Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter UZJ40
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- Thread starter
- #62
Haha, really? I'm in to this project $1500 right now. A decent shape 45 is $20k. Then I cut it up and extend it? Add 4 King or Radflo coilovers, there's $3k more. I'd also have weaker axles, a weaker frame, drum brakes, no power steering. And at that point, I'm starting from scratch with suspension design and engine placement. Oh yeah, and I'd have a 50 year old drivetrain still, with no AC.
- Thread starter
- #63
I've read that thread twice, and PMed him with a couple questions. It was helpful.
I don't necessarily like how he mounted his radiator horizontally. I think it is pretty susceptible to all kinds of damage like that. I'm going to put mine toward the front of the bed at about a 10 degree angle.
Just curious. Didn't have to be a 45.....a good 40 with a lengthened frame and your custom bed would do the trick.
Wouldn't be that difficult to swap the 1FZ drivetrain into the 40 or 45, disk brake 40 or 60 series axles, and the mentioned relocated AC system. Didn't know you HAD to use gold plated coilovers. Link/joint material isn't that expensive.
Lots of labor, but you stay with the correct narrow proportions of the vehicle.
Very interesting build either way, and look forward to the finished product and lots of pics.
Wouldn't be that difficult to swap the 1FZ drivetrain into the 40 or 45, disk brake 40 or 60 series axles, and the mentioned relocated AC system. Didn't know you HAD to use gold plated coilovers. Link/joint material isn't that expensive.
Lots of labor, but you stay with the correct narrow proportions of the vehicle.
Very interesting build either way, and look forward to the finished product and lots of pics.
I kinda like the radiator in the back idea. It might be kinda tough to bleed but not a bid deal. As far as heat and AC, if you are installing the condensor u could run a vintage air unit. With the condensor in the bed, you would have way more room with less restraints for a oversized condensor which would increase efficiency and bring temps down. Keep in mind too you have a smaller cab, so less to heat/cool.
- Thread starter
- #66
And what about pushing the axle forward by relocating the suspension and keep the drivetrain and radiator in stock location on the frame
If it was a simple leaf spring, it would be easy to do that. Like I mentioned, I did that on UZJ. To move this axle forward I'd have to build new coil buckets, sway bar mounts, panhard mount, steering gear box mount, brake lines, extend the drive shaft, and then I'd have an extra long wheel base. The 80 series is 112 inches, which I think is perfect. It's between a 40 and 45lwb.
I think it will be a lot easier to run two coolant lines to the bed of the truck and mount a radiator and electric fans
- Thread starter
- #67
I do appreciate all of the comments, but don't forget, this will be nothing like my last build. It will be done quicker, done easier, and solve some other issues as well. The more time, money, and thought I put into it, the nicer it will be. The nicer it is, the less I'll want to use it for what I'm intending.
It's hard seeing the rust in the rocker panel and not ordering new metal from real steel, but I have to keep telling myself this is a fun toy and I'll be upset if I replace it and crunch it up on my first run. Will I be upset if I crunch this rusted one? Nope, I'll probably laugh and bang it out with a hammer.
It's hard seeing the rust in the rocker panel and not ordering new metal from real steel, but I have to keep telling myself this is a fun toy and I'll be upset if I replace it and crunch it up on my first run. Will I be upset if I crunch this rusted one? Nope, I'll probably laugh and bang it out with a hammer.
I'm running into the same mental conflict with my 40. There is so much that I would like to do, but I need to focus on just getting it out on the trails and enjoying it.
Good luck, you'd think there would be something that fits perfect without all your challenges.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
So I took a look at the aqualu site in the section where they sell 45 bodies for 80 frame and drivetrain. They say to move the drive train back 10" exactly what you calculated. The list you made above doesn't sound bad at all to me. You could probably re-use the mounts you cut off, even if not it will be just as much work fabbing radiator mounts. Making a brake lines won't be any harder than running those coolant and and refrigerant hoses. Drive shafts are just dropping it off at a shop. Comparing the two options doesn't seem like you are taking the path of least resistance.
- Thread starter
- #71
In the middle of UZJ build, we moved twice, got married, and a few other things that took up a lot of time. I was hoping I could get this thing running before any major life events, but nope. We decided to sell our house. Thankfully, it was only on the market for 4 days, but it did take a lot of work getting it ready, and of course moving after it sold. Once again, I had to move an unfinished project, body panels, parts, and tools to a new house with a basic garage.
We did make a quick trip down to southern CA to pick up some new tool boxes for the house since my old ones were attache to the wall and included with the sale, so upon scanning the local craigslist ads, I decided to pick up an OEM rear locked 80 axle. I thought about going with an ARB again, but I plan on converting this to a cable actuated locker.
I've spent some time on the garage organizing my tools and upgrading the lighting, so I'm finally at a point I can continue working on the 45. First thing - throw the new head gasket on and put the engine back together!
This will be the 3rd head gasket on a 1FZ I've replaced. After the first one, I never wanted to do one again. When the second one came along, I had forgotten how much the first one sucked, so I did it again. After that one, I was REALLY not going to do it again. But, here we are. The only good thing about this one is there is completely open access to the engine, and I can climb around it while working on it.
Updates soon!
We did make a quick trip down to southern CA to pick up some new tool boxes for the house since my old ones were attache to the wall and included with the sale, so upon scanning the local craigslist ads, I decided to pick up an OEM rear locked 80 axle. I thought about going with an ARB again, but I plan on converting this to a cable actuated locker.
I've spent some time on the garage organizing my tools and upgrading the lighting, so I'm finally at a point I can continue working on the 45. First thing - throw the new head gasket on and put the engine back together!
This will be the 3rd head gasket on a 1FZ I've replaced. After the first one, I never wanted to do one again. When the second one came along, I had forgotten how much the first one sucked, so I did it again. After that one, I was REALLY not going to do it again. But, here we are. The only good thing about this one is there is completely open access to the engine, and I can climb around it while working on it.
Updates soon!
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Riley, I’m going to go ahead and request pics of the new garage. You always put together a clean, drool-worthy, man-cave workspace...especially with a FJ or two in it
- Thread starter
- #73
I do appreciate that, but this is a rental. We are going to buy again, but we won't be getting a place without a detached shop this time. We wanted to sell our house while the market was high and see what it does here in the next few months. Our lease is month to month so we are in position to buy when we're ready.
Luckily, Costco is having a sale (usually $30, now $20) on their 48" LED fixtures. They're 5000 lumens each, and you can daisy chain them together. I bought 10 of them, so it should do the trick!
I need to buy those as well!! I love Costco...
A detached garage is a dream of mine. Where I live (Panhandle of Florida), both lots and garages are small
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
A short drive NW on US 95 (all 4-lane divided highway - future Interstate 11 corridor) can get you a large fenced lot (0.71 acres), a newer (2005) manufactured home on a permanent foundation, and a more than adequate 28'X32' shop with abundant power and a bathroom
. Right across from the school and park. Think about it. Here's a photo with the rolling chassis from my '85 FJ60 parts vehicle on its way to CA and a new owner. FJ62 belongs to @erse, a nice looking rig.
Found this thread.
40-series on an 80-series chassis. Perfect. I love how you're keeping the stock 80-series geometry in place. Good call.
Subscribed. Looking forward to more.
40-series on an 80-series chassis. Perfect. I love how you're keeping the stock 80-series geometry in place. Good call.
Subscribed. Looking forward to more.
Yes. As much as I am happy with the Old Air Hurricane unit... air conditioning a giant un-insulated sheet metal box is a losing battle.
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- #80
I wish I had some secrets, but I don't. I tried everything to make it insulated and efficient, but there's only so much you can do. I think the only thing that can overcome extremely high metal temperatures and no insulation with poor weatherstripping is volume and temperature of air coming out. Comparing the size of a Hurricane unit to an OEM setup out of an 80 series, the difference is huge. I don't believe the aftermarket units are large and powerful enough to overcome the flaws of a 40.
