1FZ trans swaps 6R80 10R80 and more (8 Viewers)

[OutlawMike]

Thanks for the appreciation!

The Land Rover 8HP certainly made the job a lot easier. There are lots of holes, so in case a gerabox bolts lines up with an engine block bolt, there are many other gearbox holes that fit just perfect. In my case, I´ll have to drill a 25mm thru hole on the bellhousing flange to make room for the starter motor pinion:

View attachment 3548273


The Turbolamik wiring harness is ok for CAN use as you said, but for our case, it is better to make the wire harness in my opinion. It is not a lot of work to make a wire harness for a standalone 8HP70, there is an extensive pinout diagram on the Turbolamik website.

Has someone used the factory Toyota automatic shifter with the Turbolamik? Here in Spain it is illegal to swap the gearbox and I´d like to keep the look of the interior as stock as possible to avoid any trouble on the yearly inspection...

I was in error when I mentioned the bell housing bolt. It is actually a dowel pin location that lines up on top of the starter snout. That was the limiting factor for bell housing adapter thickness. We looked at moving that dowel pin, but there were not good easy options for that. So, that dowel pin is what set the thickness of the adapter. Having that starter gear exposed does present opportunity for debris to get stuck in the starter teeth and jamming it. You may want to come up with a cover that uses those two bolts to shield the starter interface from debris.

As far as using the stock shifter with the TurboLamik, it might be possible, but would require some type of translation module to CAN. EDIT: You do NOT get a signal output from the stock shifter for Park, Neutral, Reverse, Drive, Second and First. That is generated on the side of the stock transmission in the A/T Indicator Switch. You would first need to figure out how to get an electronic signal from the mechanical movement of the stock shifter. Maybe this can be done with the A/T Indicator switch removed from the side of the stock transmission, possibly using the stock linkage even. Once you have a signal indicating PNRD21 you then need to translate that to a CAN signal that the TurboLamik is expecting. See below pinout from TurboLamik for the BMW shifter. After that, how do you get manual shift mode to bump through gears? Could be done, but a bit of effort in there.

Lastly, there is indexing in the stock shifter assembly, but there are also detents in the stock transmission that give the shifter the "feel" of shifting between PRND21. I think that without the transmission detents on the other end of the pivot shaft the shifter would feel a bit loose and sloppy. Maybe you can figure out a way to tighten that up on the end of the pivot shaft.

 

[OutlawMike]

Would you two ZF adapter guys share your costs? People need to know. I am in for about 8000 as I couldnt get my suppliper/m

Would you two ZF adapter guys share your costs? People need to know. I am in for about 8000 as I couldnt get my suppliper/machinist to share r&d.

Sure, I will share here and try to keep it up to date as things come up.

2021 Dodge 1500 Hemi V8 Auto Transmission (8HP75), 9700 miles: $1600
Bell Housing adapter, Torque Converter adapter, Transfer Case adapter, and Intermediate Shaft: $2200 for one off prototypes, not sure on production pricing.
TurboLamik TCU: $1600
TurboLamik wiring harness: $475 for base harness (needs mods to add Analog Inputs, comes with terminals) (Can DIY the harness for less cost)
TurboLamik Display (optional): $80
TurboLamik Program Selector Dial (Optional): $39
TCU Jumper Printed Circuit Board (bypasses TCU in the valve body of 8HP75): $45 (Can pay to get this done, fee is $350 at TurboLamik USA.)
BMW shifter from 640i / 650i, 2012-19, P/N 9296910: $217 (many options here that will work, this is just the one I bought on eBay)
MAP Sensor and Plug Pigtail: $65
Tacoma Right Angle Speed Sensor and Driven Gear: $65 (See detailed post below on this.)
HPR 8HP Oil Cooler Adapter (Dodge Ram Truck Version): $165
3D printed parts (Shifter Adapter (3x parts) and display holder): $175 I printed them myself on my X1 Carbon, but will sell them directly down the road.
Transfer Case shifter plate: ??? (Lasered it at work)

From the above, I am into it $6725 not including my time and there are a few parts that I do not have pricing for.

Future costs: Fluid for the transmission (designer ATF from ZF), New plastic pan / filter assembly, crossmember modifications, driveline modifications

TurboLamik USA:

TurboLamik

TurboLamik TCU. TCU 2.0 by TurboLamik is an advanced transmission controller for the extremely popular and durable ZF 8HP transmissions. It allows you to control the ZF transmission in 8 modes varying from basic automatic to race sequential style.

www.turbolamik.us

 

[hazard]

Thanks so much. I don't feel quite so out of line now.
However; no matter how we do, this is a very expensive upgrade and only for those with a love of LC 80's, or deep pockets. If enough of us ordered it would be reasonable. I tried to get interest and commitment but no dice I don't really care as i am doing anyway, but would be nice.
Cheers

 

[OutlawMike]

Thanks so much. I don't feel quite so out of line now.
However; no matter how we do, this is a very expensive upgrade and only for those with a love of LC 80's, or deep pockets. If enough of us ordered it would be reasonable. I tried to get interest and commitment but no dice I don't really care as i am doing anyway, but would be nice.
Cheers

Yup, not cheap, for sure. I worked with DomiWorks so that others would have the option of buying the adapters with some amount of volume behind them. Not really any way to reduce costs further that I can see. As you said, I am doing it anyway, as it is a fun design project and I get to use some of my design skills to do it. I'm in the garage every night working on something....

 

[880 development]

I was in error when I mentioned the bell housing bolt. It is actually a dowel pin location that lines up on top of the starter snout. That was the limiting factor for bell housing adapter thickness. We looked at moving that dowel pin, but there were not good easy options for that. So, that dowel pin is what set the thickness of the adapter. Having that starter gear exposed does present opportunity for debris to get stuck in the starter teeth and jamming it. You may want to come up with a cover that uses those two bolts to shield the starter interface from debris.

The 25mm hole for the starter pinion also lines uo with a dowel pin, but the LR has 4 dowel bores in total, so there is no problem using 3/4 dowel bores. About the exposed pinion, I´ve planned on designing a kind of dust plate, but this is not a major issue.

I´ve just figured how to use the stock auto shifter for anyone interested. The Turbolamik programming software has the ability to select the different PRND modes using an analog voltage threshold:

To generate the analog voltage signal (0-5v), it is as simple as adding a TPS sensor or potentiometer to the shifter in some way. The main issue is the sloppiness and play produced by the 30+ years of shifting through the PRND modes. Maybe there is a simple way to reduce this sloppiness so that each position is fixed in order to achieve a more reliable TPS voltage output. I´ll take a deeper look into this solution in the next few days, but there is no doubt that the BMW shifter is the way to go and there is a high chance I end up using the BWM shifter...

 

[OutlawMike]

The 25mm hole for the starter pinion also lines uo with a dowel pin, but the LR has 4 dowel bores in total, so there is no problem using 3/4 dowel bores. About the exposed pinion, I´ve planned on designing a kind of dust plate, but this is not a major issue.

I´ve just figured how to use the stock auto shifter for anyone interested. The Turbolamik programming software has the ability to select the different PRND modes using an analog voltage threshold:

View attachment 3549089

To generate the analog voltage signal (0-5v), it is as simple as adding a TPS sensor or potentiometer to the shifter in some way. The main issue is the sloppiness and play produced by the 30+ years of shifting through the PRND modes. Maybe there is a simple way to reduce this sloppiness so that each position is fixed in order to achieve a more reliable TPS voltage output. I´ll take a deeper look into this solution in the next few days, but there is no doubt that the BMW shifter is the way to go and there is a high chance I end up using the BWM shifter...

That is a very good find. This looks positive for using the stock shifter to at least shift PNRD21. Keep us posted on this as you try the mod. Not sure if it will save a lot of money, but it has the potential for owners to not "modify" their shifter plate assembly to fit the BMW shifter in. For that to fit, you have to cut the pivot shaft and several brackets off the shifter plate, permanently modifying it.

Any thoughts on how to implement manual shifting? Maybe a rocker button assembly attached to the stock shift handle in a convenient location? There is the OD on/off button on there already.

Good work,

Mike

 

[OutlawMike]

Quick update on the speedo sensor in the transfer case. My plan worked to swap in a Tacoma right angle speed sensor. This gives plenty of clearance to the fuel tank when the transfer case moves back. This would also work for anyone wanting to swap in a Black Box gear reduction unit from Northwest Fab. Not sure if anyone has done that yet. I was considering that, but then went down this path of an 8 speed with 4.7 first gear, giving me 68% reduction.

Picture below of the stock mechanical to electronic adapted speed sensor and the Toyota Tacoma right angle speed sensor. The original has an adapter on it to get from a mechanical style speedo output to a digital speed sensor output. It has a vertical launch for the connector, which makes the overall assembly even taller. The Tacoma speed sensor is an integrated electronic speed sensor pickup and a right angle plug. You cannot swap the driven gears between the two, the stock J80 driven gear is much longer. You can modify the stock driven gear in a lathe and a mill if you wanted to save money, or, buy the correct gear for the Tacoma for $35.

The stock internal drive gear in my transfer case is a "12". I am not sure what that refers to for this type of spiral gear. I am also not sure if all J80's came with a "12" drive gear. My stock driven gear is a 32 tooth gear that is specified as a "32:12" and marked on the end with a 32 and a 12. Not every 32 tooth gear will work, as there are 32:10, 32:11, 32:12, etc. The stock spiral gear will accept driven gears with a 31, 32, or 33 tooth count and marked with a "12". Which one depends on your differential gear ratio. Mine came with 4:10 gears and uses a 32 tooth gear. With 37's and 4:88 gears I am just about the same as stock for the overall ratio and the speedo accuracy, so, I have kept the 32 tooth driven gear.

The Tacoma speed sensor is a very spendy purchase if you buy new from a dealer or parts website ($350+).
Toyota P/N is 83181-24070. I saw some direct from Japan listings on eBay for about $150. And, there are Chinese knock off versions for $30 on eBay also. I bought a Chinese knock off to see if this would actually fit, so I was not into it a lot of money. I will be pulling a used one from a wrecking yard so that I have a factory part long term. I did not see any used ones on eBay. Years and models are in the picture below from YotaShop.com.

Once you have the speedo sensor, you need the correct driven gear in the shorter style that works with this speed sensor:

33403-19575 31:12 ratio
33403-19595 32:12 ratio
33403-69325 33:12 ratio

I bought the 32:12 ratio on ToyotaPartsDeal.com for $36.

33403-19595 Genuine Toyota Gear Sub-Assembly, SPEEDOMETER Driven

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 33403-19595 (3340319595) Gear Sub-Assembly, SPEEDOMETER Driven for $35.91. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

This covers the parts you need to buy, I will do another post on the modifications and install of the new right angle speed sensor.

 

[OutlawMike]

Tacoma Right Angle Speed Sensor - Continued

The Tacoma speed sensor has a tab cast into the side with a hole for retention. The stock J80 speed sensor has a slot machined into the barrel of the mechanical output that accepts a small sheetmetal tab that clamps and clocks the sensor. The hole in the tab on the Tacoma speed sensor does line up with the tapped hole in the transfer case, but, it clocks the sensor with the connector pointed towards the driveline. This will not work.

I decided to use the sheetmetal tab from the original install with the new sensor. Rather than cut a slot in the new sensor, I used a 1/4" tall spacer to clamp the new sensor on top of the flange indicated with an arrow above. This allowed me to rotate the sensor about 180 degrees, pointing the connector towards the front. I also cut the flange off of the new sensor, but, you could leave it if you did not want to.

I did need to modify the stock clamp a little to put a radius on the end of it to clear the housing diameter on the new sensor:

With that modification I was able to rotate the sensor around and point the connector to the front. I converted the bolt to a stud, as that would make it easier to put the 1/4 spacer on the stud first, then the clamp, then a split washer, and then finally a nut. The stud is from the EGR on my rig. I converted those studs to bolts, as it is easier to remove the EGR with bolts when removing the intake manifold.

The spacer I got at my local hardware store. It was sold as a machine bushing, 5/16" thru hole, 1/4" thick. Amazon has some aluminum spacers that would work perfect for this. 5/16" ID, 5/8" OD, 1/4" thick:

Amazon Aluminum Spacers

And, there it is. Low profile, never going to hit the gas tank, and pretty clean.

I will update the costs in my previous post, to keep track of the costs as they get determined.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I have nothing to add to this thread but to say there are a bunch of smart dudes in this thread. Carry on...

 

[OutlawMike]

I have nothing to add to this thread but to say there are a bunch of smart dudes in this thread. Carry on...

Or, at least they think they are smart. Murphy always rules the day.....

 

[880 development]

That is a very good find. This looks positive for using the stock shifter to at least shift PNRD21. Keep us posted on this as you try the mod. Not sure if it will save a lot of money, but it has the potential for owners to not "modify" their shifter plate assembly to fit the BMW shifter in. For that to fit, you have to cut the pivot shaft and several brackets off the shifter plate, permanently modifying it.

Any thoughts on how to implement manual shifting? Maybe a rocker button assembly attached to the stock shift handle in a convenient location? There is the OD on/off button on there already.

Good work,

Mike

I´d rather not modify the shifter plate, it really looks like its a mess to do so...

The manual shifting is quite simple to implement actualy. The turbolamik TCU has a couple pins specifically built for paddle shifters, wich are just two momentary switches with a common sensor ground:

There are many possibilities when it comes to the physical placing of the switches. It could easily be a couple of paddle shifters behind the steering wheel, sequential style shifter (or a sim-racing sequential shifter), two momentary switches placed on the shifter knob, etc...

From what I´ve seen on the TunerPro for the Turbolamik TCU, the protocol for the manual shifting is the same as in any Audi, BMW or tiptronic style modern car. By default, the car takes off in auto mode, but as soon as any of the paddles is pressed, the TCU goes into fully manual mode for a determined amount of time if any paddle is not pressed again.

 

[OutlawMike]

I´d rather not modify the shifter plate, it really looks like its a mess to do so...

The manual shifting is quite simple to implement actualy. The turbolamik TCU has a couple pins specifically built for paddle shifters, wich are just two momentary switches with a common sensor ground:

View attachment 3550983

There are many possibilities when it comes to the physical placing of the switches. It could easily be a couple of paddle shifters behind the steering wheel, sequential style shifter (or a sim-racing sequential shifter), two momentary switches placed on the shifter knob, etc...

From what I´ve seen on the TunerPro for the Turbolamik TCU, the protocol for the manual shifting is the same as in any Audi, BMW or tiptronic style modern car. By default, the car takes off in auto mode, but as soon as any of the paddles is pressed, the TCU goes into fully manual mode for a determined amount of time if any paddle is not pressed again.

I had discounted having paddle shifters on the steering wheel, assuming they would need to be wired in and not supported by the steering column. What would be your path for putting paddle shifters on the steering wheel? Is there such a thing as bluetooth paddle shifters? Maybe I need to revisit that opinion.

Modifying the shifter plate for the BMW shifter does not take long.... Just drill out some spot welds to remove some brackets and use a Dremel to cut the pivot shaft off. I have the designs for the 3D printed parts to adapt the BMW shifter to the stock mounting locations for the stock shifter bezel. Pictures and a short video below, I have this path fully figured out and will sell the 3D printed parts through Shapeways or a similar online 3D printing marketplace, if others want them.

The biggest downside to the BMW shifter is that it is shorter than the stock shifter. The ergonomics are just a bit low for my taste, but I am 6'4" tall and nothing ever fits me. I move it with my fingers, not with the palm of my hand on the shifter.

Short video of BMW shifter use:

BMW Shifter Operation and Ergonomics

 

[880 development]

My idea is to install a sim racing paddle set directly on the steering wheel. I have an OMP style steering wheel and it is pretty easy to drill a couple of holes to install a paddle shifter set like the one below:

There are many options available for around 100-150 eur, but I might as well design and 3d print them myself, don´t know yet...

My HDJ80 didn´t come with an air-bag from factory, so there is no wiring or electronics apart fromt the horn wire. I plan to route the 3 wires for the paddles through the steering wheel hub, jutt like the horn wiring.

I had discounted having paddle shifters on the steering wheel, assuming they would need to be wired in and not supported by the steering column. What would be your path for putting paddle shifters on the steering wheel? Is there such a thing as bluetooth paddle shifters? Maybe I need to revisit that opinion.

There is an Australian company that sell LC200 steering wheel conversion kits for the 70 series LCs, but they do come with a fair amount of wiring involved, and a hefty price tag too... These steering wheels have paddle gears that send the up/down signals via wireless communication (don´t know the exact protocol). Here you can check this company

 

[OutlawMike]

Hello,

Does anyone have a good way to find Toyota OEM P/N's for hardware? I want to find the Toyota P/N for the dowel pin in the tail housing of the A343F that aligns the transfer case. It is pressed into the tail housing, so, not usually a separate part. It is 12 mm OD.

Edit: Found the P/N 90250-12146.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[hazard]

Amyama? If not probably has no separate PN. Just mic it and go to parts store.

 

[OutlawMike]

Adapters are shipping to me this week, minus the intermediate shaft. That is still held up at the shop and will be the gating item. Domiworks has the engine to transmission adapter listed on their site for sale, with some pretty pictures. Includes the torque converter adapter. $1332 is his list price. He does not have the transfer case adapter listed yet. Both are pending my install and fit checks.

The transfer case adapter is missing the dowel pins, just tracked down that P/N, in case anyone notices....

Toyota 1FZ-FE to Dodge 8HP 70 / 75 / 90 / 95 Hellcat Scat Pack Trackhawk Adapter Kit

Toyota 1FZ-FE to Dodge 8HP 70 / 75 / 90 / 95 Hellcat Scat Pack Trackhawk Adapter Kit Adapter kit to fit a Dodge 8HP 70 / 75 / 90 / 95 Hellcat Scat Pack Trackhawk gearbox to a Toyota 1FZ-FE Engine Adapter plate and converter adapter made out of high grade aluminum and natural and black anodized...

www.domi-works.com

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Those sure look pretty!

 

[OutlawMike]

Those sure look pretty!

Almost too pretty to stick under the rig and get dirty...

 

[hazard]

Sweeeet!

 

[880 development]

Those adapters look great!

I was looking closesly at the tcase adapter image an the HF2A side looks like it´s been flipped 180 degrees, as if it had been mirrored compared to the cad image:

View attachment 3544777

Maybe It´s me or the image has been inverted...