Thanks, I think all the late models had the flares.
The color is 1E3, Phantom Gray Pearl
It was my number one choice when I was searching for a first gen Tundra
Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to... (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter JeepinPete
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The color is 1E3, Phantom Gray Pearl
It was my number one choice when I was searching for a first gen Tundra
alia176
SILVER Star
Agree, will do and thankfully, that bulb FINALLY burned itself out after staying on for about a decade
. Jeebus, that took a long freaging while to die, right after I took this pic.
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Outsane
Supporting Vendor
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
@Broski Without Malice
Looks like the mods stepped in and I can't blame them, quite happy to drop this as it had become childish, and even dropped down to the 'taking my ball home' level so, apologies to you and other members who had probably read such immature 'bickering'.
Stay safe Richard.
Regards
Dave
Looks like the mods stepped in and I can't blame them, quite happy to drop this as it had become childish, and even dropped down to the 'taking my ball home' level so, apologies to you and other members who had probably read such immature 'bickering'.
Stay safe Richard.
Regards
Dave
I don't see any point in removing the lspv. The rear circuit needs a proportioning valve to adjust pressure to the rear brake circuit. That is why Toyota put it in the rear and it's manually adjustable via the adjustable arm. I just replaced my leaking lspv with a new one from Amazon, adjusted it, good to go...well almost. I also noticed that if I had it adjusted with too much pressure going to the rear circuit the brake pedal felt very firm, but in reality the rears were locking up first. Which may or may not be bad depending on the handling characteristics you want. I suspect those deleting the lspv and saying they can now lock up they're big tires are actually just locking up the rear brakes. If the rears lock up way too early though you'll find yourself driving on a wet or icy road, lightly apply the brakes and the rear will kick out sideways. After I replaced my lspv, and the lspv adjusted properly the pedal didn't feel right. Turned out my 30 year old brake booster was also bad. New brake boosters are not very cheap from Toyota.
As far as the ABS goes, seeing how its a 3 zone system and if 1 rear wheel looses traction both rear wheels are effected, that can only mean longer stopping distances. Mine has been disabled for a while due to an auto locker up front. I don't miss it.
The LSPV for me however is a must have. I look at it as a mechanical skid control device. The rod that is used to monitor ride height is actually a spring. As the rear of the vehicle is raised more of the front line pressure is applied to the rod verses the wheel calipers. At some point that diverted pressure will cause the load spring to deflect which will limit the pressure to the rear calipers and be percieved as a spongy pedal.
scenario 1, flat road: Your in a panic stop, the nose is down and the rear is raised and stopping is controlled with no loss of traction.
scenario 2, down hill: Your in a panic stop, nose is further down and the rear is further raised. In this scenario there is a loss of traction at the rear tires compared to scenario 1 and if the brake pressure is not compensated for this situation the rear could lock up and control is lost.
I personally think the LSPV gets a bad wrap due to people not properly dealing with it's realignment after lifting the truck. I know I didn't for the longest time and was fighting spongy brakes and bad braking for years until I realized it was from the rod bending under pressure and limiting the rear braking.
It seems that Toyota engineers put a lot of effort into designing the system and to just to toss it into the trash can is a waste.
The LSPV for me however is a must have. I look at it as a mechanical skid control device. The rod that is used to monitor ride height is actually a spring. As the rear of the vehicle is raised more of the front line pressure is applied to the rod verses the wheel calipers. At some point that diverted pressure will cause the load spring to deflect which will limit the pressure to the rear calipers and be percieved as a spongy pedal.
scenario 1, flat road: Your in a panic stop, the nose is down and the rear is raised and stopping is controlled with no loss of traction.
scenario 2, down hill: Your in a panic stop, nose is further down and the rear is further raised. In this scenario there is a loss of traction at the rear tires compared to scenario 1 and if the brake pressure is not compensated for this situation the rear could lock up and control is lost.
I personally think the LSPV gets a bad wrap due to people not properly dealing with it's realignment after lifting the truck. I know I didn't for the longest time and was fighting spongy brakes and bad braking for years until I realized it was from the rod bending under pressure and limiting the rear braking.
It seems that Toyota engineers put a lot of effort into designing the system and to just to toss it into the trash can is a waste.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Glad to see you got to grips with the whole LSPV concept, the only thing you have wrong is it has to be set up with proportioning gauges. In theory if your vehicle was stock height and with no other braking mods, then simply replacing it and putting it back where it was guided by 'witness' marks left from removing the old one you should be fine, unfortunately this is not always the case, the gauges allow the pressure to be set to the correct pressure, this allows for variations in product manufacture.
I would find a garage that has the equipment to run a test on your rear brake pressure, the 'static setting once correct will cover future variations in ride height/weight, this is why it is manually adjustable to allow the mechanic to set the pressure correctly.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
I agree with most of this however it is like pulling teeth trying to explain it to so many on MUD and other forums.
The only thing I would contest is your first paragraph.
'As far as the ABS goes, seeing how its a 3 zone system and if 1 rear wheel looses traction both rear wheels are effected, that can only mean longer stopping distances.'
To focus on the ABS for a moment, it's action to reduce stopping distance under a wheel skid condition on a slippery surface. So. if just one rear wheel losses traction under braking, then the rear section of the ABS is triggered as you say, but the result is both rear wheels being cadence braked, in other words helping to cancel out the loss of traction on the side that is skidding and reducing the braking distance as opposed to increasing it.
Regards
Dave
exactly, I have one tire on bare asphalt and one tire on a patch of ice and the tire on bare asphalt that can handle full constant brake pressure drops to what little the tire on ice can handle.
I'm not a fan of the 3 zone system.
I think you got me confused with someone else. Adjusting it to witness marks? I never did that.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
You said. "I just replaced my leaking lspv with a new one from Amazon, adjusted it, good to go...well almost. I also noticed that if I had it adjusted with too much pressure going to the rear circuit the brake pedal felt very firm, but in reality the rears were locking up first."
The first thing that caught my attention was to question why you adjusted it with too much pressure, why would you? This gave me the impression you were either following witness marks, or just estimating the correct position? I said this because you did not mention the use of gauges to set the pressure correctly, or if your vehicle is lifted or not, so I felt compelled to mention the gauges, this was more of offering advice (which you may or may not of needed), but others may well do, so given your response to my post I have to assume you did use gauges but had forgotten to mention it? Given the amount of people I see on here 'fiddling' or simply replacing the valve with a new one and not setting it correctly bothers me.
Apologies if you took it the wrong way, it seems my enthusiasm to assist others with repairs/mods and being a mechanic with my own business perhaps makes me a little 'picky'?
Regards
Dave
OK sounds good.You said. "I just replaced my leaking lspv with a new one from Amazon, adjusted it, good to go...well almost. I also noticed that if I had it adjusted with too much pressure going to the rear circuit the brake pedal felt very firm, but in reality the rears were locking up first."
The first thing that caught my attention was to question why you adjusted it with too much pressure, why would you? This gave me the impression you were either following witness marks, or just estimating the correct position? I said this because you did not mention the use of gauges to set the pressure correctly, or if your vehicle is lifted or not, so I felt compelled to mention the gauges, this was more of offering advice (which you may or may not of needed), but others may well do, so given your response to my post I have to assume you did use gauges but had forgotten to mention it? Given the amount of people I see on here 'fiddling' or simply replacing the valve with a new one and not setting it correctly bothers me.
Apologies if you took it the wrong way, it seems my enthusiasm to assist others with repairs/mods and being a mechanic with my own business perhaps makes me a little 'picky'?
Regards
Dave
alia176
SILVER Star
For quite a few of us who run a dedicated trail rig with a craptastic amount of weight in the cargo area that stays static, is the LSPV compensating for anything? Just curious.
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
Some people think it's a dynamic system...
It's a proportioning valve. So it allows you to adjust how much pressure goes to the rear brakes. You can make it understeer or oversteer depending on how much brake pressure you have it set at. Do you go on trails that are slippery because it's gravel or snowy?
probably not for a dedicated trail rig. I want it mainly for accident avoidance situations on the highway.
So, can I simply remove the ABS portion per the instructions on page 1 and leave the LSPV in place (with some adjustment for being lifted)?
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
@Jeff Elliott the routing will be different..
The rear line to the LPSV is eliminated in the original instructions.
The rear line to the LPSV is eliminated in the original instructions.
@Jeff Elliott What I have seen most people do on here when deleting the ABS is add the Wilwood manual proportioning valve which is in-line to the rear brakes. You'd want to test it out and adjust for normal driving vs towing.
I have seen that too but like the idea of having a constantly adjusting proportioning valve for the same reasons Toyota included it in the first place. If there's a way to adjust it for the lift I agree with @White Stripe I don't see a reason to delete it.
Is there anything different I need to do under the hood when deleting the ABS unit than outlined on page 1 if I want to keep it? I obviously wouldn't need to harvest the elbow to use in place of the LSPV but anything else to consider?
Thanks all
