Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (7 Viewers)

[Willard]

That is WAY better than those crappy slap piston compressors. Plus I bet that motor can be converted to 220V.

I have a similar unit (farm hand I think) made in the US and I have had it for 17 years. It has never let me down, I just redid the drain on it. Used a 1/4 elbow to a 1/4 pipe with a ball valve. Total cost was something 12 bucks and it is much better then the old style and I piped ti so I did not have to reach under the tank.

You made a great buy there!

 

[FJACS]

Check the nameplate on the motor for the hp, but if it runs off of a regular 120 volt circuit, it’s likely 2hp max. An electric motor of that style on 120 volts draws about 10amps per hp.

Compressor duty refers to a few things, but to me the important difference is that it is designed to start under load, i.e. kicking in to refill the tank while it’s still got pressure in it.

Good little unit. With air and a welder, you might as well open a fab shop.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

it runs off of a regular 120 volt circuit, it’s likely 2hp max.

I’ll check for sure but he adamantly said it’s a 5hp, especially when I took a pix of the old tank and also said “he had it set at around 135amps and would kick back on when the psi dropped to 90.” He had it running off his 110 in his garage too.

 

[FJACS]

It doesn’t really matter hp as long as it’s safe to run on 120 - which it sounds like it is. It’s a source of air, which I think you’ll find is very useful.

 

[Willard]

I’ll check for sure but he adamantly said it’s a 5hp, especially when I took a pix of the old tank and also said “he had it set at around 135amps and would kick back on when the psi dropped to 90.” He had it running off his 110 in his garage too.

It just may be, but only in 220V. look into that. 120v may only be 2Hp.
I know that is how mine is setup. I run on 120V and never had an issue.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Oil levels is good. Appears clean. Motor is listed as 2hp. I emailed the guy to ask why he said it wasn’t after I took a shot of the original tank label. The leak might be tough to fix? If I disconnect would the tank just lose all pressure? And I see a release pull valve... I suppose this is yet another big tool I’ll need to YouTube how to use and maintain. Ha!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I have an old Dayton set up like that. You can change the wiring around on the switch box for the motor and run on either 120 or 240. I run on the 240 side.

On yours, it draws 20 amps wired for 120. Depending on where you plug in it will be close or above the capacity of most residential circuits. It's likely all the rebuild parts for your compressor head are available. I rebuilt mine when I got it 10 years ago, and it's run like a champ since. I have had to replace the start up capacitors on the motor ($14 each)

Make sure you change out the oil in the sump of the compressor. It's easy, takes less than a quart, and good for a year or two. They say it runs cooler with synthetic compressor oil. Maybe.

 

[Infinity00]

Yes, you’ll lose pressure, that is going into the tank and reading PSI. Should be easy to maintain, not a big deal and you’ll love it. I let the all the air out of our smaller one every day and it spits disgusting looking water out but has lasted 15 years. I was recently given an 80 gallon that looks like its from WW2 but runs great.

No more hand wrenching Felicity, well, unless you want to. Drain the air and fix that leak, it’ll drive you crazy otherwise.

 

[Infinity00]

But first just run it and do your leak down if it holds pressure. Well, that’s what I’d do but you are immensely more methodical than me, and that’s a good thing.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

On yours, it draws 20 amps wired for 120. Depending on where you plug in it will be close or above the capacity of most residential circuits.

Which is why the 15 amp plug on the end of the cord is all melty.

 

[Infinity00]

On the other hand, listen to prairieswamp, I didn’t see it was all melty

 

[g-man]

The "pull release valve" is a pressure relief valve. The one with the ring on it. It's there in case you over pressurize the tank. No need to mess with it. It can be reset if it opens. There are adjustments in the black plastic box that allow you to adjust when the compressor kicks on and at what pressure you want it to cut off. DON'T take this thing completely apart there are springs under the switches and you'll never get it back together. The leak is an easy enough fix. Get some teflon tape. You may have to remove some hoses to disassemble. the big thing with more hp is that it equates to more CFM.s that allows you to use tools that eat up lots of air in CFM. Like die grinders and hvlp paint guns. They use air in the 10 to 15 cfms range. I'm guessing you'll get about 7 cfms from this compressor. Good enough to run an impact wrench or air ratchet. Just read the cfm ratings on whatever tools you get. Not sure how much cfm's you need for a leak down test but prob not much. Also you can get a replacement head for that electrical plug. Just cut the wires and connect to a new head with screws that tighten on the wires.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Which is why the 15 amp plug on the end of the cord is all melty.

So I bought the wrong replacement?

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Well - as you can read there it says 15 amps but the motor says 20 amps. The proper plug has one of the blades sideways. Issue is you need an outlet on the wall with a sideways slot. And then there's the question of whether or not the cord is heavy enough. That needs to be 12 gage or heavier.

Not saying it won't run with plug you have but it won't be correct.

 

[Gretsch]

The proper plug has one of the blades sideways.

NEMA 5-20P/R

Like this:

and this:

 

[Infinity00]

Is that a 110v? Edit: yes 125v 20amp

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

This is what’s in my garage.

 

[Infinity00]

If that is your only outlet, and it were mine, I’d buy another box to install the above NEMA 5-20P/R into. You might not be able to use both outlets at the same time but you would still have the capability to use a normal plug for a shop light or whatever, when you need it.

Luckily your garage isn’t finished so it’ll be easy to put in another outlet box. You’ll need around a 3/4” drill bit to drill a hole through your stud to pass the wire through and mount the box along the other side of the stud.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

NEMA 5-20P/R

Like this:

View attachment 1972589

and this:

View attachment 1972592

Lookiee that... a regular three prong will fit in that OR the 20 gauge prong will too, am I correct @Robert Franzke?

 

[Infinity00]

Ooh, good eye! That’d be nice, then just a direct swap