How To: Replace your own steering rack (4 Viewers)

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Finally got the new rack in and the passenger wheel is significantly toe-in. Not sure I could even drive it to a shop. The driver side wheel seems pretty close to 0. This is only my second post and I am definitely NOT an expert...but I've done a fair number of repairs on various vehicles over the years. This one is definitely about to push me over the edge.
Did you measure the tie rod adjustment before you removed the old rack? It sounds like you just need to adjust it on the passenger side.
 
Did you measure the tie rod adjustment before you removed the old rack? It sounds like you just need to adjust it on the passenger side.
I did...just got back in from detaching the tie rod and using a string to compare the old one with the new one. The new rack is over an inch shorter than the old one on the passenger side. Now I'm contacting the seller. We'll see what happens. Thanks, anyway.
 
Finally got the new rack in and the passenger wheel is significantly toe-in. Not sure I could even drive it to a shop. The driver side wheel seems pretty close to 0. This is only my second post and I am definitely NOT an expert...but I've done a fair number of repairs on various vehicles over the years. This one is definitely about to push me over the edge.
Hey there, it sounds like the tie rod ends may not be threaded on to the steering rack ends the same amount on both sides. Did you happen to count the number of threads showing at the tie rod ends before disassembling?
 
Sound like steering wheel, set off center. Center rack, which puts inner TRE's out same distance. New OEM racks have paint on input shaft and its boot, to help align rack dead on. Then center steering wheel/column #2 intermedia u-joint clamp on to input shaft. I like to be with one or two teeth of spline, centered.

Great care must be/have been taken. To not turn steering wheel, when not connected. Free spin it to far, breaks clock spring.

Make sure you the correct outer TRE. We've two different lengths: 98-02 & 03-07 are different.
 
I thought you meant the overall length of the new rack was shorter, with one side being short but not the other. If that's the case then return it and get the correct rack.
 
I thought you meant the overall length of the new rack was shorter, with one side being short but not the other. If that's the case then return it and get the correct rack.
He did mean!
But not likely. The rack, is a solid shaft running through housing. Housing mounts to frame. If it mounted, hooked up to intermedia shaft and outer TRE. It's improbable, to have the wrong rack.
 
Finally got the new rack in and the passenger wheel is significantly toe-in. Not sure I could even drive it to a shop. The driver side wheel seems pretty close to 0. This is only my second post and I am definitely NOT an expert...but I've done a fair number of repairs on various vehicles over the years. This one is definitely about to push me over the edge.
Did you count number of threads or turns of outer tie rods before taking it apart?
Did you lock the wheel with a rope or something before taking it apart to make sure it is still at center after install?
I think there is one more catch like marking to make sure rack was centered. Have to look at my own posts to remember :)
 
Sound like steering wheel, set off center. Center rack, which puts inner TRE's out same distance. New OEM racks have paint on input shaft and its boot, to help align rack dead on. Then center steering wheel/column #2 intermedia u-joint clamp on to input shaft. I like to be with one or two teeth of spline, centered.

Great care must be/have been taken. To not turn steering wheel, when not connected. Free spin it to far, breaks clock spring.

Make sure you the correct outer TRE. We've two different lengths: 98-02 & 03-07 are different.
Centering the rack is the key to great happiness!
 

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