I see some blistering in the lower wheel well which starts from the inside and is linked to those brackets on the arch. They all seem to have it.As an aside, have you removed the vinyl covers over the rear wheel arches?
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I see some blistering in the lower wheel well which starts from the inside and is linked to those brackets on the arch. They all seem to have it.As an aside, have you removed the vinyl covers over the rear wheel arches?
I always thought oil leaks were the best way to stop rust.
I appreciate the tips on welding tho.
Matt said similar. I’ll check my flow, grind the junk down and try again.
Thank you. Like my build name I am a work in progress too.I am not a welder but I thought that looked pretty damn good. Better than I could do, of that I am certain. And certainly better than a gaping rust hole in your frame. Awesome work @NeverGiveUpYota.
That gasket sealer if unopened and in a controlled environment not close to freezing and not too hot should be good for about a year.Was back to welding frame patches but ran out of gas.
They look vastly better after improved prepped surface. Flow far more the way I’d hope to see from a gas welder. Took notes too as I went so my old lady brain doesn’t forget when there are weeks between wrenching.
So the shop had told me anaerobic gasket sealer for the freeze plugs. Then I googled and found a YouTube video of a guy saying ‘most recommend anaerobic sealer but I prefer regular sealer.’ Any one have an opinion to share? I’ve got a tube of anaerobic that’s unopened and been around for a few years. I’ve got it and honestly if folks think it’s doesn’t lose its effectiveness then I’ll go w/ it.
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Welp they’re all in so I won’t go admitting to the conditions the tube was in for the last few years.... thank you tho. Some add them dry so I think since most are only millimeters from being perfectly flat just behind the bevels, I’ll be good.That gasket sealer if unopened and in a controlled environment not close to freezing and not too hot should be good for about a year.
Tommy @tmxmotorsports...And now here I am two beers in, stretching out my nickel copper brake and vent lines next to the stock lines.
The used in good condition fuel lines from Tommy (I’ll find his mud name) are minus a bend. Must be a year difference. Anyone have any words of wisdom on them? Should I try to clean and paint?
Did I mention that this weekend I took vaca time so am giddily chuckling that while I work on my truck I’m being paid.
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I figured it was something like that. I test fit the brake line to get the final length but hadn’t w/ those. I will. Regardless I’m sure they’ll be fine.F those bends in the fuel and return line are for the transmission xmember on the 84fj60 the transmission bolts to the inside of the frame and further forward than your 60