Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (20 Viewers)

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I had my head shaved for better compression and put the Chevy valves in. It just cost me more money since then I had to use higher octane gas ever since. I wouldn’t recommend it. She won’t need valves since she just had those done. We went over all my costs, leaving out the things I thought she could do herself to save money, and that’s where the $1700 can from. I’m sure there’s things that may have been forgotten, like gaskets and whatnot, but I’m pretty sure she’ll figure it all out. It was in 2014 and I let the shop do some of my work. Not much, but enough to add significant cost. I’d say my total costs were closer $3500 after it was all said and done, without the shop building it. They did do the head tho. We all have seen what Felicity can do and she has already done pretty much everything once, except the pistons and rings. She can handle it. I never rebuilt anything before and didn’t have an FSM and mine is still running great albeit it’s only been around 15K miles put on it since then. If I can do it, she can. Regarding warranties from a shop, will they really honor their work? I suppose if something happens quickly after the build. Not much later. I wouldn’t let someone else do it. That’d take all the fun away...
 
Hello,
I just started following this thread, and I'll admit... I haven't read all 126 pages. But what I have read, leads me to believe that a 2F overhaul would be a piece of cake given everything else you've tackled so far. No doubts at all on that.

I'm in the same boat, but with a 2F that uses almost as much oil as it does fuel, but still running good and strong if I don't mind pissing people off trying to merge at freeway speeds, or traveling 2 lane mountain pass highways here in the PNW.

I'm very most likely doing a SBC swap, using the AA ranger box, stock 4spd/split case. I don't like the Marks adapter route, and for around the same price, an overdrive would be amazing with the added power of a V8.

I agree wholly with the $3500 figure, that's almost exactly what I calculated to properly overhaul my 2F. Required machine work is, well, required, and it's not cheap. Parts would be a mix of aftermarket and OEM, as appropriate. Assembly would be by me. I was a professional diesel mechanic/engine builder for a number of years, and have the knowledge and most all the tools required, and plenty comfortable doing it.

On torque wrenches, I own SnapOn, 1/4 through 3/4 drive torque wrenches. We had them calibrated once a year (costs almost as much as a new tool), and they were always out of calibration after a year of use. DON'T buy a used torque wrench. A new Harbor Freight tool out of the box is likely more accurate than a 5 year old SnapOn. Then return it for a new one after the job :)

In my brain, and pocket book, to correctly overhaul the 2F, doing most of the work myself, is going to cost roughly the same as building a SBC (or buying a GM crate engine) and Marks adapter or Ranger overdrive, assuming the fab/install is done yourself.

I love the 2F, and I love cast iron inline 6's, so I'm torn...

Just my $.02
 
don't mill for compression- thats for camaros. Chevy valves are not a problem; prolly better, but the shave job WILL require more octane. I will only ever mill for flatness, and shoot for under 8.5:1 static compression. FWIW, the ITM slugs in my mill are still keeping the smoke in their holes... as others stated, trust your machinist. but verify! always verify...
 
That’s what’s in mine. And the melling 803 cam. I did buy OEM lifters and they weren’t cheap and not in the calculation I did with Felicity. The rings i bought, on the other hand, were s***ty so I went and got a different set. Who has opinions on good rings?
 
That’s what’s in mine. And the melling 803 cam. I did buy OEM lifters and they weren’t cheap and not in the calculation I did with Felicity. The rings i bought, on the other hand, were s***ty so I went and got a different set. Who has opinions on good rings?
Hastings seems to be in the top of all I’ve read.
 
Ah right that sounds vaguely familiar
 
That’s what’s in mine. And the melling 803 cam. I did buy OEM lifters and they weren’t cheap and not in the calculation I did with Felicity. The rings i bought, on the other hand, were s***ty so I went and got a different set. Who has opinions on good rings?

What was bad about the rings? ITM rings?
 
Not ITM rings. I’ll dig thru my old receipts and boxes and figure it out.
 
So I guess this is how I’ll approach the pulling w/o the head inplace.
I saw some chain the same thickness at Tractor Supply but was overwhelmed w/ a child and worry about dogs in car. Around here people like to report you if it’s a warm day and dogs are trapped. Chuckling I have as much a hard time transitioning to having kid to not having kid. Obviously this is a chore I am not meant to rush.

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That's really going to want to bend the headbolt. What happened to the L brackets? Or were you just looking at those?
 
That's really going to want to bend the headbolt. What happened to the L brackets? Or were you just looking at those?
Was just looking at options. I can’t run out to a store because of child in toe. Those are not my new headbolts, they were the first set so no big deal if it bends some. But I’m not tied to that. I cut some 1/4” plate and drilled a hole through it to accept a shackle but unless I cut it further and weld it... I’m not sure I can trust MY welds to a 450lb (+/-) chunk of engine.
 
I used one of the water pump threaded holes and a bellhousing bolt when I pulled mine without the head on it one time
 
I used one of the water pump threaded holes and a bellhousing bolt when I pulled mine without the head on it one time
I was thinking that too. Not the bellhousing bolts but wondered about using the plate I cut to hook the chain from vertically.
So that would mean the bellhousing bolts are the same size and pitch as the WP bolts Matt? I stuck a headbolt in the engine stand wondering if the BH bolts were the same?

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If you want to use chains, I guess you need to rig something up like you’re doing.

Since you’ve got the pistons out - If you have a fabric tow strap, just drop it down cylinder # 1 and push it back up #6. Do that for a few loops and lift it out like that. Much less potential to damage anything.
 
If you want to use chains, I guess you need to rig something up like you’re doing.

Since you’ve got the pistons out - If you have a fabric tow strap, just drop it down cylinder # 1 and push it back up #6. Do that for a few loops and lift it out like that. Much less potential to damage anything.
Good idea but I have no decent fabric tow straps. I had one I found at an abandoned house that was next to a place I rented years ago. But I was a jackass and let it go w/ all my first trucks original manuals and a bunch of other stuff way cheap. Nowadays I know not to do such dumb stuff.
 
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Engine is out. I did it by myself other than a couple very helpful texting mudders.
Thankfully I figured out quickly how to use a 2x4 as a prybar so I could bring the hoist backward. I was way too small to move it on my lumpy pavement!

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She’s all tucked in for the night as I had to head out to work. Will begin complete tear down tmrw morning.
Holy crap am I exhausted. I didn’t break anything nor hurt myself. Honestly it’s a good thing I’m small because it forced me to go slow and keep checking from all sides.

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You got this :cool:
 

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