Builds Yeti my 80 series 2fe build (1 Viewer)

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Ok, on plugs. The block is going to be hot tanked and because of that I will be replacing the freeze plugs. I know there are one or two plugs on the block that aren't really freeze plugs, but welch plugs. I remember reading that @klinetime574 did one of those once?
Anyway, my question is would you guys replace all of the plugs on the block? Just the freeze plugs? Oil galley plugs?
I am going to remove the infamous oil galley plug on the head by cyl 5 and tap/plug that hole. Are there any other holes that I should tap and plug while I am at it?
Also I know that the cam plug should be ordered through Toyota, I already took care of that.
 
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Ok, so after some searching I found the threads on the welch plugs.
2F Welch Plug
Oil pouring out the front of the block...need advice

I was looking at the block and there are two locations. One is on the back of the block, you need to remove the bell housing to get to it. The other is on the front of the motor by the timing cover. The welch plugs size is 24mm, the hole can also be tapped and a 1/2" npt plug threaded in. I think I will just get the proper sized welch plugs instead of going to the trouble of tapping the holes.
 
Good progress and updates....thx for adding links as you encounter additional needs. Keep after it!! :)
 
I have been thinking about what cam to use and I need some help from experienced people who have researched cams or have built a 2fe, because I don't really know a thing about them. @RockDoc , @Yspen , @tonkota , @Trollhole , just a few names off the top of my head.

I was originally just going to have my camshaft reground by Delta camshaft as others have and with good success. But I have emailed Delta three times with no response. I don't really want to give business to a company that can't even return an email...

I have read a bunch of the camshaft threads and it seems like my options are limited as many of the companies that offered cams no longer do. Am I missing one? What would you guys go with if you can't get a hold of Delta?

My other option is finding a local cam grinding place and having them grind it. But I am worried that if they don't have experience with these engines that they won't do it or they might wreck it. Again, I don't know a thing about this.

Another option is staying with the stock 2f cam. My concerns with this are fuel economy and premium fuel. Again, since I don't know how different cam profiles affect performance. I want to run regular fuel, and I know others with reground cams do. But will the stock camshaft require premium fuel because of the increase in compression? Also comparing a stock cam to say the delta kc859 262 duration cam, what one would get better fuel economy?

I have searched and read till can't see the screen anymore but I still don't quite understand it. Could someone please explain in layman's terms what you would go with in my situation and why?
 
I wouldn't discount Delta without calling. I found they were good to deal with when I was speaking with them. I'll likely try a stock cam first in my next 2FE, I don't think either is the wrong choice. Are you bumping the displacement or shaving much off the head? I had mine shaved to make the most of the 262* cam. I think a "stock" 2FE should run fine on regular with a stock cam.
 
Subscribed. I'm thinking if my 3FE ever gives up (that's "if") then the 2FE is the route I'll go. Except I'll probably just modify the hood instead of dealing with a body lift...
 
Subscribed. I'm thinking if my 3FE ever gives up (that's "if") then the 2FE is the route I'll go. Except I'll probably just modify the hood instead of dealing with a body lift...
Why is that? I don't think a small body lift is a hard, or bad, thing to do.
Thanks for reminding me, I was going to go measure the distance between the air intake chamber and the top of the hood to finally decide what size of body lift to go with. The 2f block is 2 1/8" taller than the 3fe. So if the distance is greater than 1 1/8" I will go with a 1" body lift, between 1 1/8" and 5/8" and I will go with a 1.5" body lift etc. etc...

EDIT- Ok, that didn't take long. I was looking for some play-doh but there was none in the house, so I just used snow. I set a clump of snow on top of the intake chamber and on top of the power steering reservoir, dropped the hood, opened up, and measured the height of the compressed snow.

The thickness of the snow on top of the intake chamber was 1 1/4".
On top of the PS it was 3/4" thick.
I guess I will go with a 1" body lift, I think it will work.
 
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.....I don't really want to give business to a company that can't even return an email...

I know it's the digital age but don't discount these guys for this reason alone. Try hard to TALK to (not just email) them, you'll be glad you did.

I want your efforts here to succeed.....so that I can possibly do the same. Stick with it!
 
OK, well seeing as how you are the second person to say this I guess I will give them a phone call tomorrow.

Next day edit:
I just got off of the phone with Delta, he seemed to know cruiser engines well. I was recommended to go with the kc859 262 grind. I asked about the 250s grind as well.
He gave me a reasonable price for grinding the cam and lifters. Once I get the cam out and inspect it I will make a final decision whether to keep it stock, or grind it.
 
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Why is that? I don't think a small body lift is a hard, or bad, thing to do.
Thanks for reminding me, I was going to go measure the distance between the air intake chamber and the top of the hood to finally decide what size of body lift to go with. The 2f block is 2 1/8" taller than the 3fe. So if the distance is greater than 1 1/8" I will go with a 1" body lift, between 1 1/8" and 5/8" and I will go with a 1.5" body lift etc. etc...

EDIT- Ok, that didn't take long. I was looking for some play-doh but there was none in the house, so I just used snow. I set a clump of snow on top of the intake chamber and on top of the power steering reservoir, dropped the hood, opened up, and measured the height of the compressed snow.

The thickness of the snow on top of the intake chamber was 1 1/4".
On top of the PS it was 3/4" thick.
I guess I will go with a 1" body lift, I think it will work.

Body lift also requires modifying shifter linkages, radiator mounts, and a couple other things that seem to me like a PITA, but I realize that tearing the whole engine out would make those seem like child's play. So, meh. Maybe I would body lift it after all.
 
Ok. Rolled the cruiser into the shop last night and began tearing into it. This morning I realized that I forgot to have the AC drained. Oops.
 
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Alright. I have made some decent progress tearing into the engine bay. A few more hours of work and I should have the 3fe out!

One thing I recommend is budgeting a lot more on your rebuild than just engine work. Because you might be like me and say, "Hmm, cheap alternator, might be a good time to do a 150A upgrade. Ooo, with the smog pump gone and everything on a bench now will be the perfect time to fab up brackets for a york OBA setup. Yikes, coolant and vacuum hoses should probably be replaced, well now is the ideal time to do it. It would be pretty embarrassing to re-install that cheap walmart battery with a freshly rebuilt engine. Those heat exchangers for hot water look pretty neat"
I could go on.
 
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Update time. I removed a bunch of accessories from the 3fe and am almost ready to pull the engine. As for the 2f, I was determined to get that distributor off. So after a bunch of pounding I finally got the sucker off.
Jan 23-24 weekend 2fe progress 016.JPG


After that I was easily able to remove the lifter cover and lifters. Removing the crank pulley nut was difficult as it was on there pretty good. I used RockDoc's trick and was able to remove it.
Jan 23-24 weekend 2fe progress 004.JPG
Jan 23-24 weekend 2fe progress 012.JPG
Jan 23-24 weekend 2fe progress 017.JPG


The cam gear looked very good and the backlash measured 2.5 thousandths of an inch.
Jan 23-24 weekend 2fe progress 015.JPG
 
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Interesting build! I'm down the road from you so feel free to give me a shout if you need an
extra pair of hands.

subscribed
 
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Metal cam gear. IIRC the cam gear in the 3FE is some kind of plastic? I seem to remember a guy who couldn't figure out why his cruiser wouldn't start, turns out the gear teeth had stripped.
 
Yeah, the 3fe cam gear is a composite material. This 2f cam is mostly metal.
Parts came in from @beno today! Speedy service and, oh yea, stickers!

I also dropped the cam and lifters off at a local cam grinding place. Talked with the fellow for a bit and decided on a profile that is very close to the delta 262 specs. I also popped into the machine shop to ask what his schedule looked like, he said once I drop it off (might be next week) I am looking at about a week. Things are coming together! I will be away this week, but work will continue on the weekend.
 
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While on vacation this week we did our Christmas gift exchange now instead of at Christmas. I got some led light strips, Amazon.com: Alpena 77703 White 24" Max LED Strip: Automotive. So it looks like my cruiser interior lighting is going to be upgraded as well as adding an under-hood light to illuminate all of that work I am going to have to be doing on my freshly rebuilt motor over the next few years....o_O
Well, I will find some reason to open the hood and use the lights, even if it is just to admire that beautiful engine.
 
Hey @RockDoc , how did your a440f mount up to your 83' 2f block? I was underneath my cruiser and noticed that there is a bracket from the 3fe bell-housing to the 3fe block. My 2f block does not have any holes to mount that bracket to, and I can see from your pictures that yours is the same as mine. Did you use a 2f bellhousing?
 

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