Start job by flushing all fluid out. Wheels off the ground, reservoir empty, return line pulled from reservoir and run to catch can. Turn steering wheel lock (stop) to lock, slowly, holding at lock 3 second. Repeat until no more fluid comes out return line.
Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...
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I count the threads between inner and outer TRE ends. If they're not the same -+ ~2 thread. I'll adjust so same count on both side, and same total. Example: Say I see 8 thread on LH and 12 on RH (total 20). I'll reset with 10 threads on each side. As I like then, as even as I can get them, before going in for alignment service, when job is done. I almost always replace old outer TRE, with new R&P. Inners come with new R&P.
In the 98-02, they have a rubber horseshoe bushing on PS. I replace it with OEM.
I unbolt DS engine mount, unbolt fan shroud, placing jack on DS of bell housing forward rim (large part of bell of bellhousing) to lift. As I lift, I make sure fan shroud moves up as fan blades contact it and heat tees hoses don't get too screeched.
Tie off or lock steering wheel, is a good idea. If you turn steering wheel (SW) to much (more than 2 turns from factory clock spring set) or reset at say 360 off it current position, you will bust clock spring.
I just note how far I turn SW (CW ~180 degrees), to get the 12mm head of the intermediate shaft lock bolt (locks it to pinion input shaft) where I like, for easy access from below. I'm careful, to not turn SW when freed from R&P, any more than I need. I make sure, I know which direction I've turn, at all times.
I remove oil filter only. I do NOT remove the oil filter bracket oil cooler housing/bracket. I bend the oil filter drip shoot, up out of the way a bit.
I use a 17mm (IIRC) crowfoot flare nut socket, for LP line union nut.
The new rack & pinion, is painted with alignment lines at pinion, pinion input shaft and its boot. You'll see that when inner TRE are out the same distance from rack, on each side. These paint lines will align. During assemble, I align these paint line. Then turn steering wheel (SW) back the 180 degrees (CCW), so it is level/centered for straight ahead driving. I then attach intermedia shaff to R&P. I then place R&P mounting bolts in loosely. Then check that paints lines are still aligned and SW dead-on centered for straight driving. If SW not centered. I pull out mount bolts, pull off intermediate shaft from R&P input shaft and turn steering wheel to align splines of input shaft of pinion with those of intermediate shaft u-joint clamp splines. Once I happy with alignment of SW (centered) and R&P alignment lines. I install the 12mm bolt that locks intermediate shaft to input shaft and torque to 25ft-lbf. Then with R&P mounting bolts in loosely, I wiggle R&P side to side, to find where it feels like centered on mounting bolts. I then torque mounting bolts.
I never beat off TRE or ball joints, I use pullers. I have (before I had a puller) pound out, by hitting down on stud.
How far the steering wheel turns, is controlled by Knuckle stops. They control how far SW turns before stopping. These are set at factory or by alignment shop. You should not need to touch them. Also depends on if VRGS (LX 03-07) and active or none VRGS (LX 98-02, Land Cruiser 98-07).
See links in my master thread below, under steering for more help!