Builds The Warthog - 1977/73 combo (1 Viewer)

[wngrog]

FYI it takes a full box of Noico to do the roof

 

[dogfishlake]

Just catching up. Not sure why I didn't have this on "watch thread" . Guess because I am usually all over the Society forum and lately have been delinquent. Anywhoo. Nice work, and looking forward to the hot rod 2f.

And to follow up on the laugh I had a few posts ago....

 

[dogfishlake]

More to tech. Did you have the rear spring perches welded because of the new mount locale of the Cruiser Outfitters lift with the longer rear springs?

Very seriously considering that lift for my oinker.

 

[wngrog]

More to tech. Did you have the rear spring perches welded because of the new mount locale of the Cruiser Outfitters lift with the longer rear springs?

Very seriously considering that lift for my oinker.

Yes. His lift uses 70 series packs. Longer. Smoother. I drilled holes then ran it to make sure the angle was right on my shackles then had my friend burn them in after 1500 miles.

 

[dogfishlake]

Yes. His lift uses 70 series packs. Longer. Smoother. I drilled holes then ran it to make sure the angle was right on my shackles then had my friend burn them in after 1500 miles.

Way cool. High on the want list. The 33's fit but the springs are flat and it just looks wrong on mine. Let alone travel issues.

 

[wngrog]

Way cool. High on the want list. The 33's fit but the springs are flat and it just looks wrong on mine. Let alone travel issues.

Yeah it’s a huge ride improvement. These things are heavy and worn out suspension components make it all worse

 

[dogfishlake]

Yeah it’s a huge ride improvement. These things are heavy and worn out suspension components make it all worse

Thanks. I want it to ride smoother because I really want to log miles in it. Hard to knock the smile off my face when I drive my piggie!

 

[wngrog]

Operation “Quiet this Hog Down” took a big strep forward with the new headliner.

I had a nice drive this am. Nice step forward.

Now the entire inside of the truck bottom, sides and top have a layer.

Next up. A layer of Thinsulate like @cruiserjunktion used on his hog. I’m going to put a layer between the Noico and the rubber mats.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074XLJ4Q1?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

 

[wngrog]

After I got the Thinsulate deployed I took all the scrap and stuffed it into the area where the roof edges are. Just got rid of hollow spaces. I’m going to wait to do the drivers floor for when I do the motor swap. The roll will be about perfect to cover the entire floor of the pig. Great find Deo.

I also used some leftover City Racer hard top to tub gaskets to seal off this area on my tailgate.

Took it for a ride. Definitely worth the $200 invested in a box of Noico and a roll of Thinsulate.

The noise that’s left is coming from the engine. Im planning a few layers of sound deadening Lizard Skin under the hood when the motor comes out. That big piece of tin resonates a lot of sound. Clearly that hood blanket inside the 60 series hood does a lot.

 

[Dustin Messina]

Glad your sorting all this out so when the time comes for my pig you are ready!

 

[wngrog]

Glad your sorting all this out so when the time comes for my pig you are ready!

We can get that interior sorted out soon!

 

[wngrog]

Cleaned up Scotchlock Central where my trailer harness was put in by some other owner.

I was tapping in some lights since my spare tire blocks the tail light completely.

Scored a better exhaust manifold from @Dustin Messina for the new motor as well.

 

[wngrog]

@FJ60Cam has started the process moving

 

[PabloCruise]

Scored a better exhaust manifold from @Dustin Messina for the new motor as well.

View attachment 1862074

What are you going to do with the heat riser?

 

[wngrog]

What are you going to do with the heat riser?

It’s not leaking and the spring looks good so I was just planning on keeping it in there.

You have a better idea?

 

[PabloCruise]

I have to deal with a leak on my 40 (2F), so I was going to see about fixing the flap closed, so the hot exhaust no longer hits the bottom of the intake. At the same time I am thinking about tapping the holes the riser pivots on so they will never leak again.

I am not looking forward to the work, so if I had the opportunity to deal with the manifolds and potential leaks off the engine, I would do so.

You are drilling and tapping the oil galley plug on the head, yes?

 

[wngrog]

I have to deal with a leak on my 40 (2F), so I was going to see about fixing the flap closed, so the hot exhaust no longer hits the bottom of the intake. At the same time I am thinking about tapping the holes the riser pivots on so they will never leak again.

I am not looking forward to the work, so if I had the opportunity to deal with the manifolds and potential leaks off the engine, I would do so.

You are drilling and tapping the oil galley plug on the head, yes?

Gotcha. I had that problem on this truck and the manifold that is in it now and I fixed it by removing the flapper completely.

My ends were leaking so I removed the flapper and the rod.

I put a metal block off plate under the aluminum intake manifold from @cruiseroutfit

On the flapper holes I did not tap mine. I got a bolt that fit and cut a round gasket out of my bulk Remflex material I keep around. It worked perfectly.

I could reuse this one but @Dustin Messina had this low mile manifold he took off his 60 so we had it blasted.

I’m trying to keep the motor I pull out of my 55 as compete as possible to get so I can sell it as a solid running motor that has not been robbed of odds and ends

 

[FJ60Cam]

I have to deal with a leak on my 40 (2F), so I was going to see about fixing the flap closed, so the hot exhaust no longer hits the bottom of the intake. At the same time I am thinking about tapping the holes the riser pivots on so they will never leak again.

I am not looking forward to the work, so if I had the opportunity to deal with the manifolds and potential leaks off the engine, I would do so.

I had one that was missing the flapper, but still had the shaft in there. The machine shop had a nice solution for plugging the holes:

You are drilling and tapping the oil galley plug on the head, yes?

Always!

 

[PabloCruise]

^^^ That's what I'm talking about!

 

[Ol Yeller]

You are drilling and tapping the oil galley plug on the head, yes?

Briefly, what is the issue & where is this plug?

I assume only to be done at full rebuild time.