Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve (2 Viewers)

[Red Merle]

my rusty old LSPV finaly gave up the goat while trying to bleed the system tonight. I will be adding my name to the "those who deleted the LSPV" list

How do you know it was the LSPV? I was bleeding my brakes yesterday after I had broken the closed system to replace a caliper and when I tried to use my pneumatic bleeder, the rear lines just kept having air bubbles. Now, it's possible that I somehow ruptured both of my rusty rear brake lines at the same time, but that doesn't seem all that likely. I happened to stumble across this thread and now I am thinking this might be my problem.

On another note, would it be feasible to just run new lines to the four calipers and delete the ABS and the LSVP at the same time if my lines are really crusty? I am just looking to improve my braking system without opening up a huge can of worms or spending a ton of money.

 

[silverhorse]

Yes, most are deleting the ABS and LSPV at the same time...

 

[SmokingRocks]

@Red Merle, I deleted both ABS and LSPV at the same time. I knew it was broken when it cracked in half and started leaking all over me after I tightened down the bleed nipple.

 

[Red Merle]

@Red Merle, I deleted both ABS and LSPV at the same time. I knew it was broken when it cracked in half and started leaking all over me after I tightened down the bleed nipple.

Alright, thanks. Once I get my head gasket project taken care of, I will dive into this brake issue and see where I end up. I am thinking I may replace the rear calipers at the same time as I am wondering if they even work, given how rusted those are too. I am leaning towards just running new lines and bypassing the LSPV and ABS at that time. I realize that there may be a bit of a safety risk of losing all braking if I do this, but I can't imagine that what I have under there now is all that safe to begin with.

I also might just take it into the dealership before I do this to see if they can just bleed the system for me if I can't find any obvious leaks. I have read there is a SST that only they have that is needed to completely bleed the system. I am not sure that will work though because right before I installed the new front caliper that led me to open the closed system in the first place, I was driving on a dirt road and I lost brake pedal pressure. I can pump them while driving, but that isn't ideal. I wonder if what happened then was something rupturing?

Oh well, by the time I am done chasing down all of these issues, there won't be much left to break

 

[b16]

Great write-up and mod! I used the factory 3-way and mounted it where the LSPV bracket used to be... I cut part of the LSPV bracket off to make a bracket for the 3-way. I also went ahead and replaced the original brake line with the (longer) NAPA 38256. This hose can be used front and rear......

Toyota Part No.: 90413-10058

How much longer is this Napa hose from the original front/rear lines? Good for a 4" lift?

 

[bigredmachine]

Great write-up and mod! I used the factory 3-way and mounted it where the LSPV bracket used to be... I cut part of the LSPV bracket off to make a bracket for the 3-way. I also went ahead and replaced the original brake line with the (longer) NAPA 38256. This hose can be used front and rear......

Toyota Part No.: 90413-10058

so will using this fitting or something similar keep abs and simply delete the lspv with no manual adjustment available.

 

[silverhorse]

b16 - its approx. 4" longer, so perfect for a lifted 80.....

bigredmachine- the fitting replaces the original LSVP it has nothing to do with the ABS . You must remove the ABS system located near the master cylinder if you want to delete it.....

 

[bigredmachine]

b16 - its approx. 4" longer, so perfect for a lifted 80.....

bigredmachine- the fitting replaces the original LSVP it has nothing to do with the ABS . You must remove the ABS system located near the master cylinder if you want to delete it.....

no I don't want to delete abs, mine actually works so no need to remove it yet. but my gas tank is out of the truck for repair and ill be doing brake lines at that time. the lspv is all rotted to hell so bypassing it will save about 175. how do you like the braking with just the t and no valve

 

[silverhorse]

bigredmachine- no I don't want to delete abs, mine actually works so no need to remove it yet. but my gas tank is out of the truck for repair and ill be doing brake lines at that time. the lspv is all rotted to hell so bypassing it will save about 175. how do you like the braking with just the t and no valve..

For me it seems to finally be getting enough pressure/fluid to the rear brakes....

 

[Comet]

I've got a new lspv from Beno that is still in the box. I'd take $100 shipped in the us. Just sayin' Bought it in 2005 and took out abs.

 

[warezdog]

Wait, you can't really delete the LSPV and leave the ABS unless you union the lines where the LSPV used to be.

 

[bigredmachine]

Wait, you can't really delete the LSPV and leave the ABS unless you union the lines where the LSPV used to be.

you can, I used the t fitting above and just needed to make a short extension for one of the lines on the frame rail. brakes have been way better since losing the lspv, just had to make a little bracket to mount the t up to

 

[lumbee1]

My brakes are crap and seem to have gotten worse after adding a bumper and spare tire to the rear. From my understanding the LSPV has two inputs and one output. The two inputs are rear pressure line and a sense line. The output goes to the rear axle. Instead of using a T-fitting, what if the rear pressure line from the MC was union'ed to the output line and the sense line was either capped or removed completely?

I sort of like the ABS. We just had a bit of an ice storm and I tested the truck with and without ABS. ABS made a massive difference. No ABS caused the truck to slip and slide in unpredictable ways. I wouldn't want to get in a panic stop situation and have the brakes lock up.

 

[Beast FJ80]

i just deleted my LSPV valve and arm replaced it with a elbow 10mx1.0 this past week will be posting a full write up on the complete ABS delete soon but i work out of town so it may take me some time to complete the job. will be using this valve and gauges for the set up. More posts coming

 

[shocktower]

What if your ABS does not work, can you just remove the LPSV and be fine ?? and just put a T instead

 

[Beast FJ80]

What if your ABS does not work, can you just remove the LPSV and be fine ?? and just put a T instead

I am using mine it this time with the LPSV bracket arm and valve laying on the garage floor and the fuse out of the ABS. Used a 10mmx1.0 elbow and one male 10mm plug in the tee under the MC ...

The one on the left

 

[Beast FJ80]

What if your ABS does not work, can you just remove the LPSV and be fine ?? and just put a T instead

I guess i didn't read you post quite right . No you don't want to replace the LSVP with just a tee . You need to abandon the return line from the LSPV valve and remove it . In its place use the elbow and then remove the same return line from the tee under your MC and put a plug it it or replace that tee with another elbow

 

[jaymar]

Ditching the ABS pump will be a cake-walk compared to the work you had to do to replace that LSPV. It will also clean up the spaghetti of brake lines under the hood. After seeing this, I am thinking of tackling it myself. I just did the ABS delete, but my brakes still suck. They need to be bleed again, but still there is a ton of brake fade. I didn't realize just how much brake line they put in our FJ80's until I saw your write-up

However, if your ABS is still working, it might not be beneficial to remove it. My ABS quit working years ago and I suspected the ABS pump had air in it. After removing it and not seeing much benefit, I am now suspecting the miles of brake line running to the LSPV & back.

In the event of a serious accident, this could well come back to haunt you. Insurers are often looking for the door – and intentional disabling of a factory installed safety device reads like a big fat exit sign. It could also provide fodder for a lawsuit, or even criminal prosecution, depending on the severity of the accident/injuries. At any rate, food for thought.

 

[lumbee1]

Best calipers

 

[lumbee1]

In the event of a serious accident, this could well come back to haunt you. Insurers are often looking for the door – and intentional disabling of a factory installed safety device reads like a big fat exit sign. It could also provide fodder for a lawsuit, or even criminal prosecution, depending on the severity of the accident/injuries. At any rate, food for thought.

I also recommend against removing the ABS pump. Panic braking without ABS on a heavy lifted vehicle is quite scary.