Forgive me if I’m way wrong.
The camshaft is long... the bearings get pressed onto 4 spots along the shaft so are each bearing the slightest bit different in size so as they are slid on, let’s say the most rear goes first, then 3rd, then 2nd then 1st?
Just talked to my friend who’d spotted the misalignment and he said the bearings are pressed into the block then the shaft is slid in after, that’s why @FJACS said to only do the one offender.
Aa they said might as well replace them all. I don't how you don't damage 1 and 2 trying to remove 3. Also the Toyota catalog shows at one time they had undersize bearings in case your cam needs ground. Won't know until you pull it.
Yes, put the oil pan on and see if oil is moving correctly. The other stuff you could do. Seals are cheap, bearings for cam aren’t too bad and Kurt probably has some reasonably priced mounts.
But that also means I’d need to refil the pan and I’ll be honest, I’m not gonna waste 8 qts of oil just to check.
A guy I dated said he can mill me a puller/installer from the new bearings and the guy who blasted my pan made the handle part w/ threaded rod and large washers. Also asked a local club member to ask a friend who does lots of rebuilds as well.
Found a better way with a rubber expansion plug, welding a socket to the washer on the rear of it and using a long extention or threaded rod... Diy all the way.
Or having the bearing eventually work it's way all the way out, missing the oil idiot light/gage warning then trashing the entire engine and getting left on the side of the road.
It does suck but as my friend said to me on the phone yesterday ‘you avoided massive catastrophe, this is good!’ So I’m trying to look at the bright side. At least my sense of smell warned me. I knew something was significantly wrong and it happened pretty fast.
I would probably consider getting a used motor to swap in but install your rebuilt head onto it. By the time you pull your motor out, pull it apart, diagnose it, and check to see if any oil passages are clogged, you could have you could have your rebuilt head on a used motor and installing it in the truck and probably will have spent the same amount of money either way. Kind of a toss up but something to consider. FYI a beck arnley rear main seal from rock auto I am 99% sure is the same seal toyota uses but much cheaper. While you have the motor out replace all the hard to get to gaskets and seals. Its because of problems like you are currently having which I too have experienced is why I times I wish someone would do me a favor and steal my cruiser. Pulling a motor isn't really that hard though in a fj60. Just take pics so you know how things go back together.
I would probably consider getting a used motor to swap in but install your rebuilt head onto it. By the time you pull your motor out, pull it apart, diagnose it, and check to see if any oil passages are clogged, you could have you could have your rebuilt head on a used motor and installing it in the truck and probably will have spent the same amount of money either way. Kind of a toss up but something to consider. FYI a beck arnley rear main seal from rock auto I am 99% sure is the same seal toyota uses but much cheaper. While you have the motor out replace all the hard to get to gaskets and seals. Its because of problems like you are currently having which I too have experienced is why I times I wish someone would do me a favor and steal my cruiser. Pulling a motor isn't really that hard though in a fj60. Just take pics so you know how things go back together.