Builds Yeti my 80 series 2fe build

[RockDoc]

There is an "adapter" plate for the A440F that bolts to the back of the block, then the auto can bolt to that. Is this the piece you are referring to? I'm assuming you are running the auto? In my 62 I have the stock auto bolted up with that, in my 55, I have an early "3 speed" bellhousing bolted to direct to the block with a SM420 behind it.

Sorry, I don't really understand the problem... maybe a picture would help.

 

[landcruiser80]

There is an "adapter" plate for the A440F that bolts to the back of the block, then the auto can bolt to that. Is this the piece you are referring to? I'm assuming you are running the auto? In my 62 I have the stock auto bolted up with that, in my 55, I have an early "3 speed" bellhousing bolted to direct to the block with a SM420 behind it.

Sorry, I don't really understand the problem... maybe a picture would help.

I ran out to the shop and grabbed these pictures.
This picture shows how a bracket from the transmission is bolted to the side of the 3fe block, just above the oil pan. The yellow shows where the bracket bolts to the block.

But in this picture of the 2f block, there are no holes that the bracket can be bolted to.

So my question is, how did you mount the tranny to the block if there are no holes that the bracket can be bolted onto?
Maybe the 62' series transmissions are different in the way that they mounted to the 3fe? Does this make any sense?

 

[RockDoc]

I think it's the exhaust bracket held on with 2 bolts you are referring to.... that bolts to 2 holes in the "adapter" plate.

 

[RockDoc]

Or if it's that curved, heavier bracket you are referring to, I don't think that's of significance in mounting the tranny. Not sure if that was on the 62 setup originally. It isn't there on my truck now....

 

[landcruiser80]

Or if it's that curved, heavier bracket you are referring to, I don't think that's of significance in mounting the tranny. Not sure if that was on the 62 setup originally. It isn't there on my truck now....

I edited my post with the pictures. Yes I was referring to the curved bracket. I circled the one bolt (of two) that you can see in the picture where the bracket is bolted to the block. Hmm, makes sense that it might not be required in the mounting of the transmission. I did have that thought before. I guess I will be able to tell better when I have the 3fe out.

 

[RockDoc]

Did a quick check of 2 2Fs and 2 62 era 3FEs, none have that threaded hole. The one 3FE I have that still has the adapter plate attached doesn't seem to have an equivalent bracket, so I think it must be an 80 thing.

 

[landcruiser80]

Interesting, I will ask motorsargeT what he did when mounting his 2fe to his fj80 A440F.

-Edit- I also found this picture in the fsm that shows the brackets I am referring to. They are labled as "Stiffener Plates".

 

[landcruiser80]

After trying in vain for a day to remove all of the bellhousing bolts I decided to go ahead and remove just the head. I spent another day tearing the head and the block the rest of the way apart. My camera batteries died and I didn't take the time to recharge them so I only have a few pictures. I just dropped the pieces off at the machine shop. He is a lot busier than when I was there last week, so it might take longer than expected.

In the meantime I will get the 3fe block out of the engine bay and remove any parts I will need, drop the transmission/transfercase, go to town cleaning the parts/engine bay/transmission/shop, and paint some components. I should also get the body lift ordered sooner than later, that dollar is slowly creeping up, every penny counts!

 

[White Stripe]

How much did delta quote you for grinding a cam?

 

[landcruiser80]

How much did delta quote you for grinding a cam?

$103 to grind the cam and lifters (262), then there would be shipping and tax on top of that.
Once I factor in our lousy exchange rate is was cheaper for me to get my local shop to grind it.

 

[landcruiser80]

Interesting, I will ask motorsargeT what he did when mounting his 2fe to his fj80 A440F.

-Edit- I also found this picture in the fsm that shows the brackets I am referring to. They are labled as "Stiffener Plates".
View attachment 1201195

Got a reply back from motorsargeT. This is what he said,
"I cut the ear off of the mount that bolts to the block. I just used the threaded part that the engine to transmission bolts thread into."
So he used the "Stiffener plates", but he just didn't bolt them to the block.

 

[landcruiser80]

I haven't done much on the cruiser this week. I have spent my time researching stuff, getting parts ordered, and directing the machine shop on what to do. I am trying to spread the money around, it is a good balance of buying parts from Beno, the local Toyota dealer, and the machine shop.

Here are the few pictures I took after removing the head and disassembling the block before the camera quit.





It looks like sometime in the life of my 3FE someone had heard about the oil galley problem and tried to fix it.
I would have rather it not been like this so I have a nice, clean, hole to tap and plug...

Head removed

Those bellhousing bolts will be a bit easier to get too now

This is how I removed those stubborn screws on the timing plate. I found a socket that a cold chisel slid into nicely, and using an impact gun I was able to get them out of there. Wow, they must have been torqued really tight because the corded impact gun was having trouble breaking them loose. I will be replacing them with the updated Torx screws (PN 90149-10001).

And....the reason I am doing this.

The crack was really long and hard to see. The area around the crack was cleaned and an attempt was made to weld the crack up. JB weld was then smeared all over that. Even with that it was still cracked in places we couldn't see and would weep a little coolant. Now it is getting the attention that a cruiser deserves. I was pretty mad at the previous owner, some people shouldn't be allowed to own Land Cruisers.

 

[landcruiser80]

How do these bearings look?

 

[White Stripe]

They look good!

 

[landcruiser80]

That's what the machinist said. The bores of the cylinders look good and standard bearings/rings can be used.

 

[landcruiser80]

I am going to disassemble and clean the rocker assembly tomorrow. Any tips?
Also, when I put it back together should I use an assembly lube, or just coat it in engine oil?

 

[landcruiser80]

Ok, small update time.
Those rocker arms were really hard to clean. There was a thick layer of coked on oil/carbon stuff on them. The parts washer solvent wasn't cutting it so I bought some oven cleaner at $2 a can. I ended up using 1.5 cans of the oven cleaner on the rocker arms. It was a process of spray, let soak, scrub, and then rinse and repeat. The shaft only took one go, the towers took about three, but the rocker arms themselves took about 8 cycles. I should have just had the machine shop hot tank them, oh well. They are clean enough to eat with now.

The 2f rocker assembly is on top as reference.

And here are the clean rocker arms. Much better.

I also picked up my camshaft and lifters. I am very happy with them, the were completed quickly and at a very fair price. It would have cost a lot more to have them ground by Delta. They were done by Interior Cam Supply LTD., the owner, Jim, is a very knowledgeable fellow. They are one of the largest aircraft cam grinders in North America and are a very reputable shop. This is a good option for us Canadians.

Here are the specs of the Cam, when compared to the Delta KC589 *262 cam they are very similar.
Duration @ 0.050: Interior Cam, 214 -Delta, 217
Cam rise: Interior Cam, .282 -Delta, .284
Lobe Separation: Interior Cam, 108* -Delta 108*

For reference, the Delta 250 S grind specs are:
Duration @ 0.050: 215
Cam rise: .255
Lobe Separation: 108*

I also bit the bullet and ordered a new cam gear after being convinced on here that mine was no good. Oh well, better to do it right the first time than have to do it again.

 

[landcruiser80]

Got a call that my block and head were ready to be picked up. The original valves were in good condition so they were just reground. About 0.012 was taken off of the head.

I had them install the cam bearings for me but the holes are only lined up about 50%??? He said it was intentional, is this OK or should I have them installed so the holes line up 100%?

When I dropped the engine off I asked them to balance it. He replied with, "If you are using the same pistons and rods they should be balanced from the factory." Well I told him that I had a hunch that they weren't balanced properly at the factory and that I would like him to check. He said that he would, but that they will be fine.

Well, when I picked them up I asked if they were good. He kinda chuckled and showed me the rods. He had to take material off of four of them, but he added weight to two by including washers for the rod bolts. I am glad that I was right, but I question the whole washer thing? He explained that he would have had to remove too much material from the other rods. Here is a picture, I know @RockDoc that you did your own balancing. With your experience would you say this is acceptable?

I also am thinking about upgrading to ARP rod bolts.

 

[RockDoc]

Is it acceptable? I'm no expert.

If it were mine, I don't think I would run it with the washer. What's you feeling on the washer clearing the oil pan? I think I would just accept that little bit of imbalance and leave the washer off.

I don't think there was ever a direct use ARP bolt identified for the 2F, iirc, where I have seen them used in a thread, it required some grinding down of the bolt head.

 

[landcruiser80]

Is it acceptable? I'm no expert.

If it were mine, I don't think I would run it with the washer. What's you feeling on the washer clearing the oil pan? I think I would just accept that little bit of imbalance and leave the washer off.

I don't think there was ever a direct use ARP bolt identified for the 2F, iirc, where I have seen them used in a thread, it required some grinding down of the bolt head.

Oil pan clearance was one issue I need to look at, I am thinking the washers will interfere as I know you and others have had to grind the 3fe oil pan a bit to clear some of the rod bolts. Speaking of which, how did you figure out where to grind? With the oil pan against the block the only way to see down there is through the cylinders. Did you bolt the pan up with no gasket, and then rotate the crank to scratch where to grind?