Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (4 Viewers)

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Happy Mother’s Day Felicity!!!!!
 
So close!

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This thing is a monster.

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Head off. Honestly I see not signs of a blown gasket. And I learned a good lesson about the suction the head has to the block when you don’t use a pry bar to break the seal. Bam! Popped apart like a gun going off. Laughing, I screamed and guessing the truck did too!
All looks okay but the edge of the head smacked the gasket twice making a couple ugly gouges.
I honestly can’t do everything perfect. Rarely.

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Gasket and head.

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Are you going to get the head magnafluxed to see if it’s cracked?
 
Well it’s out of my hands for a few days. Dropped it off at a machine shop I’d only spoke to a few times face to face but felt good about. I figure it’s time for a new set of eyes. They’re gonna dip, then pressure test, pull those valves, check the seats, check flatness and I’ll go from there. Couple days. What I didbt know that I wished I’d known before, I could have done a running compression test before pulling the rockets off to even better get a more definitive reading. Now I know and I’ll remember that for others. Here’s a link NL of how to do it.

He did feel from my description of the steam/smoke that that really could have just been basic warming up for the engine. He asked about coolant loss and I described how I found her low 2 quarts, so filled up prior to going less than 10 miles and then days later and finding it down another quart. He felt that could have been simply it needed to be burped but my argument is, why would it be down 3 quarts to begin with?

They plopped it down next to another Toyota but a diesel. I failed to ask what year and get a few more pics of top and bottom but still cool she’s not alone!
Noticed as I was getting to the shop that there was a masonary business nearby. Stopped after and picked up a length of granite sill for $2. Everything I’d read lead me to feel that would be a precision tool for checking flatness of the block. At $2 how could I go wrong?

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Hope it all goes well.
 
Cleaned up the piston tops after work today. Found #2 w/ two gouges detectable to my fingernail.
#4 has grey vertical scuffs detectable to my nails as well.
What’s mud say?
@Cruiserdrew?
I’ve yet to get the head back. I had a bunch of words back and forth w/ Jeff (@distributorguy) that my low compression may be that 2&5 valves are poorly seated and leaking. I imagine I’ll get in touch w/ the shop Mon or Tues.


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Annoyingly tho this evening I jump in my little Nissan, step on the clutch pedal and have it drop to the floor. The cable snapped. Woohoo. Thankfully I had that section of the fsm printed and have it pulled out in less than an hour. $18 part and hopefully it’ll be an easy fix in the next few days.

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I had the same cable break in my 1985 Tercel once! It was only like 2 years old at the time!

Those gouges in the cylinder wall are significant. But, evaluate your goals here. If you want to drive it 3-5 more years, I'd install the good, rebuilt head and drive on. Adding a quart of oil here and there is trivial. But if your goal is 20 more years of service, it's time for a complete rebuild. These Cruisers are pretty tolerant of imperfection. At least mine are.

Just for a head's up, my FJ60 doesn't burn oil, but is down on power. 65 mph is max. I drive up into the Sierra at 50 mph. I assume it needs head work. But, it serves my needs as is and I've left it alone other than a new intake/exhaust manifold. When it really needs a rebuild, it will get an LS3.

If you really want a tolerant Land Cruiser get an 80. Mine is approaching 200k, uses no oil, and runs like new. Just did a 3000 mile road trip in it.
 
Not much on the truck. I didnt contact the shop cuz I figured it was a holiday and I’d hope they weren’t working for their sake.
My neighbor helped out w/ a ride to an Advance Auto for the Nissan clutch cable but it was the wrong one. My mistake honestly for not looking at it online. Then we swung by an Autozone across the street and they had it (I had the broken one w/ me to compare) but it wouldn’t be in till later in the day. I didn’t want to ask my neighbor again on his holiday off from work... so I decided to get creative. Initially I tried to weld/fix the broken cable but that was clear pretty quick it wouldn’t happen.
Took me two tries and then I got it. I had the same thickness cable leftover from my ex who rebuilt his seaplane pontoons, the cables secured the pontoons to the wings or the wings to the frame below the body, idk. So far I’ve pumped the pedal well over 100 times and then took it to the lake. So far it holding.
I’ll pick up the good one tmrw after work to be on the safe side.
But hey, kudus to me.

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Boy Felicity looks like your up to your eyeballs in alligators lately.:hillbilly:
Nice to see a relaxing waterfront to enjoy. :cheers:
So far they don’t all bite.
 
I’ll add now... I wanted a decent straightedge that wouldn’t break my bank... found this one via Amazon, made in USA, 500+ reviews and most were good so I bought it. I like it! Solid and light.
No surprise that my intake and exhaust aren’t level, I could see it w/ my eye, but this is the plight of cruiser ownership.

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Just a quick update on the Nissan cable I made... it held all the way to work today, 11 miles.
I’m pretty stoked.
 
I’ll add (cuz I’m sure you all really want to know) and it held all the way to the Autozone in Norwich and back to Colch to grab dinner. Honestly the new one is no where near as stout (less metal, more plastic) and I’d have to swap out the anchor thing because the little crossbar for the clutch leveler would be too fat to fit.



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