Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter UZJ40
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- Thread starter
- #102
Also got my shifter done today. I really wanted to keep the factory column shifter so it retained the look of 3 on the tree but the shifter actuates the lever on the auto transmission.
First, I cut down the factory shift rod. This is the before-
I used two tabs to center and position and shift rod. The shifter is spring loaded, and I really wanted to keep that feature. I wanted to make it shift out of PARK like a modern vehicle where you have to pull it toward to get it out of park, and once in the park position, it locks itself back into place.
I notched the inner tab in one location, just wide enough for a slice of 16g metal.
Welding the outer tab on-
Welding the inner tab to the outer tab, as well as the PARK position piece. This is what it looks like in gear-
This is back in PARK-
Everything mounted up and in the Park position-
Under dash shot of it in Park-
And the same in gear-
First, I cut down the factory shift rod. This is the before-
I used two tabs to center and position and shift rod. The shifter is spring loaded, and I really wanted to keep that feature. I wanted to make it shift out of PARK like a modern vehicle where you have to pull it toward to get it out of park, and once in the park position, it locks itself back into place.
I notched the inner tab in one location, just wide enough for a slice of 16g metal.
Welding the outer tab on-
Welding the inner tab to the outer tab, as well as the PARK position piece. This is what it looks like in gear-
This is back in PARK-
Everything mounted up and in the Park position-
Under dash shot of it in Park-
And the same in gear-
The ingenious fabbing is hurting my head... LOVE IT!
HIJACK ALERT ************************************************************
I felt the same way when I sideswiped a 2' boulder, while driving to Cabin Springs ( Backroads Around Las Vegas, Desert NWR, Cabin Spring Road - Note: much of this was much worse than it appears in Jim's pics... I came along shortly after a pretty legendary flood, in the north end of the Sheep Range )… I was bummed for about 1 minute, then I drove on.
After I made it back out of there, I marked it down as a trip I would never again make, without a another truck/driver along.
I was lucky to get out, relatively unscathed and 44 wears her badge of honor well... and her head held high.
Its been 3-4 years now and the touchup is looking better every time I notice it... I won't ever fix it.
I love what you are doing with this build, Riley!!
You make me wish I had immersed myself in "all things 40", when I was a much younger and a relatively pain-free man.
But, it is what it is... just be honest, Riley... did I look this damned good when you and @allan man taught me "grease on", "grease off", as a young gwasshopper?
My apologies, in advance, for spelling errors, etc.
Hey Shondell!!
You are very fortune to have taken that one specific flight to Boise(?) and met your very special lady.
She isn't afraid to jump right in... she isn't afraid to get dirty and she definitely cleans up nice!!
But, best of all... she does it all with a perpetual smile on her face!!
Keep those ideas flowing. mate... they are all great!!
HIJACK OVER ************************************************************
- Thread starter
- #106
Got quite a bit done over the past few days, and so far I'm happy with how it's turning out!
There was more rust behind the driver side rocker panel than I thought, which was making my B pillar pretty weak. I decided I didn't want to deal with it, so I cut the whole floor off from the cowl back -
The rust behind the rocker -
I was able to clean up the mating surface to the bottom of the cowl to make it flat and smooth. It should now be a good foundation for my square tubing floor frame -
There was more rust behind the driver side rocker panel than I thought, which was making my B pillar pretty weak. I decided I didn't want to deal with it, so I cut the whole floor off from the cowl back -
The rust behind the rocker -
I was able to clean up the mating surface to the bottom of the cowl to make it flat and smooth. It should now be a good foundation for my square tubing floor frame -
- Thread starter
- #107
I ordered some inner and outer rocker panels from Real Steel. They are extremely nice and will save me a ton of time. It was a little difficult making a new B pillar from scratch, but once I knew the correct overall height, I was able to make it happen -
- Thread starter
- #108
Now it was time to start framing the floor in. Once I had the outside rockers lined up, I could fill in the middle -
Measuring for the 16" stretch -
The hardest part about making the new cab is getting the dimensions correct and square. Usually, it's easier to build a frame first, then skin it. But the pieces I had to work with were the new rockers, the upper rear tub channels, and the Reel Steal lower corners. I had to figure out a way to place those pieces where they need to go, make sure they were all square, tack them in place, then build a supporting frame for them.
For the skin, I got a sheet of 16g hot rolled steel. I had them use their brake, and make a 5/8" 90 degree bend along the 8' side. This would give me a factory-like bend along the bottom of the extended cab sides and back. It matched perfectly with the Reel Steal rocker panels and rear quarter curves.
Putting some skin on -
In this picture, I'm trying to hold the rear curved quarter panel in place so I can measure how for down the back panel needs to drop to align with the rise in the curves-
Now that I had my rear panel dimensions, I could cut it out and hang it from the upper rear crossmember -
Here's a side view of roughly how it will look -
And I finished the night framing in the rear section -
I left about 3/4" of the vertical 1.5" square tubing visible on each side of the rear bend. This will be a much stronger area to attach the curved pieces to than just sheet metal -
Measuring for the 16" stretch -
The hardest part about making the new cab is getting the dimensions correct and square. Usually, it's easier to build a frame first, then skin it. But the pieces I had to work with were the new rockers, the upper rear tub channels, and the Reel Steal lower corners. I had to figure out a way to place those pieces where they need to go, make sure they were all square, tack them in place, then build a supporting frame for them.
For the skin, I got a sheet of 16g hot rolled steel. I had them use their brake, and make a 5/8" 90 degree bend along the 8' side. This would give me a factory-like bend along the bottom of the extended cab sides and back. It matched perfectly with the Reel Steal rocker panels and rear quarter curves.
Putting some skin on -
In this picture, I'm trying to hold the rear curved quarter panel in place so I can measure how for down the back panel needs to drop to align with the rise in the curves-
Now that I had my rear panel dimensions, I could cut it out and hang it from the upper rear crossmember -
Here's a side view of roughly how it will look -
And I finished the night framing in the rear section -
I left about 3/4" of the vertical 1.5" square tubing visible on each side of the rear bend. This will be a much stronger area to attach the curved pieces to than just sheet metal -
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #110
Thank you.
I have been contemplating that. Unfortunately, I cut the body apart at those seems, so that's also where I'll be welding it back together. If I want the appearance of the factory lines, I'll have to make them after with a grinder, but I don't want to compromise the welds or metal so at this point I'll probably do without.
I wonder what those side panels behind the front doors u welded in would look like it they had a inset like the factory rear lower gate doors from a fj40? U could even make them open too to slide a cooler in the back or just easier rear access.
Nice fab work it`s looking good 
JP
JP
- Thread starter
- #113
Lots done over the past week...
Finished framing the floor section, including the extended cab -
Put the B pillar soft top bow to make sure everything was still square -
Got my cowl, hood, windshield frame, doors, bib, and a few other things sand blasted. Overall, extremely happy with the parts and lack of rust/body filler -
Had a local shop bend me some corners to go above the Real Steel lowers I already had -
Finished framing the floor section, including the extended cab -
Put the B pillar soft top bow to make sure everything was still square -
Got my cowl, hood, windshield frame, doors, bib, and a few other things sand blasted. Overall, extremely happy with the parts and lack of rust/body filler -
Had a local shop bend me some corners to go above the Real Steel lowers I already had -
Those look great. What shop did you have them made at?Lots done over the past week...
Finished framing the floor section, including the extended cab -
Put the B pillar soft top bow to make sure everything was still square -
Got my cowl, hood, windshield frame, doors, bib, and a few other things sand blasted. Overall, extremely happy with the parts and lack of rust/body filler -
Had a local shop bend me some corners to go above the Real Steel lowers I already had -
- Thread starter
- #117
More progress this week...
Got the back of the tub blasted to get the last of the paint and mill scale off the new metal -
Got the last few holes on the firewall patched that I wouldn't be using -
Time to reattach the cowl to the tub. I didn't trust my garage floor so I used to 1x2 and 1x1 to keep everything level. I measured the door openings of a couple other 40's at 32". I cut some 1x1 and strapped it tight so the cowl wouldn't bend in toward the tub while welding. -
And together again!
Got the back of the tub blasted to get the last of the paint and mill scale off the new metal -
Got the last few holes on the firewall patched that I wouldn't be using -
Time to reattach the cowl to the tub. I didn't trust my garage floor so I used to 1x2 and 1x1 to keep everything level. I measured the door openings of a couple other 40's at 32". I cut some 1x1 and strapped it tight so the cowl wouldn't bend in toward the tub while welding. -
And together again!
- Thread starter
- #118
I've been putting a lot of thought into my AC and heater. I've seen some trunk mount universal systems that are AC only, so I'd have to do a stock heater on the dash. I didn't want to mess with wiring two fans to do two separate things, so I went to the local pick-a-part to see if there were any units that looked compact. I was really hoping to do a dual evaporator system for maximum cooling and airflow this time.
While walking through the junkyard, I saw quite a few different dash units, but there were all way too big and complicated for what I wanted. Then it occurred to me.... I needed a factory rear AC/heater unit! It would be a self contained unit that was small and only had one inlet and one outlet.
I went to the Toyota section and saw two 2006 Siennas sitting right next to each other. I peeled back the rear right plastic panel in each one and they both had a compact fan/evaporator/heater unit!!! I knew right when I saw them they were perfect. I pulled them out and happily paid $50 each unit. The aftermarket dual evaporator system I was looking at was $1500, so I felt really good about the purchase. I'm guessing these are much higher quality as well.
The donor vans -
Where I took the unit from (I meant to take a pic of the unit in there, but forgot) -
Plenty of room to mount both units side by side under the rear shelf. I plan on some other wiring, as well as mounting the battery back there as well -
These units are so compact I actually thing they have potential to be mounted to a 40 firewall
While walking through the junkyard, I saw quite a few different dash units, but there were all way too big and complicated for what I wanted. Then it occurred to me.... I needed a factory rear AC/heater unit! It would be a self contained unit that was small and only had one inlet and one outlet.
I went to the Toyota section and saw two 2006 Siennas sitting right next to each other. I peeled back the rear right plastic panel in each one and they both had a compact fan/evaporator/heater unit!!! I knew right when I saw them they were perfect. I pulled them out and happily paid $50 each unit. The aftermarket dual evaporator system I was looking at was $1500, so I felt really good about the purchase. I'm guessing these are much higher quality as well.
The donor vans -
Where I took the unit from (I meant to take a pic of the unit in there, but forgot) -
Plenty of room to mount both units side by side under the rear shelf. I plan on some other wiring, as well as mounting the battery back there as well -
These units are so compact I actually thing they have potential to be mounted to a 40 firewall
I wonder if I could replace my 55 rear heater with one of those 
...nice score!
...nice score!
I know you’re in Vegas, but isn’t 2 units overkill for a pickup cab?
