**I haven't tested this on the road yet since my truck is on jack stands, working on a knuckle rebuild. But I did test the system and so far no leaks**
After fighting with my rusted-to-hell LSPV and trying to adjust it, I got fed up and decided to get rid of it. Debated and bypassing it and running 50/50 but finally settled on a manual proportioning valve to give me some control. My truck would nose-dive pretty bad during braking so I knew my front brakes were doing most of the work.
I'll try to make this short and sweet. There's more than one way to skin a cat, but this is mine
Toyota brake lines are 4.75mm OD and the fittings have a M10x1.0 thread. The flare is "double flare" also called "inverted" flare. The fittings on the left are on all the misc hardware (LSPV, tees, elbows, etc). The fitting on the right is on the master cylinder and ABS unit. They will leak if interchanged (so I read).
PARTS USED:
Wilwood 260-12627. It's threaded in M10x1.0 but the ports are bubble flare, not inverted flare. More on this later.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627
Two of these 12" lines with the M10 inverted flare fittings. You should be able to find these at any local parts store
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0834_-1_-1&pt=N0834&ppt=C0066
One of these, just for the nut fittings. The tubing was not used
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AGS1/PAE308.oap?ck=Search_pae308_-1_-1&keyword=pae308
I used a small L-shaped metal bracket and attached the valve to an existing bolt on the ABS pump.
Here's the stock configuration of the lines. Start by unbolting 1, 2 and 3. 1 is the "OUT" port to the rear brakes. 3 goes underneath the MC into a tee fitting which then goes back to port #2. The other side of the tee feeds the other line to the LSPV...not sure what this one does, a bypass of sorts? Sensing line? The entire lines 2 and 3 will not be used.
The tee fitting underneath the MC. This whole thing gets scrapped. Remove it and unbolt all the ports.
Another look at the tee underneath the MC
One of the lines coming out of the tee goes down in the driver's side wheel well goes to this elbow bolted to the frame. Undo all this. Keep the elbow and cut off the bracket if you want, I did. This line running along the frame to the back of the truck will be scrapped. Leave it in place or try and fish it out.
Remove all the LSPV junk. You'll have some fun here. Cuss words are your friend. Bolt the main two lines together using the elbow we just removed from the wheel well. You can blow into the line at the wheel well to find out which line you're keeping and which one you're scrapping.
Back in the engine bay it's time to get to work. Connect one of the 12" M10 INVERTED flare lines to port #1 pictured above. As mentioned, the Wilwood valve has bubble flare ports. So you'll need to cut off the other end, use one of the nuts from the M10 BUBBLE flare line, and reflare the line for a bubble flare. I used a cheap $20 kit from a local store and it worked fine, no leaks. The newly flared line will go to the IN port of the Wilwood valve.
Now take the stock line that was connected to port #1, cut off the end and reflare like discussed above using the M10 BUBBLE flare fitting. This goes to the OUT port of the Wilwood valve.
Take the 2nd 12" M10 INVERTED flare line and connect ports #2 and #3.
And that's it! Easy right? Can't wait to get this thing back on the road and finally have some rear brakes!
Let me know if you guys have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them
After fighting with my rusted-to-hell LSPV and trying to adjust it, I got fed up and decided to get rid of it. Debated and bypassing it and running 50/50 but finally settled on a manual proportioning valve to give me some control. My truck would nose-dive pretty bad during braking so I knew my front brakes were doing most of the work.
I'll try to make this short and sweet. There's more than one way to skin a cat, but this is mine
Toyota brake lines are 4.75mm OD and the fittings have a M10x1.0 thread. The flare is "double flare" also called "inverted" flare. The fittings on the left are on all the misc hardware (LSPV, tees, elbows, etc). The fitting on the right is on the master cylinder and ABS unit. They will leak if interchanged (so I read).
PARTS USED:
Wilwood 260-12627. It's threaded in M10x1.0 but the ports are bubble flare, not inverted flare. More on this later.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627
Two of these 12" lines with the M10 inverted flare fittings. You should be able to find these at any local parts store
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0834_-1_-1&pt=N0834&ppt=C0066
One of these, just for the nut fittings. The tubing was not used
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AGS1/PAE308.oap?ck=Search_pae308_-1_-1&keyword=pae308
I used a small L-shaped metal bracket and attached the valve to an existing bolt on the ABS pump.
Here's the stock configuration of the lines. Start by unbolting 1, 2 and 3. 1 is the "OUT" port to the rear brakes. 3 goes underneath the MC into a tee fitting which then goes back to port #2. The other side of the tee feeds the other line to the LSPV...not sure what this one does, a bypass of sorts? Sensing line? The entire lines 2 and 3 will not be used.
The tee fitting underneath the MC. This whole thing gets scrapped. Remove it and unbolt all the ports.
Another look at the tee underneath the MC
One of the lines coming out of the tee goes down in the driver's side wheel well goes to this elbow bolted to the frame. Undo all this. Keep the elbow and cut off the bracket if you want, I did. This line running along the frame to the back of the truck will be scrapped. Leave it in place or try and fish it out.
Remove all the LSPV junk. You'll have some fun here. Cuss words are your friend. Bolt the main two lines together using the elbow we just removed from the wheel well. You can blow into the line at the wheel well to find out which line you're keeping and which one you're scrapping.
Back in the engine bay it's time to get to work. Connect one of the 12" M10 INVERTED flare lines to port #1 pictured above. As mentioned, the Wilwood valve has bubble flare ports. So you'll need to cut off the other end, use one of the nuts from the M10 BUBBLE flare line, and reflare the line for a bubble flare. I used a cheap $20 kit from a local store and it worked fine, no leaks. The newly flared line will go to the IN port of the Wilwood valve.
Now take the stock line that was connected to port #1, cut off the end and reflare like discussed above using the M10 BUBBLE flare fitting. This goes to the OUT port of the Wilwood valve.
Take the 2nd 12" M10 INVERTED flare line and connect ports #2 and #3.
And that's it! Easy right? Can't wait to get this thing back on the road and finally have some rear brakes!
Let me know if you guys have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them
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