For those that have ditched the laps and abs stuff, does the front half of the master drive the front brakes and rear half of the master drive the rear brakes?
Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jcardona1
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The closest port to the Vac booster feeds the front. The port coming straight up (and say closest to the grill) feeds the back.
In case we are keeping track here.....ditched the abs and lspv and have good, even braking.
bloc
SILVER Star
Did this a while back.. hard braking the other day with 315 KM2s got the rears howling a bit before the fronts.. 4x4labs dual swingout on the rear, stock front bumper, but no second or rear third row seats and the back was empty, so probably a bit light.
No idea what pads I have in the rear. and with less weight transfer on gravel it may be more neutral.
Still, happy with the reduced complexity and better brake feel..
No idea what pads I have in the rear. and with less weight transfer on gravel it may be more neutral.
Still, happy with the reduced complexity and better brake feel..
alia176
SILVER Star
Wow, locking up the rears - that's something I can never do!!
bloc
SILVER Star
I wouldn't call them locked.. Just getting there. And this was sun-beaten asphault like at an intersection.. Where the gravel has sunk in and it's mostly tar at the top.
But yes. I should probably do more testing with the front bumper, winch, and sleeping system installed.
I like the EBC greens on my jetta so much that I'll likely install those on both axles of the Cruiser eventually. Maybe similar pads all around will help. Maybe not?
But yes. I should probably do more testing with the front bumper, winch, and sleeping system installed.
I like the EBC greens on my jetta so much that I'll likely install those on both axles of the Cruiser eventually. Maybe similar pads all around will help. Maybe not?
Pavement test: WOW, I was not prepared for that! Before I could not imagine triggering the ABS on pavement, now with LSPV and ABS gone I can easily, at any speeds - Lock the hell out of the swampers (Q78, so around 35-36"). The gravel test showed they lock up at the same time, but need to test more as I just mashed the pedal. Thinking a gradual pressure on gravel. On pavement I mashed at about 50 MPH and damn near used both lanes to recover. I can't say if the back was coming around or anything like that, but I do not have any sway bars and my rig is set up very sponge-y. Just need to voice my opinion: If you are they type that really rely on ABS for the style of driving you do, I may not totally recommend this... If that makes any sense 
CruiseOrlando
Conveniently Enhanced
Since you removed both your sway bars, that's not a fair comparison. For me, I ditched my ABS & LSPV and brakes are MUCH better. I feel fully confident now, where before I could never get a good pedal feel, and always worried about a panic stop due to the "lack" of brakes.
alia176
SILVER Star
Good feedback, thanks for that. But, nobody can tell me that they rely on their f'ing ABS when you can't lock the wheels on dry pavement if your life dependent on it. Well, I never could anyway. Perhaps if someone relies on their ABS during the winter months, then they may not want to go this route. I'm part time so I gots no ABS anyway but that little light helps me to know when my hubs are not locked 
Pavement test: WOW, I was not prepared for that! Before I could not imagine triggering the ABS on pavement, now with LSPV and ABS gone I can easily, at any speeds - Lock the hell out of the swampers (Q78, so around 35-36"). The gravel test showed they lock up at the same time, but need to test more as I just mashed the pedal. Thinking a gradual pressure on gravel. On pavement I mashed at about 50 MPH and damn near used both lanes to recover. I can't say if the back was coming around or anything like that, but I do not have any sway bars and my rig is set up very sponge-y. Just need to voice my opinion: If you are they type that really rely on ABS for the style of driving you do, I may not totally recommend this... If that makes any sense
My stopping is WAY better without. I have no ABS / LSPV and didn't add an adjustable unit. No matter how hard I got on the brakes I could ot even come close to locking them up, and never have had the ABS even activate. Without them the truck can stop much faster, in a shorter distance, stops dead straight, and braking is predictable and controllable (assuming a calm and controlled driver). If the brakes are so spongy and under powered you cant even activate ABS then deleting it is a no-brainer, I would say this would be the point at which you should do it.
Slam on the brakes as hard as you can: ABS activates = keep it, No pulsation from ABS = remove it. These units are old now and have air in them that can't be bled out
Slam on the brakes as hard as you can: ABS activates = keep it, No pulsation from ABS = remove it. These units are old now and have air in them that can't be bled out
2+ years now on ditching both and I'd never go back to the way it was, you have total feel of the brake pedal. It will be the first thing I do when I buy another 80!
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
I had mine out on a gravel road yesterday and couldn't get them to slip at all, much less activate the ABS. Definitely going to have to look into this.
Bumping a old thread. Referring to the original post, to connect port 2 to 3 will ether of the OEM lines flex enough to be used to connect 2-3 instead of buying a new 12" line?
For those of you that have done this mod are you still happy with it?
I just replaced another set of OEM front pads that only lasted 12,000 miles. My brake system, rotors, calipers, master, lines are new or rebuilt OEM. The truck brakes nice and straight, pads wear even. It just eats front pads. I have adjusted the LSVP arm up. Even made a bracket to raise the axle end up 2-3". I am thinking maybe the valve is stuck closed?
For those of you that have done this mod are you still happy with it?
I just replaced another set of OEM front pads that only lasted 12,000 miles. My brake system, rotors, calipers, master, lines are new or rebuilt OEM. The truck brakes nice and straight, pads wear even. It just eats front pads. I have adjusted the LSVP arm up. Even made a bracket to raise the axle end up 2-3". I am thinking maybe the valve is stuck closed?
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
I removed both the LSPV and the ABS and was able to re-use existing lines for everything. The OEM lines are really high quality.
I did a test this winter. My LSPV rod is disconnected from the axle and is tied up to the frame to max out the rear brakes. On snowy roads, the ABS worked, so to speak. It sensed brake lockup, then dumped the brakes. If there was something in front of me, I would have hit it, there was no braking. I pulled the ABS fuse and tried again. I could achieve much more braking than the ABS would allow. I could also lock up all four tires at will, but it doesn't take much on snow covered roads.
Anyway, I've come to the conclusion that the calibration of the ABS unit does not work with large tires, especially in the snow.
Anyway, I've come to the conclusion that the calibration of the ABS unit does not work with large tires, especially in the snow.
Good feedback, thanks for that. But, nobody can tell me that they rely on their f'ing ABS when you can't lock the wheels on dry pavement if your life dependent on it. Well, I never could anyway. Perhaps if someone relies on their ABS during the winter months, then they may not want to go this route. I'm part time so I gots no ABS anyway but that little light helps me to know when my hubs are not locked
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Does anyone that has larger tires have different gears in the diffs? Was wondering if the larger tires with stock gears is what is making the abs suck.
I can tell you my abs will kick on if I hit a good bump and while on the brake. Suspension is pretty stiff in my truck and I really don't care for it much. But it is a bit scary when your coming up on a light, smack a bump, then suddenly have no brakes for a second. I'm thinking pretty serious about getting rid of the whole system. Lots of possibilities for that space on the DS fender well.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
my rusty old LSPV finaly gave up the goat while trying to bleed the system tonight. I will be adding my name to the "those who deleted the LSPV" list
Open for now I suppose, but I want to test it on a dirt road and have somebody watch the rear wheels to see if they're locking up separately from the front, then adjust from.
p.s. I have that tee ready for you
Should do that on wet road too.
