YotaMD Titanium Integrated Remote Key Fob Shell (2 Viewers)

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Love the key so far. Owned it for about 11 months now and I noticed the clear coat is coming off. Is anyone else having this issue? Is this typical wear?

7gPyAfq.jpg

oyIPGgP.jpg
 
Love the key so far. Owned it for about 11 months now and I noticed the clear coat is coming off. Is anyone else having this issue? Is this typical wear?

7gPyAfq.jpg

oyIPGgP.jpg

Pretty typical. if it bothers you, sand it off and spray it again
 
Love the key so far. Owned it for about 11 months now and I noticed the clear coat is coming off. Is anyone else having this issue? Is this typical wear?

7gPyAfq.jpg

oyIPGgP.jpg
I have same color as yours, but have not seen any similar discoloration... that said, mine doesn't get used all that much.

(ps. with no vested interested in this what so ever, I must say I've been a very happy customer with the solution)
 
Love the key so far. Owned it for about 11 months now and I noticed the clear coat is coming off. Is anyone else having this issue? Is this typical wear?

7gPyAfq.jpg

oyIPGgP.jpg

That chipping seems to vary a lot person to person. Some folks see wear quickly while others barely have a single chip after a year. I think it has a lot to do with what else is on your keychain or in your pocket along with your keys. My testers do pretty well, but my keychain has a "Keysmart" on it so I don't have any dangling keys at all.

This chipping issue is my main area of focus for improvement right now. I'm testing Cerakote options as we speak. It's a ceramic thin film coating that can be applied like a paint. It's generally very durable, but I'll have to test it out to know exactly how it fairs on a key chain.

If you (or anyone else) has a cleared fob and is tired of the chipping, I'd be happy to work out a heavy discount on a new set of basic (Black or Grey) plastics which don't have the clear coat and will wear very, very well. You could also just sand off the remaining clear and have a nice clean "basic" finish with just a few minutes of work with some medium grit sandpaper (220-400 I bet would do the trick).
 
Edit: I PMd YotaMD and got a prompt response and a reply in this thread as shown below my comment here.

Got my Yota MD key swap done.
I'm not extremely impressed with the fit of the key. I have the "I" shaped key . When watching the video the pins fit very well inside the reinforcement plate. So much so that the plate was able to be turned on it's side and the pins stayed in.
Additionally, the key fit nice and snug inside of said pins once it was placed.

I experienced an extremely loose fitting plate. Not sure if the design was changed or if this one is just out of spec. The pins would barely stay in and fell out constantly while trying to get it set. They seem to serve 0 purpose of holding the key in place.
I got everything put together and it is holding. In a twisting motion the key stays put, but from side to side the key easily moves back and forth.

I'm going to contact YotaMD about it to see what is going on. I'll update this post once I hear back from them and let you know what's going on.

As a fenerag review, I purchased the plain Jane version and can tell right away that this is a solid product. Very strong. Well thought out. I'm not sure I'd spend the money on it again....depending on how they handle this wobbling key .
 
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PM received, reply incoming. This is my bad for making a change a while back and not updating my instructional video.

Short answer for anyone else with a similar issue: The video is misleading and I need to shoot an updated video. The video was very early on and the small plate has been improved to fit more keys. The pins are now slip fit and are intended to slip through the holes. Installation is a little different; You should install the small plate into the front plastic, then install the pins in place, then the remote, then key. Watch out for an updated video soon!

In the meantime, reach out to me with any issues either on here or via email at admin@yotamd.com.

Thanks!

-Andy
 
Some big updates are in the works. I'm rolling into a new revision of titanium parts with minor updates to improve compatibility and consistency in machining. And....

CERAKOTE Testing Begins Tonight! I've teamed up with a local shop to test Cerakote. For those unfamiliar, Cerakote is a very, very durable coating used most commonly in firearms. It's not paint, but rather a ceramic coating that is sprayed and baked. It's very thin and very, very strong when properly applied and cured. My test piece is a muted blue, but I'll have a very wide variety available once the coating launches. If you've been shopping for orange or red and have noticed them disappearing from the website, they'll be back up with the new and improved Cerakote offering soon. For now, all colors on the site are still dyed and cleared. I'll update the site once anything is available with Cerakote.

Happy new years to the 'mud crowd! Stay safe out there.

Cerakote Test 1.JPG
 
Some big updates are in the works. I'm rolling into a new revision of titanium parts with minor updates to improve compatibility and consistency in machining. And....

CERAKOTE Testing Begins Tonight! I've teamed up with a local shop to test Cerakote. For those unfamiliar, Cerakote is a very, very durable coating used most commonly in firearms. It's not paint, but rather a ceramic coating that is sprayed and baked. It's very thin and very, very strong when properly applied and cured. My test piece is a muted blue, but I'll have a very wide variety available once the coating launches. If you've been shopping for orange or red and have noticed them disappearing from the website, they'll be back up with the new and improved Cerakote offering soon. For now, all colors on the site are still dyed and cleared. I'll update the site once anything is available with Cerakote.

Happy new years to the 'mud crowd! Stay safe out there.

View attachment 1864911

Interested to buy a first run fob to test it out for everyone....after you get one done. ;)
 
Interested to buy a first run fob to test it out for everyone....after you get one done. ;)

I was so pleased with the initial testing this weekend that I'm just jumping into it. The Cerakote still scratches if you drag it on concrete with some force, but it's much better than the clearcoat I've used up to now. I think it's as good as I can practically get.

Anyway you could do custom colors to match paint colors of the cars? I would love a Cypress pearl coating to match the LX :)

I would LOVE to do this, but my hangup is the protection of it. So far, I've had inconsistent results with clearcoats and without a clear I know that paint will chip off. I *may* have a solution with Cerakote, as noted above though. Cerakote is normally opaque, but they do make a few clears that are supposedly very strong. I'll try to test that out in the future.

As of now, you can always buy a white, unpainted, undyed shell and paint on your own. I'd love to offer color matching paints and still plan to explore it, but just haven't been able to float that to the top of my to-do list.
 
:)Cerakote the titanium parts and hell, the key too!
At least for testing purposes...why not?
 
:)Cerakote the titanium parts and hell, the key too!
At least for testing purposes...why not?

As stupid as this sounds, it just hit me THIS AFTERNOON that I could Cerakote the Ti parts have some really cool (and durable) color combos. I think I will have some Ti parts coated black or a bright color at some point and offer those up for a small premium. It could look really sharp! I'm picture a white Cerakote on the plastics, and black on the Ti and hardware. That'd be pretty slick, I think.
 
As stupid as this sounds, it just hit me THIS AFTERNOON that I could Cerakote the Ti parts have some really cool (and durable) color combos. I think I will have some Ti parts coated black or a bright color at some point and offer those up for a small premium. It could look really sharp! I'm picture a white Cerakote on the plastics, and black on the Ti and hardware. That'd be pretty slick, I think.
I'd be in for a red Cerakote Ti part to contrast nicely with my black casing. I think that'd look pretty cool too!
 
As stupid as this sounds, it just hit me THIS AFTERNOON that I could Cerakote the Ti parts have some really cool (and durable) color combos. I think I will have some Ti parts coated black or a bright color at some point and offer those up for a small premium. It could look really sharp! I'm picture a white Cerakote on the plastics, and black on the Ti and hardware. That'd be pretty slick, I think.
BETA TESTING TIME, BABY!
 
I’m in. Where do I sign up?!!

Do you know when these will be offered? Got the green light from wife to order. :)

I'll see if I can sneak in a few Ti parts with my initial Cerakote batch of red coming up next week. After that I'll need to game plan how exactly I want to roll out any potential Cerakoted Ti parts as an option on the site. I want to make sure it doesn't look too complicated when folks choose their colors. I also need to work out pricing. The logistics of shipping out Ti and holding higher inventory on everything need to be worked out.

While I love the idea of stocking a bunch of different colors, it's about as "un-lean" as can be. There's also a significant order minimum for the Cerakote process so I have to commit to a large quantity of each batch.

Give me a few weeks to work it all out.
 
***** Review. Five Star Review.

Got mine a few months ago and feel it is well worth the investment. The key is in your hand a lot and is one of the physical interfaces with the truck so it should feel solid. This key feels great.

I bought a few of the cheap ebay cases for the key blank and had one cut to a VIN cut master I keep as a backup. No point in installing an old worn key into this brand new case (same for the battery). Yota MD should consider options to ship a new blank and a battery with the case. (upsale is the key to profits)
 
Got my Yota MD key swap done.
I'm not extremely impressed with the fit of the key. I have the "I" shaped key . When watching the video the pins fit very well inside the reinforcement plate. So much so that the plate was able to be turned on it's side and the pins stayed in.
Additionally, the key fit nice and snug inside of said pins once it was placed.

I experienced an extremely loose fitting plate. Not sure if the design was changed or if this one is just out of spec. The pins would barely stay in and fell out constantly while trying to get it set. They seem to serve 0 purpose of holding the key in place.
I got everything put together and it is holding. In a twisting motion the key stays put, but from side to side the key easily moves back and forth.

I had the same concerns upon assembly. My key does move side to side a small amount as the pins no longer hold it in place. The only part preventing the key from being pulled out of the plastic portion is the small screw. There are really no pulling or pushing forces on the key so it shouldn't be an issue.

I really don't have much of a concern at this point after using it for a couple of weeks.
 
Another option is to wait for my updated revision on this product. It's got a new feature specifically for this troublesome and rate "u" style.

View attachment 1839213

Keep us posted on this please! My wife's key is the U style, she does not like when it gets wiggly..
 

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