Anyone fitted modded cam shafts to get more pep from you 1fz (1 Viewer)

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so I would like a bit more pep out of my 4.5 1fz, in an ideal world I would throw $6,000 at a supercharger and be done with it, power from the get go it what I would like, but my budget for mods is about 1500 right now, don't want to go down the turbo route as I don't Need the upper rev range power, just looking for some cheaper responsiveness and low down power, or do I keep saving and hold on for a supercharger in another year or two
 
Does anyone make cams for the 1FZ?
 
I found a few, cam tech in Australia do more than one cam depending on what state of tune you have on your engine, our 1fz engine are capable of some serious HP apparently, their basic once claims good low end and strong mid range, but is would be interested in seeing a dyno to see if the increase is worth the cost.
 
I am sure a bunch of other parts will be needed to maximize potential with new cams...instake, headers, exhaust, tune , delete some emissions stuff maybe. Interested to know.
 
I found a few, cam tech in Australia do more than one cam depending on what state of tune you have on your engine, our 1fz engine are capable of some serious HP apparently, their basic once claims good low end and strong mid range, but is would be interested in seeing a dyno to see if the increase is worth the cost.


Some info please, this could be VERY interesting!
 
Just look to the Middle East. There are many shops that tune the 1FZ. It was also used in the 100 series over there. I once heard that the Supra 2JZ is based off the 1FZ. And the 2JZ makes "EUGH" power! Of course, that's a bit more than $1500.

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I had Schneider Cams in San Diego grind mine for the head waiting to get installed still, so can't yet comment on performance. I went for a slightly better grind for increased low and mid range. I know the conventional wisdom says that cams will only ruin low end and move the power north, but Toyota was quite conservative on the overlaps so more low end and midrange IS possible with a different grind.

Mine were re grinds of stock cams, but they can do new blanks as well. The guy I talked to says they sell lots of their new and re-grinds to a company in NZ, and the Middle East, specifically Dubai.

Be aware if you go down the road of a re grind, you will need to have a skilled person assemble the head and get clearances right. Expect to grind valve tips and use lash caps(7mm) which are hard to find with a shallow enough umbrella to ensure they don't disturb the valve keepers.
 
To clarify my previous post, the valve shim selection from Toyota won't be thick enough to make up for the regrind, which reduces base circle. Consequently lash caps which fit over the valve tip work well. A skilled assembler can grind the valve tip, to set clearances so you don't have to buy the shims AND lash caps.
 
To clarify my previous post, the valve shim selection from Toyota won't be thick enough to make up for the regrind, which reduces base circle. Consequently lash caps which fit over the valve tip work well. A skilled assembler can grind the valve tip, to set clearances so you don't have to buy the shims AND lash caps.


Definitely interested to what performance improvement your modded cam gives you
 
Andrew St. Pierre White did this to a 1FZ years ago in South Africa, along with some port work and an ECU/Chip tune. Sounds like he got 25 kw extra power...which isn't too bad.


That puts you right up into early 2UZ territory at 242 hp and 313 lbs-ft. (assuming the same percentage gain as HP)
 
Honestly I think you all are chasing dragons on this one. As we all know the 1FZ is a low reving motor designed for torque, which the stock cam is prime for. Regrinding or putting a hot cam only moves the power up the rev range... Even if you net 20 more torques the cost of doing so is exorbitant, plus the gains would only be worth it if you had a full exhaust, hi-flo headers and mechanically sound motor (minimal blow by and good valve seats).

IMO its not worth it, you are better off working on weight reduction.
 
Honestly I think you all are chasing dragons on this one. As we all know the 1FZ is a low reving motor designed for torque, which the stock cam is prime for. Regrinding or putting a hot cam only moves the power up the rev range... Even if you net 20 more torques the cost of doing so is exorbitant, plus the gains would only be worth it if you had a full exhaust, hi-flo headers and mechanically sound motor (minimal blow by and good valve seats).

IMO its not worth it, you are better off working on weight reduction.

I agree its cost prohibitive, but I think you can get a lot of great benefit from it combining the effort with port and polish, new valves, and a tune. The advantage would be that it would increase your efficiency as well, as opposed to the usual route of turbo/supercharger that would just crank up the power but drown out the mileage. I think a healthy 1fz-fe being built up with a head like the one in the video above would yield a very flexible and responsive engine...but expect it to cost you nearly as much as a turbo if done right.
 
Ouch
 
imo the only way to get more power out of the cruiser is with forced induction or a bigger engine. anything else is going to be a very small ROI.
 
Well I guess we will see a few different ways here shortly. I have the same valves as the video +2mm Intake +0mm Exhaust and my port work looks to be about the same as the video. My bowls definitely a bit shallower. When I ported my head I tried to get the same CC as stock but smoothed up. I tried to keep as much material as I could and then decked the head to try and pull the CC back to stock or as close as I could have and have them all match. One thing I noticed though. I matched them cc wise but the shape was so different from one to another that I should have taken more to get the shapes of the bowls to match. Honestly though I have not ported too many bowls on trucks period. My experience has been with making one or two piston vehicles breath. Two strokes are easy. I will find some pics. My cams are stock for now. I wanted to baseline before I got into aftermarket computer tweaking, then forced Induction.
 

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