Builds Yeti my 80 series 2fe build

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Ok, so I have got far enough into this project that I now feel fully committed and I figure it is time to start a build thread. I hope you guys enjoy this as much as I will.

To start off here is a picture of my white 1992 fj80,
Snowy Fj80.JPG


Fairly stock in that picture except for the running boards and roof rack are gone.

A little bit of a back story. I bought the cruiser three years ago with the intent on just doing some PM and driving it. Well, a few months after I bought it, whatever the previous owner had used to cover up the crack in the block gave way which led to my discovery of said crack. Boy was I upset. I was able to go for two years in that condition, constantly adding coolant, while saving up $$$ for the needed engine work.

Ever since I discovered the crack I have been researching different engine options. I carefully considered a Toyota V8, Chevy V8, and some diesel options. But all of those required more fab skills than I possessed, and they cost more than I was willing to spend. I finally realized that I would have to stay with a 3fe engine. The problem was that any of the 3fe's I found for sale had high mileage, and while they would probably last a good while still, I wouldn't have peace of mind while driving my cruiser in wilderness area's. I then thought I would just rebuild my 3fe with another 3fe block. And that is when I learned about a 2fe.

Instantly I loved the idea. You combine the best parts of two good Toyota engines, and you get an engine that will perform better than either stock engine. Now, don't get me wrong. While there is an improvement, it isn't that drastic. In fact, I am not looking to get better fuel economy or power than a 3fe with this swap. While I predict that I will have more power and better economy, it is not the reason I am doing this. I am doing this because it will be fun, a good learning experience, and I will end up with a reliable vehicle that I can always count on. With that said, I am super curious to see how this will turn out.

Here are links of some engine rebuilding threads that I like. I will be adding more as I come across them.
Big Gay 2F Build Tech
Help me plan for a 2FE
Dyno results : 2F-E vs 2F carbed
Is a rebuilt 2f as good as "new"? An old, entertaining thread. On post #48, Jim C lists some of the parts he uses in his rebuilds.
in too deep and gettin' deeper build thread
2FE Build Opinions Needed
130 amp alternator??
3fe - Tundra Alternator Mod
York Onboard Air Compressor
3FE oil pan gasket install tricks
Engine Rebuild Questions
Con rod Bolts upgrade on 2F
H42 four speed manual transmission into 1992 FJ80
 
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After learning about 2fe's, I searched to see if anyone had swapped one into an fj80. There is a really good thread detailing some of the fitment issues here, 2FE into an FJ80 – discussion. And, thanks to RockDoc, pretty much every other 2fe link you could want is in that thread and his 2fe build thread linked above.
So it has been done, yes. But it still isn't documented that well.
Because the 2f block is 2.125" taller than the 3fe block, a body lift is needed to fit the engine. I think a 1" lift will work and I know a 2" lift will work, so I am going to do a 1.5" 1" body lift. Due to some issues with the oil pan clearing the tie rods, the fj80 oil pan needs to be used.
 
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The block I have acquired is from a 1982 Toyota 2f that I purchased in the US from @scotthowell .
I plan on using the head from my 3fe unless it is also cracked. I will probably have ss sbc valves installed.
I plan on sending the cam and lifters to Delta Camshaft in Tacoma WA to be reground.

Today I stopped in at the machine shop I am going to use and talked about the work I want done. I will take the block and head in shortly and he will hot tank and inspect them for $100 and let me know what needs to be done.

I want to have some balancing work done, but the machinist doesn't think it will need to be done if I am using the same rods and pistons. He say's most engines are balanced pretty good at the factory. We will see.

I also was explaining that if valve work needed to be done I wanted to do the oversize chevy valve conversion that Jim C. recommends. Talked about here, (a link I have yet to find). The machinist said, "I can do anything you want, but people say crazy things on the internet. You might just be wasting money." Again, I have read enough on here about the chevy valves that I am sure that is a worth while upgrade.

I should also mention that this is my first time doing anything like this. And while I don't know much now. I am ready and willing to learn.
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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When I built mine (83 block), the pistons had good balance, but the rods needed work. I wouldn’t let the machinist discount balancing without checking.
 
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When I built mine (83 block), the pistons had good balance, but the rods needed work. I wouldn’t let the machinist discount balancing without checking.
My thoughts exactly. This is a very competent machine shop and the guy there is very knowledgeable. I also don't think using 1.5 exhaust and 1.84 intake Chevy valves is going to cost to much.
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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If you search posts with some combination of "Chevy, valve and stainless" by FJ40Jim you'll find some info on the topic. Unfortunately it's one of those topics that has been mentioned a lot so there are quite a few posts to dig through to find the meaty ones. Machine shop should be able to figure it out after doing some measurements


Post 45 in this thread thread some details:
improving flow for the 3FE’s top end
 
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1 - Subscribed - looking forward to your updates and impressions whenever this thing is running!

2 - My oldest needed to play with the smilies a bit so thank you for indulging us:

:deadhorse::flush::crybaby::zilla::santa:merry christmas!:worms::bounce2::bounce::cool::ban::moon::rimshot::flipoff2::cookie::crybaby::clap::cheers::censor::eek::deadhorse:
 
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Have the machine shop balance everything, F motors are not balanced well, especially 2f. I would also port and polish the head, at least smooth the runners out. Also look into getting a cam from delta ground.
 
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For the life of me I can't get the distributor off of the 2f. I unbolted the bolt that holds it down, and there doesn't appear to be any clamps. Are there any other bolts holding it down or is it just seized?
 

Godwin

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There is only the one bolt holding it down. Around the body of the distributor is an 0-ring that's likely sticking to the distributor cavity of the block. Try rotating the distributor back and forth and gently prying upward. It'll come out.
 
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Still fighting with the distributor. All I have managed to accomplish is this, oops.
Dec 26th 2f teardown 001.JPG
Usually I try to keep parts I am not going to use in good condition in case someone else wants them, but...
Dec 26th 2f teardown 002.JPG
 
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down in a hole.
 
 
if the oil pump mounting block was ever disturbed, it may be binding the dizz...I had to pound one out from underneath once...ugly...so make sure that block is aligned and never move it again...you can align it once you get the old dizz out by loosening the bolts a bit and installing the dizz, tighten a bit at a time making sure the dizz still moves- that may not be the case here, but be aware that those 2 bolts below the dizz above the pan rail hold a block to the block which receives the oil pump which receives the dizz shaft...it should never be moved from the factory position...trust me.
Oversize SBC valves are extra work and only needed IF the guides are worn. Having done this mod and this dance with a machinist, here's my line...Jim says that he does this on heads that need new guides. drilling out and pressing in new inserts costs money and usually the guide inserts aren't as good as OEM...Now a SBC valve stem is just a bit fatter than the toyota, so a quick ream leaves the OEM guides square and sized right for an SBC valve stem. Now, take advantage of the stainless option not found as affordable for the toyota, if at all. this prevents warping in the event of exhaust leaks- there is no chance of interference in the F, 2F, 3F, so when the machinist expresses concerns over shattering valves, poo-poo them, and insist on stainless. Also insist on 1.50 not 1.60 exhaust valves and 1.84" intakes...the large 1.6 exhaust valve will have the guy need to grind out the seats and install new inferior seats. by sticking with the regimen, your existing high quality seats just get opened up a bit, cleaning them in the process. new springs and hardware don't have to be fancy and are cheap. I believe it is a Ford valve stem seal that is used...don't forget to have the gally plug threaded and plugged with a real plug...HTH
 
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Alright I got the head off of the 2f today. It went pretty well, although a few of the head bolts needed a bit of coaxing to come out. The cylinders look very good. Cross hatching is visible on all of the cylinders and there are very slight marks on the 3 and 9 o'clock sides of all the cylinder walls (when viewed from the front or back), I am not concerned though because I think that is normal and you can't feel them with your fingernail. Think in terms of smudges on glass. The walls of the cylinders have a mirror finish to them which makes it hard to photograph. But here are some pictures,
Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 005.JPG Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 007.JPG Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 009.JPG Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 008.JPG Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 012.JPG
 
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More,
Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 019.JPG Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 020.JPG Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 022.JPG Jan 5th, 2016 - 2f head removal 024.JPG
Utilizing the manual focus and having the camera very close while shining a light down at an angle I was able to take this picture that shows the cylinder walls better. In the bottom right of the photo you can see the scoring marks I was talking about,
2f Cylinder walls 009.JPG
 
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What do you guys think? And why do pistons 3+4 have 35 stamped on them but the others have 10?
Edit- Here are some better pictures of the cylinders,
2f Cylinder Walls 013.JPG
2f Cylinder Walls 014.JPG
2f Cylinder Walls 015.JPG
 
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