifted easy and this did not require removing the oil filter adapter.
- You want the rack to be centered before you mate it to the steering shaft splines (which should still be centered if your steering wheel was secured at the beginning of the project).
- It helps to secure the steering wheel straight to prevent damage to the clock spring and to make getting the steering shaft splines lined up with the new rack easier.
- I found that lifting the driver side motor mount enough to stick a piece of 2x4 scrap between the mount and frame worked great. I lifted the motor where the bell housing bolts to the block. I used another long piece of 2x4 to help distribute the load. The motor lifted easy and this did not require removing the oil filter adapter.
- You want the rack to be centered before you mate it to the steering shaft splines (which should still be centered if your steering wheel was secured at the beginning of the project).
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
Start job by flushing all fluid out. Wheels off the ground, reservoir empty, return line pulled from reservoir and run to catch can. Turn steering wheel lock (stop) to lock, slowly, holding at lock 3 second. Repeat until no more fluid comes out return line.
Steering Flush & Cleaning
Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...
forum.ih8mud.com
I count the threads between inner and outer TRE ends. If they're not the same -+ ~2 thread. I'll adjust so same count on both side, and same total. Example: Say I see 8 thread on LH and 12 on RH (total 20). I'll reset with 10 threads on each side. As I like then, as even as I can get them, before going in for alignment service, when job is done. I almost always replace old outer TRE, with new R&P. Inners come with new R&P.
In the 98-02, they have a rubber horseshoe bushing on PS. I replace it with OEM.
I unbolt DS engine mount, unbolt fan shroud, placing jack on DS of bell housing forward rim (large part of bell of bellhousing) to lift. As I lift, I make sure fan shroud moves up as fan blades contact it and heat tees hoses don't get too screeched.
Tie off or lock steering wheel, is a good idea. If you turn steering wheel (SW) to much (more than 2 turns from factory clock spring set) or reset at say 360 off it current position, you will bust clock spring.
I just note how far I turn SW (CW ~180 degrees), to get the 12mm head of the intermediate shaft lock bolt (locks it to pinion input shaft) where I like, for easy access from below. I'm careful, to not turn SW when freed from R&P, any more than I need. I make sure, I know which direction I've turn, at all times.
I remove oil filter only. I do NOT remove the oil filter bracket oil cooler housing/bracket. I bend the oil filter drip shoot, up out of the way a bit.
I use a 17mm (IIRC) crowfoot flare nut socket, for LP line union nut.
The new rack & pinion, is painted with alignment lines at pinion, pinion input shaft and its boot. You'll see that when inner TRE are out the same distance from rack, on each side. These paint lines will align. During assemble, I align these paint line. Then turn steering wheel (SW) back the 180 degrees (CCW), so it is level/centered for straight ahead driving. I then attach intermedia shaff to R&P. I then place R&P mounting bolts in loosely. Then check that paints lines are still aligned and SW dead-on centered for straight driving. If SW not centered. I pull out mount bolts, pull off intermediate shaft from R&P input shaft and turn steering wheel to align splines of input shaft of pinion with those of intermediate shaft u-joint clamp splines. Once I happy with alignment of SW (centered) and R&P alignment lines. I install the 12mm bolt that locks intermediate shaft to input shaft and torque to 25ft-lbf. Then with R&P mounting bolts in loosely, I wiggle R&P side to side, to find where it feels like centered on mounting bolts. I then torque mounting bolts.
I never beat off TRE or ball joints, I use pullers. I have (before I had a puller) pound out, by hitting down on stud.
How far the steering wheel turns, is controlled by Knuckle stops. They control how far SW turns before stopping. These are set at factory or by alignment shop. You should not need to touch them. Also depends on if VRGS (LX 03-07) and active or none VRGS (LX 98-02, Land Cruiser 98-07).
See links in my master thread below, under steering for more help!
I guess I wasn’t understanding why the steering wheel would need to be turned once the steering rack is disconnected from the intermediate shaft. It’s just to align the two components right?Start job by flushing all fluid out. Wheels off the ground, reservoir empty, return line pulled from reservoir and run to catch can. Turn steering wheel lock (stop) to lock, slowly, holding at lock 3 second. Repeat until no more fluid comes out return line.
Steering Flush & Cleaning
Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...
I count the threads between inner and outer TRE ends. If they're not the same -+ ~2 thread. I'll adjust so same count on both side, and same total. Example: Say I see 8 thread on LH and 12 on RH (total 20). I'll reset with 10 threads on each side. As I like then, as even as I can get them, before going in for alignment service, when job is done. I almost always replace old outer TRE, with new R&P. Inners come with new R&P.
In the 98-02, they have a rubber horseshoe bushing on PS. I replace it with OEM.
I unbolt DS engine mount, unbolt fan shroud, placing jack on DS of bell housing forward rim (large part of bell of bellhousing) to lift. As I lift, I make sure fan shroud moves up as fan blades contact it and heat tees hoses don't get too screeched.
Tie off or lock steering wheel, is a good idea. If you turn steering wheel (SW) to much (more than 2 turns from factory clock spring set) or reset at say 360 off it current position, you will bust clock spring.
I just note how far I turn SW (CW ~180 degrees), to get the 12mm head of the intermediate shaft lock bolt (locks it to pinion input shaft) where I like, for easy access from below. I'm careful, to not turn SW when freed from R&P, any more than I need. I make sure, I know which direction I've turn, at all times.
I remove oil filter only. I do NOT remove the oil filter bracket oil cooler housing/bracket. I bend the oil filter drip shoot, up out of the way a bit.
I use a 17mm (IIRC) crowfoot flare nut socket, for LP line union nut.
The new rack & pinion, is painted with alignment lines at pinion, pinion input shaft and its boot. You'll see that when inner TRE are out the same distance from rack, on each side. These paint lines will align. During assemble, I align these paint line. Then turn steering wheel (SW) back the 180 degrees (CCW), so it is level/centered for straight ahead driving. I then attach intermedia shaff to R&P. I then place R&P mounting bolts in loosely. Then check that paints lines are still aligned and SW dead-on centered for straight driving. If SW not centered. I pull out mount bolts, pull off intermediate shaft from R&P input shaft and turn steering wheel to align splines of input shaft of pinion with those of intermediate shaft u-joint clamp splines. Once I happy with alignment of SW (centered) and R&P alignment lines. I install the 12mm bolt that locks intermediate shaft to input shaft and torque to 25ft-lbf. Then with R&P mounting bolts in loosely, I wiggle R&P side to side, to find where it feels like centered on mounting bolts. I then torque mounting bolts.
I never beat off TRE or ball joints, I use pullers. I have (before I had a puller) pound out, by hitting down on stud.
How far the steering wheel turns, is controlled by Knuckle stops. They control how far SW turns before stopping. These are set at factory or by alignment shop. You should not need to touch them. Also depends on if VRGS (LX 03-07) and active or none VRGS (LX 98-02, Land Cruiser 98-07).
See links in my master thread below, under steering for more help!
Just finished this job and wanted to note the crush washer *must* be replaced. I completely missed it and re-used the old one and now my rack is pissing fluid. Oh well, 10 minute fix but i'm going to lose some new fluid.
Also wanted to provide a little feedback having just completed this.
With regards to removing the steering shaft from the rack. It's actually not as bad as people make it out to be *unless* you have heavy rust.
1) Disconnect everything from the rack, have only the passenger side bushing lightly threaded in the (2) bolts 2-3 turns just so it's caught thread.
2) Head over to the driver side, remove the bolt holding the shaft to the rack (at the rack end).
3) At the driver side of the rack, use your hands to push the rack up as much as it will go, then push it forward as much as it will go (towards front of car) and give it a few smacks downwards towards the frame it rests on.
Depending on how stuck it is, it may take a few taps. I learned this the hard way when I was trying to line up the steering shaft and wheel so it was dead center and even. You'll notice that once you reconnect the shaft and rack it can be difficult to remove again to move splines.
Note: I did not remove the bolt at the firewall side of the steering shaft.
Did my rack yesterday and had a few observations. The victim is a '99 LX with 330K and some exposure to Colorado salt/water over the years. I read all the Mud threads and greatly benefitted from all the observations. My rack was leaking at the input shaft and left a tennis-ball sized pool every day on the office parking lot.
I bought an OEM new steering rack, 2 OEM outer tie rods, and a new OEM 'D' bushing for the steering rack. Total parts cost ~$900. I needed an oil change, so it was handy to pull the filter at this time, and just do the oil change, too.
YMMV - but here's what I found:
#0 - Read this entire thread twice before starting this crazy project.
#1 - The brand-new steering rack from the Toyota dealer had witness marks aligned on the input shaft, but was NOT centered. This caused havoc later. I should have used a tape measure and centered the new rack. I should have also centered the old rack before teardown, so that I didn't lose track of where 'centered' was on the steering wheel. I wasted a TON of time dis-engaging and re-engaging the rack so that the left-right steering is the same. I suspect I am off by 1 spline, but tough cookies. I'm amazed I didn't rip out the spiral cable with all my wheel jockeying. Once you lose track of where the steering wheel started, you're kinda screwed.
#2 - You do not need to adjust either rack (new or old) so that the driver's side is as short as possible - my new rack (center) popped right in and was centered. Plenty of room to push it to the pass. side and get the driver's side into place. I don't even know how I would have adjusted the new rack to one extreme without damaging the input shaft.
#3 - (See pix) If your steering rack input spline connection is rusted (mine was), disconnect the middle shaft bolt (near the firewall) and pull out the rack with the mid-steering shaft (18" long) attached to the rack assembly. I did this, and then spread the spline cut with a chisel, and pounded the shaft off the rack with a pickle fork. It was THAT rusted. I took a tiny triangular file and filed the rust off each spline until the bottom shaft socket smoothly engaged with the new rack. I then slobbered it up with anti-seize compound. At least the u-joint operated smoothly, so my middle shaft was ok to use.
#4 - Buy new tie rod end lock nuts. Mine were ultra tight and had to leave them on the inner TREs until I pulled the rack and then heat them cherry red with an oxy/acet. torch, and back them off with a giant 1 1/16" SAE wrench, which fit them perfectly. New nuts would have saved a lot of time.
#5 - My factory TRE studs were incredibly hard to separate from the knuckle, even with a quality TRE separator tool. They finally went 'kaboom' and let loose.
#6 - Jacking up the left side of the engine 1.5" was critical.
#7 - My driver's side control arm appears to have retained about 1 pint (joking, but it seems like that much) of ATF which has dribbled all over my garage floor and scared me into thinking I had a big leak. What a pain. No way to prevent this. I parked the truck on my dirt driveway tonight.
#8 - I totally guessed on the alignment, but it's super close. The steering is now incredibly tight and precise. An alignment will surely help.
#9 - All my 330K mile inner/outer TREs did not have real play, nor did any of the bushings on the rack, which were in excellent shape. Factory parts are good stuff!
#10 - If you smoke a brisket all day long while doing this job (which took all day, plus), at least you have a nice dinner reward.
I bought an OEM new steering rack, 2 OEM outer tie rods, and a new OEM 'D' bushing for the steering rack. Total parts cost ~$900. I needed an oil change, so it was handy to pull the filter at this time, and just do the oil change, too.
YMMV - but here's what I found:
#0 - Read this entire thread twice before starting this crazy project.
#1 - The brand-new steering rack from the Toyota dealer had witness marks aligned on the input shaft, but was NOT centered. This caused havoc later. I should have used a tape measure and centered the new rack. I should have also centered the old rack before teardown, so that I didn't lose track of where 'centered' was on the steering wheel. I wasted a TON of time dis-engaging and re-engaging the rack so that the left-right steering is the same. I suspect I am off by 1 spline, but tough cookies. I'm amazed I didn't rip out the spiral cable with all my wheel jockeying. Once you lose track of where the steering wheel started, you're kinda screwed.
#2 - You do not need to adjust either rack (new or old) so that the driver's side is as short as possible - my new rack (center) popped right in and was centered. Plenty of room to push it to the pass. side and get the driver's side into place. I don't even know how I would have adjusted the new rack to one extreme without damaging the input shaft.
#3 - (See pix) If your steering rack input spline connection is rusted (mine was), disconnect the middle shaft bolt (near the firewall) and pull out the rack with the mid-steering shaft (18" long) attached to the rack assembly. I did this, and then spread the spline cut with a chisel, and pounded the shaft off the rack with a pickle fork. It was THAT rusted. I took a tiny triangular file and filed the rust off each spline until the bottom shaft socket smoothly engaged with the new rack. I then slobbered it up with anti-seize compound. At least the u-joint operated smoothly, so my middle shaft was ok to use.
#4 - Buy new tie rod end lock nuts. Mine were ultra tight and had to leave them on the inner TREs until I pulled the rack and then heat them cherry red with an oxy/acet. torch, and back them off with a giant 1 1/16" SAE wrench, which fit them perfectly. New nuts would have saved a lot of time.
#5 - My factory TRE studs were incredibly hard to separate from the knuckle, even with a quality TRE separator tool. They finally went 'kaboom' and let loose.
#6 - Jacking up the left side of the engine 1.5" was critical.
#7 - My driver's side control arm appears to have retained about 1 pint (joking, but it seems like that much) of ATF which has dribbled all over my garage floor and scared me into thinking I had a big leak. What a pain. No way to prevent this. I parked the truck on my dirt driveway tonight.
#8 - I totally guessed on the alignment, but it's super close. The steering is now incredibly tight and precise. An alignment will surely help.
#9 - All my 330K mile inner/outer TREs did not have real play, nor did any of the bushings on the rack, which were in excellent shape. Factory parts are good stuff!
#10 - If you smoke a brisket all day long while doing this job (which took all day, plus), at least you have a nice dinner reward.
Subscribing to this as the job is in my very near future 
