YotaMD Titanium Integrated Remote Key Fob Shell (3 Viewers)

[suprarx7nut]

I replied to your email, thanks for the super fast response. It's a 2005 LC. Key fob pic below.View attachment 1820467

Thanks. So my first thought is that the key blade is worn, requiring deeper insertion into the ignition barrel and the new case is a slightly different shape that hits the barrel "face".

Darn, that's really annoying. I'll send a longer reply once im at a PC later tonight. I think we've got a couple options. I may need to trim the design on that lower face a little bit to provide more clearance.

 

[OdorousRope]

Ok thanks, it was definitely hitting the barrel face.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Emailed you just now. I have the CAD in front of me and will be making a very small change to the geometry of the key mounting location to provide more space around that barrel face.

Sorry again about the fitment issue. Seems to be the result of a really rare amount of wear on either the key or ignition or both. I'll adjust the design to accommodate more clearance than the OEM key and avoid the issue altogether.

 

[spressomon]

Curious...will be installing mine in a day or three...

 

[suprarx7nut]

Curious...will be installing mine in a day or three...

If your key is pretty worn you can test it real quick by installing just the rear, lower screw into the key and trying it out.

It's an extremely rare problem though. Currently around 0.2% chance of running into it at all and only 0.1% chance of the key actually getting stuck.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I think Santa just ordered a couple fobs.

Take a look at the pic for the destination of my most recent order from Norway. Nearly 70 degrees north. Unless I ship something to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska that's probably the northernmost sale I'll likely ever have. Super cool. I was able to hand deliver a batch to Norway (through a crazy work travel coincidence) a while back, but I don't think I can hand deliver these!

I wonder if they run the winter postal routes on a snow mobile?

Honorable mention to @uHu for helping coordinate the first batched Norwegian order that seems to have kick-started a slow and steady demand out of my ancestral land! Far more fobs go to Norway and Australia than any other country outside the US.

 

[apdxyk]

Vikings dig quality. You should try Japanese..

 

[suprarx7nut]

I've had a few sales to Japan, but not many. Language barrier might be a hurdle there. Most everyone in Norway is fluent in English. Japan? Not so much.

And then there's typical American me, speaking only English and a tiny bit of German so I'm no help there.

 

[Davio6]

Hi YotaMD,
I got your key kit today, and it looks beautiful. I took apart my OEM master key, and found that the metal key shank is very firmly imbedded in one of the shell halves. It looks like I will need to destroy the shell to separate. I am reluctant to do that. What do you advise?
Thanks,
Dave

 

[suprarx7nut]

Hi YotaMD,
I got your key kit today, and it looks beautiful. I took apart my OEM master key, and found that the metal key shank is very firmly imbedded in one of the shell halves. It looks like I will need to destroy the shell to separate. I am reluctant to do that. What do you advise?
Thanks,
Dave

Dave, that key blade has to come out one way or another to use the YotaMD shell. I always recommend having a back up key so you're not tearing into your only key. If you don't have a backup key at the moment, I'd recommend buying a cheap pair of OEM-style cases off Amazon for <$10. Those are excellent donor keys because the blades work well and the plastic is generally pretty soft and easy to break open.

When I was at the HIH event in Silverton, CO this year I sold a bunch of fob shells and did the installs at my tent in front of customers. That's the first time I've torn apart so many working keys and it's a little intimidating, but totally worth it once you get the YotaMD shell installed and ready.

As long as you have a back up - rip that baby apart!

 

[Davio6]

OK. It does go against my grain to destroy stuff, but for an improvement I guess I will.
Thanks,
Dave

 

[suprarx7nut]

OK. It does go against my grain to destroy stuff, but for an improvement I guess I will.
Thanks,
Dave

Think of it like stripping paint off an old car for restoration. The old has to come off for the improved new to go on.

 

[Davio6]

Well, I tore my key shell apart, and installed the new titanium reinforced parts. It does have a very nice feel to it, and I am very happy. I would suggest that you include 3 black oxide nuts so a user will have a choice of all stainless or all black oxide fasteners. I like it so much, that I will probably order another in a bright color.
Thanks so much,
Dave

 

[suprarx7nut]

Well, I tore my key shell apart, and installed the new titanium reinforced parts. It does have a very nice feel to it, and I am very happy. I would suggest that you include 3 black oxide nuts so a user will have a choice of all stainless or all black oxide fasteners. I like it so much, that I will probably order another in a bright color.
Thanks so much,
Dave

I agree all black hardware would be slick. I spent some time looking for a vendor for black oxide M2 nuts, but was unable to find anything. It was all Stainless plain or zinc plated. I think I found a listing on AliExpress for black, but I prefer not to source anything from there if I can avoid it. It's all very cheaply made Chinese stuff. I currently only use American hardware suppliers and would like to keep that up.

If you find anyone selling black M2 DIN 934 nuts let me know, because I completely agree with you that it'd look great!

 

[sleepycruiser]

Are there YotaMD decals for the windows?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Are there YotaMD decals for the windows?

It's on my long list of to-do's to design up a small little window sticker!

 

[Davio6]

I agree all black hardware would be slick. I spent some time looking for a vendor for black oxide M2 nuts, but was unable to find anything. It was all Stainless plain or zinc plated. I think I found a listing on AliExpress for black, but I prefer not to source anything from there if I can avoid it. It's all very cheaply made Chinese stuff. I currently only use American hardware suppliers and would like to keep that up.

If you find anyone selling black M2 DIN 934 nuts let me know, because I completely agree with you that it'd look great!

Thanks. I may just take a tooth pick and drizzle a little black paint on the m2 nuts.
We'll see.
Dave

 

[TorchRedTulsan]

Got mine in the mail yesterday! @suprarx7nut My key was an I blade, but has 2 little pins that come out the sides of the blade. I don't remember seeing this style before. Do I need to remove these pins? Also, my blade doesn't have the notches next to the screw hole. Do I need to install the provided pens?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Got mine in the mail yesterday! @suprarx7nut My key was an I blade, but has 2 little pins that come out the sides of the blade. I don't remember seeing this style before. Do I need to remove these pins? Also, my blade doesn't have the notches next to the screw hole. Do I need to install the provided pens?

Can you post a picture on here if the blade? I'm curious about the pins you're talking about in the existing key.

Also check out the setup video on the website. There's one video for the I still specifically that might answer your question.

Thanks for the purchase!

 

[TorchRedTulsan]

Can you post a picture on here if the blade? I'm curious about the pins you're talking about in the existing key.

Also check out the setup video on the website. There's one video for the I still specifically that might answer your question.

Thanks for the purchase!

Took a pic before posting and forgot to attach it.

I did watch the videos but may have missed where it addresses the pins you provide in the kit for a blade with no notches

For what it's worth, I installed everything (minus the pins) last night and have been using it all day with no problems, so it may be a non-issue. Just wanted to run it by you