You're right. The image of the finished adapter has the transfer case adapter reversed. I hope that's the image and not the finished part.
1FZ trans swaps 6R80 10R80 and more
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Damn, good catch. While I hope this is just an image issue, I see indications in the picture from the opposite side that it is not. Will confirm with Domiworks and let everyone know. I use the adage: We do it right, because we do it twice!
Will update when I confirm with Domiworks.
Thanks for taking the time to look that closely. Earlier someone posted that there were a lot of smart guys on this thread. I replied that Murphy rules the day. It appears that Mr. Murphy has come for a visit.
Mike
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The adapter really looks like has been machined inverted... At least is just the aluminium plate that bolts to the main body of the adapter.
I´ve stumbled upon Mr. Murphy´s law quite a few times on my project... The worst time being a typo error when I transfered the gearbox output shaft length into CAD, with the 3d model shaft being 55 mm long and the real dimension being 65 mm. Imagine my face when the adapter shaft arrived from the machine shop and it wasn´t close to bottoming on the shaft by more than a mile...
I´ve stumbled upon Mr. Murphy´s law quite a few times on my project... The worst time being a typo error when I transfered the gearbox output shaft length into CAD, with the 3d model shaft being 55 mm long and the real dimension being 65 mm. Imagine my face when the adapter shaft arrived from the machine shop and it wasn´t close to bottoming on the shaft by more than a mile...
Yup, it is confirmed, it was inverted. Root cause appears to have happened in the 3D CAD, after the picture of the 3D model was taken. Human error and confusion in the actual geometries. I should have asked for a final design review before the CAD files went out for build, but did not. We will be doing a final design review this time around. The good news is due to the 3 piece design of the tail housing adapter, it is just the rear plate that needs to be remade. That is a lot better than if it was a one piece block. The intermediate shaft has been delayed, so, we will see which one is the gating item for proto parts arriving at my doorstep.
Thanks again for taking the time to give the pictures a detailed look over. I feel like a bit of a fool for not doing that myself and catching that error. Always helps to have multiple eyes on a project. At work peer design reviews are required before any design is released to the shop, for just this reason.
Sorry to hear you had a similar experience with your intermediate shaft. Now I am worried about the same thing on mine..... Mr. Murphy always comes by for a visit, it seems.
Thanks,
Mike
Quick update on my project. Intermediate shaft is progressing. 8HP side female splines are cut in. They will cut the Toyota male splines next week, then out for heat treat. The new transfer case side adapter plate is being machined also, do not have a hard date on that yet. This is all through DomiWorks in Sweden.
On my side, I ordered a display holder for the TurboLamik display from ShapeWays. The part was nicer than the one I did. I will be putting the 3D printed parts on their marketplace so others can order them if they want the parts. Will be ordering the other three 3D printed parts for mounting the BMW shifter from Shapeways also.
Tomorrow I am going to pull my belly pan and install the stock crossmember. I will then modify the belly pan for the rearward movement of the transmission mount. That should be ready to go when the adapter parts arrive.
I have also been doing some wiring, tapping into the factory harness to get the RPM and TPS signals for the Lamik. The Bosch MAP sensor arrived and I will be hooking that up and running the wires back to the TurboLamik also.
After that, I am running out of little things to do to get ready for the swap.
Thanks,
Mike
On my side, I ordered a display holder for the TurboLamik display from ShapeWays. The part was nicer than the one I did. I will be putting the 3D printed parts on their marketplace so others can order them if they want the parts. Will be ordering the other three 3D printed parts for mounting the BMW shifter from Shapeways also.
Tomorrow I am going to pull my belly pan and install the stock crossmember. I will then modify the belly pan for the rearward movement of the transmission mount. That should be ready to go when the adapter parts arrive.
I have also been doing some wiring, tapping into the factory harness to get the RPM and TPS signals for the Lamik. The Bosch MAP sensor arrived and I will be hooking that up and running the wires back to the TurboLamik also.
After that, I am running out of little things to do to get ready for the swap.
Thanks,
Mike
Hello,
Intermediate shaft was delivered to DomiWorks this week. All parts shipped to me today. The correct rear plate for the transfer case adapter finished two weeks ago, so, the intermediate shaft ended up being the long link in the supply chain.
Picture of the transfer case adapter with the correct rear plate and the intermediate shaft. There will be the factory Toyota seal installed in the rear plate to seal on the transfer case input shaft. The factory design had a wet bearing in the tail housing. This design has a sealed bearing. The factory seal will need to be greased, but will put another layer of sealing before the bearing. The alignment pins are missing in this picture, just to note that, but will be installed in the parts I receive.
In other updates, I have modified the TurboLamik harness to have analog inputs for the RPM and TPS. I intalled a Bosch MAP sensor and ran the wires back for that. Ready to go on the harness side for the TurboLamik.
The Dodge 8HP75 in the 1500 pickups have a fluid temperature modulator on the side of it. It has a thermostat in it and has both ATF and coolant from the engine running through a heat exchanger. Mainly it is for warming the fluid up in cold weather. It is not a cooler, as some label it. The Dodge 2500 pickups with gas engines and the 8HP75 do not have this ATF temp modulator. It does not fit in the J80 transmission tunnel. I purchased an adapter for the transmission to get the fluid ports out to AN fittings and will initially run without it and then figure out if I need to remote mount it and put it back into service. My understanding is that on the 1500 they wanted smoother shifts, which required tight control of the ATF temp. For the 2500's that was less of a concern and they do not use it. Hopefully, I do not have to use. it. $165 plus shipping for the adapter. I will update the cost list on a previous page for this adapter. The adapter is required for this swap regardless of running the temperature modulator remote, or not. The stock configuration has two smooth counterbores in the transmission case for the fluid in and out of the transmission. Those engage fittings that protrude from the modulator that slip into the counterbore and have seals on them. There are no threads in the transmission case. The adapter uses a bolt location for the modulator and engages the counterbores in the same way, but converts the input and output to AN fittings. This applies to BMW 8HP75's also, but use a different adapter.
www.turbolamik.us
Intermediate shaft was delivered to DomiWorks this week. All parts shipped to me today. The correct rear plate for the transfer case adapter finished two weeks ago, so, the intermediate shaft ended up being the long link in the supply chain.
Picture of the transfer case adapter with the correct rear plate and the intermediate shaft. There will be the factory Toyota seal installed in the rear plate to seal on the transfer case input shaft. The factory design had a wet bearing in the tail housing. This design has a sealed bearing. The factory seal will need to be greased, but will put another layer of sealing before the bearing. The alignment pins are missing in this picture, just to note that, but will be installed in the parts I receive.
In other updates, I have modified the TurboLamik harness to have analog inputs for the RPM and TPS. I intalled a Bosch MAP sensor and ran the wires back for that. Ready to go on the harness side for the TurboLamik.
The Dodge 8HP75 in the 1500 pickups have a fluid temperature modulator on the side of it. It has a thermostat in it and has both ATF and coolant from the engine running through a heat exchanger. Mainly it is for warming the fluid up in cold weather. It is not a cooler, as some label it. The Dodge 2500 pickups with gas engines and the 8HP75 do not have this ATF temp modulator. It does not fit in the J80 transmission tunnel. I purchased an adapter for the transmission to get the fluid ports out to AN fittings and will initially run without it and then figure out if I need to remote mount it and put it back into service. My understanding is that on the 1500 they wanted smoother shifts, which required tight control of the ATF temp. For the 2500's that was less of a concern and they do not use it. Hopefully, I do not have to use. it. $165 plus shipping for the adapter. I will update the cost list on a previous page for this adapter. The adapter is required for this swap regardless of running the temperature modulator remote, or not. The stock configuration has two smooth counterbores in the transmission case for the fluid in and out of the transmission. Those engage fittings that protrude from the modulator that slip into the counterbore and have seals on them. There are no threads in the transmission case. The adapter uses a bolt location for the modulator and engages the counterbores in the same way, but converts the input and output to AN fittings. This applies to BMW 8HP75's also, but use a different adapter.
8HP OIL COOLER ADAPTER (DODGE RAM TRUCK VERSION)
TurboLamik TCU. TCU 2.0 by TurboLamik is an advanced transmission controller for the extremely popular and durable ZF 8HP transmissions. It allows you to control the ZF transmission in 8 modes varying from basic automatic to race sequential style.
www.turbolamik.us
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Parts arrived. They fit up nicely to the Dodge 8HP75. Will be doing a fit check on a block and a transfer case this weekend and then set a date for the install.
The lx450's had a different clock spring for the steering wheel allowing for the addition of telephone controls. You might see if that might work. I believe it was a separate 4 pin connector on the clock spring.
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Hello,
Intermediate shaft was delivered to DomiWorks this week. All parts shipped to me today. The correct rear plate for the transfer case adapter finished two weeks ago, so, the intermediate shaft ended up being the long link in the supply chain.
Picture of the transfer case adapter with the correct rear plate and the intermediate shaft. There will be the factory Toyota seal installed in the rear plate to seal on the transfer case input shaft. The factory design had a wet bearing in the tail housing. This design has a sealed bearing. The factory seal will need to be greased, but will put another layer of sealing before the bearing. The alignment pins are missing in this picture, just to note that, but will be installed in the parts I receive.
In other updates, I have modified the TurboLamik harness to have analog inputs for the RPM and TPS. I intalled a Bosch MAP sensor and ran the wires back for that. Ready to go on the harness side for the TurboLamik.
The Dodge 8HP75 in the 1500 pickups have a fluid temperature modulator on the side of it. It has a thermostat in it and has both ATF and coolant from the engine running through a heat exchanger. Mainly it is for warming the fluid up in cold weather. It is not a cooler, as some label it. The Dodge 2500 pickups with gas engines and the 8HP75 do not have this ATF temp modulator. It does not fit in the J80 transmission tunnel. I purchased an adapter for the transmission to get the fluid ports out to AN fittings and will initially run without it and then figure out if I need to remote mount it and put it back into service. My understanding is that on the 1500 they wanted smoother shifts, which required tight control of the ATF temp. For the 2500's that was less of a concern and they do not use it. Hopefully, I do not have to use. it. $165 plus shipping for the adapter. I will update the cost list on a previous page for this adapter. The adapter is required for this swap regardless of running the temperature modulator remote, or not. The stock configuration has two smooth counterbores in the transmission case for the fluid in and out of the transmission. Those engage fittings that protrude from the modulator that slip into the counterbore and have seals on them. There are no threads in the transmission case. The adapter uses a bolt location for the modulator and engages the counterbores in the same way, but converts the input and output to AN fittings. This applies to BMW 8HP75's also, but use a different adapter.
8HP OIL COOLER ADAPTER (DODGE RAM TRUCK VERSION)
TurboLamik TCU. TCU 2.0 by TurboLamik is an advanced transmission controller for the extremely popular and durable ZF 8HP transmissions. It allows you to control the ZF transmission in 8 modes varying from basic automatic to race sequential style.
Are you just going to do a short hose loop for now?
Thanks for that tip. That just might work for this. The TurboLamik needs two wires from the paddle shifters, up and down. Looking at some aftermarket paddle shifters, they just need power and ground. That could very well be the path to having paddle shifters with this transmission.
If I have room over the top, then I am going to run a short loop of hose from both the inlet and outlet over to the stock transmission cooler lines on the passenger side. I will see how the transmission shifts and if I think I need to remote mount the temperature modulator.
If I do not have room over the top (most likely I do), then I would need to route the cooler lines up the drivers side to the radiator, bypassing the stock cooler lines.
Those adapters look great!
The wiring for the analog paddles is quite simple, + - and Ground. I ended up designing my own fully adjustable paddle shifters:
You can save a substantial amount of money by designing and 3D printing your own parts, but there are also some nice paddle shifters for sim racing setups made from CNC milled aluminium:
I´m waiting (and very impatiently I must say hahaha) to see how your LC performs with 8 speed gearbox. Keep us updated!
The wiring for the analog paddles is quite simple, + - and Ground. I ended up designing my own fully adjustable paddle shifters:
You can save a substantial amount of money by designing and 3D printing your own parts, but there are also some nice paddle shifters for sim racing setups made from CNC milled aluminium:
I´m waiting (and very impatiently I must say hahaha) to see how your LC performs with 8 speed gearbox. Keep us updated!
Oooo, cool 3D models. Nice original work. I like to see that.
As far as saving money goes, this is not the project to do that... Cost per extra gear added is about $2k....
Thanks for the link. I am going to get an LX450 clock spring to avoid running wires through the center. That was a good tip from another enthusiast. The paddle shifters will be a follow on project, after I get the transmission dialed in first.
The swap will happen in two to three weeks. Almost everything is here and ready to go. I am going to mock up the TurboLamik this weekend on the bench to make sure it all talks without any errors.
I will post up some info shortly on harness mods for the TurboLamik harness and my final 3D prints for the shifter bezel/bracket design.
Thanks,
Mike
sbman
Supporting Vendor
The clock spring is the same part number for all 96-97 land cruiser and 96-97 LX450. 95 and earlier had a single sliding spring loaded contact for the horn, and no clock spring and I doubt it could be retrofitted short of replacing the entire steering column. Basically all of the cruisers with the new dash have the same clock spring, old dash and old wheel only has a horn contact.
Clock springs:
97-LC: PN 84306-28020
96-LX: PN 84306-28020
The wiring on my 97 includes wiring from the clock spring all the way down to the base of the steering column including the extra wire for the phone interface. It terminates in the steering wheel with a connector that has the phone control contact unpopulated, so all you have to do is add contacts at each end to get the extra wires for your own use. You'll want to find C15, which is a black connector on the lower end of the steering column. The EWD does not depict the clock spring or any of it's connectors, instead showing continuous connections from C15 to the various components that are mounted on the steering wheel (horn button, cruise controls, phone controls).
C15, pins 5(B-G) and 15(Y-R) are used for the resistor network for cruise control.
C15, pins 3(W), and 17(B) are used for the cellular telephone remote controls, and terminate at an undocumented connector in the steering wheel which the remote control plugs into.
I've verified continuity on my '97 LC from the steering wheel connector to the pins on C15 for the cellular telephone wires as I plan to use those wires for remote stereo controls. Unfortunately there are only two wires available, and no ground in the steering wheel so you'll have to run PWR, GND and Signal over the 2 wires to interface with your paddle shifters, if you plan to keep the cruise controls. If you want some assistance with the electrical part of that, feel free to reach out.
Thanks for the info, this was very detailed and clearly spelled out. I was wondering if they were actually the same clock spring, and you have just confirmed it.
Looking in the EWD the block labeled C15 for the Cruise Control Switch does show a ground connection for pin 20. Does that ground continue up through the clock spring to the switch? By the look of the switch diagram, it is the common (EP) on the other side from CMS (Pin 15, Main) and CCS (Pin 5, resistor network). If it does continue on through the clock spring to the cruise control switch, then we could tap into that for ground and use the two spare pins for shift up and shift down.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
Yes, the ground does go all the way to the cruise control stalk, but since it is a signal ground running to the cruise control as well, you may be somewhat limited on how much power and/or electrical noise you can put on that wire before it interferes with the cruise control remote, but it might not be very sensitive, just something to keep in mind.
Thanks. If that is an issue I can probably figure out a filter on the ground wire. I work with a bunch of RF and MW EE’s. They are all about filtering power and ground.
The swap is scheduled for April 20th. I need to have everything swapped over by Monday morning the 22nd so that I can have a tech from TurboLamik USA remote log into my laptop and do the initial setup on the TCU. After that, it will be in adaptation mode and I will drive it and let the TCU learn.
Getting ready for the swap, bolted the torque converter adapter to the torque converter:
Getting ready for the swap, bolted the torque converter adapter to the torque converter:
I finalized the designs and prints for the BMW shifter brackets and bezel. Using ASA plastic, which has high temperature tolerance and UV resistance. As I mentioned before, to put the BMW shifter in the stock location, the stock shifter plate assembly needs to be modified to remove all of the shift interlock brackets and the pivot shaft. I cut all of that off of a used shifter plate assembly that I purchased.
I then painted it, as, it was going to rust where I cut the welds on the pivot shaft and where I drilled out the spot welds for the brackets.
The transmission shift program selector is mounted in front of the shifter. It and the shifter have pigtails for their TCU harness connections so that I do not have to disassemble the shifter to disconnect if I ever need to pull the shifter assembly.
There are 4 3D printed parts in this assembly. There are two brackets that adapt the BMW shifter to the stock shifter bezel M5 hard points. There is a cosmetic bezel that goes on the top of the shifter and attaches to the two brackets. And, there is a wire clamp, that acts as a strain relief for the program selector pigtail.
I will be selling these parts, if anyone is interested.
I then painted it, as, it was going to rust where I cut the welds on the pivot shaft and where I drilled out the spot welds for the brackets.
The transmission shift program selector is mounted in front of the shifter. It and the shifter have pigtails for their TCU harness connections so that I do not have to disassemble the shifter to disconnect if I ever need to pull the shifter assembly.
There are 4 3D printed parts in this assembly. There are two brackets that adapt the BMW shifter to the stock shifter bezel M5 hard points. There is a cosmetic bezel that goes on the top of the shifter and attaches to the two brackets. And, there is a wire clamp, that acts as a strain relief for the program selector pigtail.
I will be selling these parts, if anyone is interested.
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